So who is using an electric fuel pump for the Nailhead ? What are you using and what are your thoughts regarding your decision. Also, can I run a 600 cfm spreadbore carb on a stock rebuild 401 ? I know Nailheads like air , but mine is just stock on my hot rod project and hasn't the weight of a big factory car. I'm more into economy than power.
I think the stock CFM for a 401 is something like 585, so 600 should be fine. Where are you finding a 600 CFM spreadbore? Is it a Thermoquad? I guess my point is if you've got a spreadbore intake, I'd highly recommend a Quadrajet. Ken at Everyday Performance can build you a hybrid M4M for reasonable money, and it would drag ALOT more power out of that motor with excellent fuel economy.
Sorry. ou: I meant Square bore. I've got a brand new Holley 600 here I bought for cheap at a local swap meet.
I think, as many would agree, that if you are an economy minded person, the Quadrajet will give you better fuel economy than the square bore Holley.
Finding a Quadrajet here would not be a problem as they were fitted to local engines in the 70s. Finding a Quadrajet manifold for a Nailhead ---- no chance I'm afraid.
Ken, after many isues with lack of fuel supply, especially at high speeds (60+ mph) I converted my '64 Wildcat to an in-tank electric fuel pump. I have an older thread with the details on how to do it relatively cheap on full size '64 models. I used a Ford p/u pump. I later added a inertia activated safety switch (cuts power to pump in the event of a hard wreck) and regulator and set it at 4.5 psi to work with my 750 cfm Edelbrock. No more fuel supply issues and easy starts, even after long periods of storage.
Are you talking about this pump setup? http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?249615-64-Wildcat-intank-electric-fuel-pump-conversion&
That's the one. The setup has been trouble free for three years now. I keep a spare pump with me in case of failure since I can't run a sock filter on the pump. So far it has not been needed.
The pump is supported by the pick up tube and sits about half an inch from the bottom of the tank. Like all electric pumps there's a little noise when the engine is off and the key is on. Once it is running you don't hear anything. I've never had much luck with external electric pumps. They seem to burn up. The in tank pump is cooled by the fuel. There are now kits to do this but they cost about $500
Aussie, I see you have a 29 Buick. I have a 29 Ford Model A special coupe. Good luck with the fuel system. I did my conversion after riding home in a tow truck one too many times. I tried several rebuilt fuel pumps, new fuel lines, etc. No problems since the conversion.
This is great. I'll be doing this for sure. You are just using a regulator and no return line, correct?
On my 1929 I have a small electric pump down at the tank ( external ) I use this only for priming carb and when the thing vapour locks on a hot day. Like you, I spent too many times stuck on the side of the road in the stinking hot sun :af: So I installed an electric pump in series with the mechanical pump and now all is good. I'm stuck whether to do the same with this project or go stand alone electric. I would like to go with a pre-set pressure pump and not have to worry about a regulator. You are swaying me big time with your conversion.
Correct, I use no return line, even though my car has a pick-up assembly for it. I use the smaller hose barb connection to run my power wire to the pump (making sure to seal it off with a fuel resistent vacuum cap so fuel doesn't slosh out around the wire). I ground the pump to the pick-up flange and then a separate wire to the body/chassis. I use an inexpensive Holley (??) regulator but ran it two years without one. The regulator improves idle quality slightly as the Ford fuel pump gave about 6 psi at the carb which is a little much for an Edelbrock. Don't leave out an inertia switch to cut power to the pump in case of an accident. All cars with electric fuel pumps should have them. The last thing you want is fuel spraying everywhere due to a broken line from a hard wreck. I got mine from a mid 1990s Ford pickup at a U-Pull-It yard for $5. They are usually mounted on the firewall under the dash and have a red reset button on top. While there I also grabbed a trio of Bosch relays from a mid 1990s GM L-body to power the pump and also my air shock compressor (two seperate relays) and have them connected through a separate fuse panel with 10A and 25A fuses respectively. I wanted to use the OE fuse block but there weren't any unused fuse locations. I've never understood putting the fuel filter (OE) on the thermostat housing, even with a return line like the AC cars had. I've had zero issues with vapor lock even on triple digit afternoons when it is too hot to put the top down. :TU:
