Front End Suspension Rebuild Kits - 72 Rivi

Discussion in 'A boatload of fun' started by fullmetaljacket, Jan 4, 2020.

  1. While i'm removing the wheels and lowering my 72 Riv, i figured i would go ahead and replace the ball joints, bushings, tie-rods etc. As far as i know, everything there currently is the original so i'm sure it's pretty well worn out or rotted. Is there a preferred kit/brands that i should explore? Or are these parts a dime a dozen? I was just considering buying this kit on ebay for $219 unless you guys tell me it is junk...!-1&fits=Year:1972|Model:Riviera|Make:Buick

    Thanks for thoughts!
  2. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    Any original GM part on the car will be 10x the quality you'll get now. If its not loose don't replace it. You'll gain nothing and replace quality parts with Chinese junk. There is no need to replace everything just because there is a kit available. Your paying less than 10 bucks a piece for the parts in that kit.. what quality is possible with that price? A decent Moog tie rod is 40 bucks...

    Again, replace only what you need!
    Smartin likes this.
  3. Ok, good advice...thank you!
  4. Lucy Fair

    Lucy Fair Nailheadlova

    If you want quality balljoints use Howes, don't waste money on all this junk as436 said. Otherwise you will learn the hard way. I learned it hard way, you buy cheapest things, ship it, mount it, than have to buy quality stuff, ship it again and work it out. Crap. Like they say there is never time and money to do it right the first time but there is time and money to do it again and again....
    Just my 0.02$.
    Peace, Kacper.
  5. thanks Kacper, i'll be pulling off the wheels pretty soon and will see how things look up close. i expect you guys are right and no need to replace the quality metal parts but surely the ball joints and bushings would be rough after 48 years. I guess similar question regarding the it logical to put new brakes, rotors, pads as replacement or just replace only worn down parts?
  6. Lucy Fair

    Lucy Fair Nailheadlova

    Brakes for Boattails are limitless, You can get set of stop-tech discs from rockauto and whatever great pads you can dream of. Willwoods, Hawks or any other exotic stuff for d52 callipers...or just plain janes. I envy you here, second gen Rivs doesn't have much options.
  7. Lucy Fair

    Lucy Fair Nailheadlova

    Oh and dont forget aboit new bearings.

  8. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    Hi Kacper,
    How about bushings and bearings ? I am ready to replace mine. Any advice would be great! :)
  9. Tomahawk

    Tomahawk Gold Level Contributor

    On my '72 Riv, I just rebuilt the front end, rotor to rotor (minus pittman arm and steering box), using this kit from performance suspension technology. The original upper and lower control arm bushings were completely shot as were the stabilizer bar end links. Some (many?) will argue that you shouldn't use poly bushings because it will give a stiffer ride and perhaps squeak.

    Moog, like just about every other large-ish manufacturer, makes parts at facilities around the world, including China and Mexico, which is probably why they can sell tie rods for $18.

    I got the rotors, inner, and outer bearings from one of the box parts stores. I do not remember where I bought the center link from.

    According to the chassis manual, the stock front sway bar is 27/32".

    Because I lightened the front end with aluminum heads and intake, and by removing the a/c compressor and bracket, I found a local shop to inspect the springs and cut 1 coil off the gives it a great stance! Not the best picture but it doesn't squat in the back anymore and the wheel fills the well perfectly (235/55/17)

    With the upper control arms, make sure you keep the shims in the right place. If you buy a shim kit, you can get the toe-in and camber pretty close, but I recommend taking it to an alignment shop anyway to ensure the new components aren't prematurely worn.

    I had a lot of problems installing the lower control arms because the mounting bolt compressed the ears over time. A fellow board member (wish I could remember who because he deserves credit for this genius trick) suggested using a threaded rod with nuts and hardened washers to push them out.

    This tool to separate tie rods or ball joints is about a gazillion times better than pickle forks:
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2020
  10. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    The bushings are probably shot for sure but I would still only replace what is loose or worn. Same for the bearings and brakes. You will gain nothing by taking off good parts, throwing them away and bolting on new parts...........
  11. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    Joe, Agreed. I have done too much of that in the past on other cars.;)
  12. Tomahawk

    Tomahawk Gold Level Contributor

    I'd like to thank Bygblok again for this suggestion
    Bygblok likes this.
  13. Great info, thx ya'll!

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