Hey, I wanted to get your thoughts on front upper and lower controls arms for my 70 Stage 1: Option #1 - Press out old bushings, sandblast, power coat and press in all new bushings and ball joints. Option #2 - Buy a complete set from like NPD, OPGI or Year One? These are EDP coated with all new rubber bushings, ball joints, and shaft already installed with the . I'd prefer to rebuild (or at least need to find someone), but it seems so much easier just to buy new and save the old stuff and redo at a later date.
We use replacement control arm at work on our fleet vehicles. The original arms, in most cases,lasted 20-25 years. We only replace them if they are rusted out, otherwise, we rebuild them. Our imported replacement arms generally last 2 years. It's not that the actual arm breaks, but the ball joints and bushings fail. When you try to replace the lower ball joint, you don't need a press to install, just a few light taps with a small hammer and then we have to tack weld them in. If I were you, I would sandblast your originals and replace the bushings. If your ball joints are good, reuse them. The new parts don't last like the originals. On my 1994 Caprice wagon with 135k miles, everything is original except 1 outer tie rod. That replacement tie rod has already been replaced twice in 4 years. I'm in the process of a body off restoration on my 1986 Cutlass. I think I'm going to remove the ball joints from the arms, have the arms powder coated, and reinstall the ball joints.
Just depends on how much money you want to spend. Redoing it yourself is much cheaper than buying the whole thing new. I think I pay about $30-40 for the parts (bushing and ball joint, they are pretty cheap at AutoZone) when I redo one myself. However if the frame has sagged, then I have to replace the shaft with an offset shaft to get the front end to align, which adds cost.
Keep in mind that rebuilding them requires the tools to press out the bushings and ball joints. Autozone and Orelly rent out the tools for free WITH EXCEPTION OF THE CONTROL ARM BUSHING R&R TOOL. That I had to buy for $50 on ebay. If you are mechanically inclined, replacing each side of all items is about 30 minutes. So about 1 hour per side vs. taking off and immediately installing so you can enjoy the fight with the coil spring. Time is money too. So consider that. I just did mine along with the coils this past weekend. I'm still icing my thumb from the coil smashing it as it popped into place when installing.
I bought all new bushings and ball joints about 14 years ago (from year one) and they’ve been sitting in boxes garage. Just finally getting around to frame off restoration. I don’t have tools to press out, sand blast and press in new bushings. My thing is, I’ll have to take off and go find someone to remove all the bushings. I don’t think there is anyone reputable in my area. Then drop off for blasting and powder coating. Then get someone to install all new parts.
Yeah, might be just as easy to buy the whole set up. I have pressed them out with a ball joint press after burning out all the rubber with a blow torch, but that is time consuming and I was bored that day.
I can guarantee you that your original arms are 10x the quality of the opgi repops. I'm sure you're getting the cheapest balljoints and bushings with them too.
I've got a set of original upper & lower control arms that are straight and rust free, just need 46 years of California dust blasted off of them and a few new parts pressed in. Let me know if you're interested.
Machine shops normally charge around $10 each bushing to remove/ install. OR you can buy the press on amazon.. PS I wouldn't powder coat anything with bushing, that will be a big 'Ol mess. DL
2 things - POR 15 over clean rust/paint is an excellent alternative to powder coating and you can keep it out of the bushing holes. - EDP is not that great - just a primer to keep from rusting on the shelf. You still need to paint them. OK 3 things - There's got to be some one in NC that can replace the bushings for you.
I agree. That's why I would reuse whatever is possible and only replace parts that are bad. Even if it costs the same or even more to reuse the original arms. you'll be better off in the long run.
Yeah, the more and more I look at it, I'm better off reusing my original arms...I do have a local guy that would sandblast, I'll have to see if he has a press. If not, I've been looking at kits on Amazon (not to bad). I have POR 15 in a quart and rattle cans of POR-15 top coat which should be good. It's the logistics...Parts shipped to the house is a lot easier than trying to get out of work early to drop off parts in between kids homework and activities....But, hey, nothing like painting parts, then playing basketball with the kids in the driveway while parts are drying in the garage.
Working with coil springs is like pointing a loaded shotgun at your face. I always rent a compressor to put them back in. Not smashing anything. Piece of cake taking them out with a floor jack. The noise they making coming out puts the fear of God in you though.
I recently rebuilt my front suspension, the loaner tools you get from the parts store are generally garbage. They kinda work and they are a pain to deal with. I had better luck with a tool I cobbled together using pipe nipples, a long bolt and nut and a ton of large washers. Also lots of a rust buster spray. When I got my arms disassembled they looked like 45 year old rusty garbage. After I sandblasted them, they looked freaking AMAZING. They looked brand new. I would definitely recommend rebuilding your original ones.
Here's what one of mine looked like when done. Pulled to old ones out with a ball joint press, took rust off with a wire wheel, painted with chassis saver, and replaced bushing and ball joints.
I had the safety on. I used internal style compressor to get them compressed enough to get into the upper control arm and pop into the lower one. Then I used chain along with spindle to create barrier in case "it went off". I've done enough of them to become an "expert". Its not exactly the title I dreamed of.
