First Time to the Strip

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by '72 Skylark Custom 4bbl, Dec 6, 2019.

  1. '72 Skylark Custom 4bbl

    '72 Skylark Custom 4bbl Well-Known Member

    Hey everyone.

    So I have a '72 Lark with a freshly rebuilt 455, TH350, & 3.42 gearing.

    I'm looking to take it to the strip for my first time ever here this spring/summer. I'm looking for any advise. I've seen on here that the best way to find out the true performance & HP is to take it take it to the track.

    I have no idea how to launch, shift, etc. I don't want to look like a total fool out there. Are they pretty accepting of new people? I'm just nervous. Looking for any tips. All the info I can get will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Kyle
     
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  2. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    Ohhhhh boy, when I’m not drunk I will tell you in the morning
     
  3. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    A few tips.

    1. Video tape each run and use a notebook to keep track of things you change or experience.
    2. Don’t worry about your quarter mike time just get used to running the track.
    3. Leave the line at idle and floor it... leave it in auto and review the video to see your shift points.
    4. Only once you are comfortable down the rack you can start foot braking to increase the rpm you leave the line.
    5. label your time slips, 1.2,3 etc so you can compare the video to the slips.
    6. the trap MPH is the best way to measure the actual HP.
     
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  4. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Dont concern yourself with the light just let the green come on then go your first few times,..watch for shift points and trap rpm first
     
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  5. Stage 2 iron

    Stage 2 iron Platinum Level Contributor

    Kyle, back in the late 80s I rebuilt a 73 455 8/1/2. To 1, small valve heads , KB 118 cam , headers, 70 stage 1 carburetor, S1 fuel pump stock turbo 350 converter and transmission 70 293 posi rear. Ran G 60 street tires car went 13.67 at 101 miles an hour shifting at 5500 car would shift into third gear going through the lights.
     
  6. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    I agree, if you can’t run a 14.00 or better, we can help you tune on the board. Something would not be correct for something that strong of a combo.
     
  7. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    For your very first few trips I wouldn't even worry about performance. Get comfortable with the facilities. Know where the exits are. Get used to going from pre stage to stage beam. 1st to 2nd beams. Slow is your friend here. Your car will feel alot different than it does on the street.........I dont know why........it just does. As far as leaving the lin . Idle or low rpm footbrake enough to not bog is best to start...........actually floor the car with the bottom yellow.......if you wait for green you will be several tenths late.


    Biggest thing is stay safe while having fun.......but take the time b4 even going down the track and drive around the pits.....down the return lane to know where things are, how to get back to your pits.

    Safety has to be #1.
     
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  8. '72 Skylark Custom 4bbl

    '72 Skylark Custom 4bbl Well-Known Member

    Thanks guys!

    I forgot to add I also have a 3k stall converter from JW. I think I worry the most about just spinning the tires at launch, getting off to a good start & embarrassing myself. I won't be doing any at the track tuning. I'll just want to make some good solid runs.

    My Lark doesn't have one(I have the clock) so I suppose I should be investing in a decent tach?

    Kyle
     
  9. Stage 2 iron

    Stage 2 iron Platinum Level Contributor

    Yes, tach, Oil pressure, and water temperature essential.
     
  10. '72 Skylark Custom 4bbl

    '72 Skylark Custom 4bbl Well-Known Member

    I currently have a set of Autometer mechanical oil, volts, & water gauges.

    My 455 has 284-88H cam, stage 1 heads with mild porting, stage 1 fuel pump, stock exhaust manifolds, & an 800cfm carb redone by Ken at Everyday Performance.

    Any recommendations for a decent sized tach? Don't want big or fancy. Maybe a small Autometer that I can strap to the column?

    Kyle
     
  11. gs66

    gs66 Silver Level contributor

    You’re going to love it, no matter how quick the car is it’s great fun! Good advice above.
     
  12. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    NEVER EVER leave the line from idle with an auto trans! It is always a good idea to preload the drivetrain by brake torqueing so there is a less likely chance of breaking something.

    That zero to hero hit of the go peddle can fine a weak link in an instance! Just listen to the wise words of Sammy Hagar when he says "one foot on the brake and one on the gas"

    Your first run you don't need to have the gas peddle to the floor with your other foot on the brake, just give it enough so the drivetrain has some preload on it which would be around 1/8 to 1/4 peddle. If you have a tach then around 1,500 RPMs would be a good point.

    When the last yellow light comes on, take your foot off of the brake and steadily press the gas peddle until its all the way opened. Try not to slam the peddle to the floor, try to make the rest of the peddle travel last 1 1/2 to 2 seconds, this will help limit tire spin with street tires. If you have drag radials or slicks, then just let her rip!

    And just so you know, drag racing can be addictive!:eek::cool:
     
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  13. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    Never been able to master the gradual foot to the floor deal with street tires. I know someone who has though....he even bracket races that way....I'm either all in or not....
     
  14. PGBuick

    PGBuick Well-Known Member

    It's a blast. An inexpensive 4" or 5" Autometer tach clamped to your column is great. Don't forget tech inspection. If your car is slower than 11.50 (it is) with no slicks or sticky tires, you will need a Snell 2010 or better helmet (must be a Snell approved helmet), factory seat belts are fine, and a radiator overflow catch can or factory overflow tank. If you add sticky tires you will need a driveshaft loop and maybe wheel studs. You always race with the window up too. It is worth reading the NHRA rules that apply to your expected ET, if for no other reason than to understand the safety mindedness of the track. Once your distributor and card are fairly well tuned, with street tires you will be running mid 13's at 105, maybe better. I never broke into the 12's until I got slicks. Couple of other pieces of good advice have been given - ask questions - tell folks it's your first time - everyone will help you out. We've all been there. It helps a lot to ask about the track logistics; where and when is tech inspection, how will you know when to go to the staging lanes, watch how the lights work while others are racing, understand how to pre-stage and stage - don't be in a rush. Develop your own repeatable and consistent staging process. If you want a HP estimate, ask where the track scale is and weigh your car - you'll need that number. And yes, leave on the last yellow!
     
  15. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I hope you have Drag Radials. If you don't, it will be a very frustrating experience trying to get traction. Any healthy 455 will need them.

    You will need to experiment with leave RPM. Some converters will like you to leave off idle, others will like you to load them. When I had my switch pitch, it liked it when I foot braked it as much as I could. The 60' time will tell the story.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2019
  16. Brandon Cocola

    Brandon Cocola Well-Known Member

    So assuming you have never seen the lights at the track, there is a pre stage light, stage light followed by 3 yellows and a green then a red. You wait at the back of the water box until the guy waves you in, you would do your burn out (which you can skip for your first time). Then pull up until you light the first set of yellow pre stage bulbs, once the guy in the other lane lights the pre stage bulbs you roll toward (a couple of inches) until the stage bulbs are lit and stop. Then the yellow lights will drop and green will come on.

    Your first time I would get used to the lights and roll off the line and not worry about foot brakeing it. I would roll into the throttle until you are at full throttle and give the car a shake down making sure there is no issues with over revving or other unforeseen issues. If you feel comfortable with that next I would foot brake it and like said before about 1500 rpm the track should have some grip and then you will need to dial in your launch for how much wheel slip.

    Another tip is go to the back of the line you don't want to make a lot of people upset if you fumble the run. Not as much of an issue at a small track as a big track where the line never stops. But everyone is usually pretty good with first timers or 1000th time and still are not sure. Another tip is pick the lane with the turn off so if you forget about the guy in the other lane you don't piss him off.

    Make sure you are up to date on your safety stuff you don't want to get there and fail tech for something you can't fix. For a 13 second car on street tires it shouldn't be much.
     
  17. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    Alright boom I made it through the night, from 6pm-4am. Anyways, drag racing becomes stupidly addicting. The guys on the board can literally point at me as one of the examples. 16 passes in and I want 100 more already. It's the most fun you can have on four wheels, unless your bed has rollers.

    The advice of the guys above is spot on. I took it when I went for my first times and its sooo useful.

    I highly recommend going to the strip and watching first before racing, watch the whole process, and then bring your car the next time. It's best to get the flow of the day, the flow of traffic, and learn how everything happens before throwing your car into it. It's not super difficult, just super new to you
     
  18. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    If you aren't going to do a burnout, go around the water.

    Watch the starter. Some of them will place you in the water box in preparation for your burnout. Then they will hold their fist in the air which means wait. To signal you to actually do the burnout, they will either stick their index finger in the air and make a circle, or just give you a thumbs up. Some will even wave you to the lights once you've made enough smoke.:) It can be different depending on the starter.

    Once you want to try to get a reaction time, try leaving on the second yellow. Most times, that will get you respectable.:)
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2019
  19. '72 Skylark Custom 4bbl

    '72 Skylark Custom 4bbl Well-Known Member

    Awesome guys!

    Thanks for all of the info & tips. I’ve done a bit of “street” stuff back in the day but never any real track racing.

    I’m sure my first few times I’ll be nervous & overwhelmed but after that I should calm down & get better.

    Kyle
     
  20. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    I would put slicks on before you go. You'll need them. It's no fun spinning the first 100' and getting passed by a stock civic.. it'll help big time when you're tuning it too.
     

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