First time out.... waa waa waa waaaaaaaa !

Coan max perf approx 2100 ...it was matched by them to my combo / specs .

 

I think you may be in uncharted waters with the 2.56, but, plenty of guys running 3.08's with sub 2.0 sec 60' times. With the old motor build I could 60' at 1.85 - 1.9 all day long on street tires with the 3.08's

If you change your stall higher, its just going to shock the tires more and any slight wheelspin is going to cost you big. The Nitto's are prolly questionable now ... with a higher stall Im betting they wont hook at all.

 

The best 60' I've run with my 2.56 is a 1.88 with 235-60-15 drag radials. My last visit to the track this year, I got a 1.99 with my all-season radials at 32 PSI.

Even with a 2.56 gear, it has ALWAYS been a matter of traction, and not a lack of torque. If I had unlimited traction, it would be easy for me to do much better than 1.88.

Someday I'd like to try to borrow a big set of slicks and really pour it on out of the hole to see what I can get with a sorta-beefy 455 and my 2.56 gears.

-Bob C.

 

dont know if this has anything to do with it, but i used to run a 830 cfm quickfuel carb and i had the same problem you have at launch, thought it needed more gas but ended up finding out it needed more air, i ran it with the gs ram air cleaner but was not enough, switched over to a 780 vac advanced carb and launch is wayyyy better now, i noticed i lost miles per hour though, could easily take it to 110 - 115 in a snap on the streetsou: now with the 780 at the quarter mile highest is 98 miles an hour

 

Me getting wiped by an 11.99 117 mph Turbo Regal Sunday. I ran 13.33 at 103 on this pass.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YzvJlB3vsY

 

can you post the time slip ?


after watching the vid a few times, it looks like he put most of the distance on you in the first 60-120 feet and then you kinda kept it even.

 

With the bigger carb, the bop on take off, could it be fuel slosh?

 

Alan ..cant scan ...so here is the time slip vs the white turbo regal in the video ..... I am the car on the right

REGAL 65 SKYLARK
r/t .527 .282

60' 1.964 2.260

330 5.219 5.777

1/8 7.836 8.652

mph 94.53 84.96

1000 10.079 11.176

1/4 11.995 13.334

mph 117.54 103.92

Larry I dont know what the converter will flash to as I cant even get it to hook brake stalling it to 2000....... 1300-1500 is the most and best I have found for my best 60 ft ... as you can hear in the video at that rpm its a short shriek then mat it and it goes .....any higher it sits and spins the tires ...so I havent even thought of trying to flash it ......watch my front end...it doesnt budge a bit due to lowering springs and spring rate is my guess - 0 weight transfer ....and yes the front sway bar is currently off...

 

Gotcha ...what kind of burn out you guys do ...in the water / out of the water etc .......

 

Well I am going to try a home made cold air setup to see if part of my problems are lack of underhood clearance - air flow related ....The carb is really close to the underside of the hood......heres a few pics of the ram so far .....from what I read online you net more (if anything) just from the fresh ambient air rather than hot underhood air ... ...if it picks up a tad from ramming then so be it.....I read in a few articles for every 10 degrees reduction in air inlet temp you supposedly can gain 1% hp,,,,,again I am just doing this to get some more air above the carb to rule out my hood clearance issue.....

My ram setup is basically semi rigid 4 inch metallic segmented aluminum hose coupled to a 90 degree 4" rubber elbow behind the headlight bucket with a 4 inch to 3 inch plastic reducer poking through the metal headlight bucket. My 3 ' tall paper filter is mounted on a moroso severe drop base air cleaner bottom. The air cleaners front 1/2 butts to the hood when the hood is closed so thats my "top" - I think the rear 1/2 of the filter has maybe a 1/4 inch clearance to the hood. The air cleaner bottom is held on to the carb by a bone shaped retainer that uses the carb stud and a nut to bolt- hold it down to the air cleaner bottom. For the inlet tube I had to dremel away approximatley 1/8 from the inside of the headlight pan...I didnt touch or trim the core support itself just the flimsy little pan the headlight sits in - I didnt want to destroy the car but wanted to give it a shot etc.........if you guys want I will take some parts pics for those who care ......just let me know


heres a quote by a Pontiac engineer and his ram experience at the milford proving grounds

"Regardless, in later model year cars, the hood scoop's biggest advantage is ducting COLD AIR into the carb. The cold air will be denser and carry more oxygen per unit of volume, so you can oxidise more fuel per combustion cycle. That's why the Olds models were all called "Cold Air Induction (CAI)" rather than Ram Air. I did a test back in the summer of 1996, when working for Michigan Scentific Corp in Milford, Michigan. At the time I was an instrumentation engineer that supported various departments of the Milford Proving Grounds. Since I had access to a ProDAS data acquisition system, I outfitted my hood, air cleaner, hood scoop, and carbuerator throat inlet with tiny thermocouples. Then, in July of 1996, I took the car to Milan dragway in Milan, Michigan. The stock air cleaner in place, the outside temperature was typical summertime: Sunny and high 80's. However, while sitting in the staging lanes, the carburator throat and air cleaner housing were frying to the tune of 160+ degrees. The high temps were present all the way through the launch, eighth mile, and didnt start dropping until I was nearly completed running the quarter mile Next, I removed the stock air cleaner, and duct-taped a modified cleaner to a four-inch aluminum dryer hose which was routed to a home-made scoop on the leading edge of my lower aero-effects. The results were immediate. The hot-start problem went away, the mid-idle surging disappeared. Carb throat temperatures dropped a small amount, maybe ten degrees. However, what happened next is what was important: On startup, the air cleaner temperatures immediately began to drop, and by the time I was at the starting line, carb inlet temperatures were down to 140 degrees. By the time I hit the eighth mile, carb inlet temperatures had cooled rapidly to 120 degrees (or thereabouts) where it stayed for the remaining part of the run. I also netted a quarter-second on the run, going from 15.75 to 15.50.
So, in my case, a functional cold air induction made a difference of 40 degrees on the inlet temperature. Then, in 2000, I decided it was time to give the engine a going-over. At this point, I decided to attempt to make my stock hood more functional. So, I ripped out the factory ducting, and made my own. I made this change at the same time that I switched torque converters, so take this result for what you will: After switching from cold-air through dryer duct, to pulling ALL intake air through a much shorter and wider hood opening, I went from a 14.40 at 96 MPH to 14.04 at 101 MPH, at the track in Stanton, Michigan. I think the secret to most hood scoops is in the colder air temperatures, at least at anything less than, say, interstate speeds?? "



I will probably hit the track sat night if my other piece arrives in time ........J

 

It rained at the track tonight as I got there but the ram air functioned well-not falling apart. Driving impressions of the ram so far.........

1.) I definitely used more gas than usual driving over there and back.

2.) Car feels smoother and runs approximately 100-200 rpm less at speed ?

3.) Incredibly at 65 degrees tonight my car ran 140 degrees all the way over there and back ? I am going to have to put a thermostat back in with this ram evidently.

Not having any time to experiment with it at all before driving to the track I chickened out an blocked the inlet screen probably 40% - so these temps werent even 100% flow. I was afraid of leaning it out. It was lightly raining on the way home so I blocked it up to 70% at the screen and still the temp was super cool and the car felt "smoother" going down the turnpike. I can wait for a hotter day to pop here in the next few days to verify these results.

Now for the bad news ...something has happened to the shift pattern in my turbo 350. Either the vac modulator or vac line has screwed up or the governor is hanging up. The 1-2 , 2-3 shift at part throttle OR full throttle is happening at ~3500-4000 rpm all of a sudden ? Once it shifts into 2nd or 3rd everything is fine -no slipping etc......So this weekend I have to figure out whats wrong. :blast:

 

... or the line going to the one-way valve on the booster.

As for my burnout technique, like Larry, I heat them real good for the first pass, then I just look for smoke on the next passes. I usually angle down the side-view mirrors at the track so I can look at both sides for the smoke and verify Posi is working.

 

Thats what I am thinking too Larry ...I will get under there today ...when I got home last night I didnt have the energy....buuuuumed too, I didnt get to make a single pass. J

 

The good news ... Well the governor was stuck ...I disassembled it and now its freed up.

The bad news I decided to drop the pan as a just in case and was greeted by seriously a 16th inch of clutch material completely covering the bottom of the pan and about a dozen "square" torn up pieces of light metal in the pan....they are flimsy almost like coke can thickness ...they almost look like the size and shape of "steels" ears from the trans clutch packs but they are too flimsy - not enough thickness to be that ...any ideas what they could be ?

So I guess after all - my turbo 350 "was slipping" and thats why my car wouldnt ever 60ft all along...the best ever was a 2.0...what really sucks is I only got 4000 miles out of this rebuilt 350 trans by a "reputable" builder....so I am just going to replace it with one from someone else and hopefully have better luck........ .