I tried that first to see if the fuel pump worked. I just hooked it straight to the battery and it turned on. No fuel pressure gauge, I believe it has its own regulator and I am using the return port off the Fitech unit. I’ll check the voltage on the orange wire right now. It’s an in-line airtex pump. Thanks
Which Airtex model? (may not matter, now that I see the voltage issue). I see the voltage dropped to 5 then to 0. That might be due to the PWM and pump driver of the FiTech, or it may have "learned" incorrectly for fuel pump control/parms. Save your current config. 1. Turn the key to ON, but do not start the engine. Go to Read Cal from ECU (Main Menu) Highlight one of the back up files and press OK and it will save your current config to that slot. Then back to the Main Menu and then to the bottom and select Write Cal To ECU and then select V8 T195 (the default for V8) and it should write it, and reach 100%. Then turn off power and wait 30 seconds. Try to start the car, and report back.
If the orange wire is dead the issue lies with whatever feeds that wire. Either the internal relay fried or the computer isn't sending the signal to fire it.
No voltage on the orange wire at all. On the hand held controller I looked at the fuel pump settings during what should be prime and it used to show it go to 100% for about 5 seconds now it just says 0% all the time. not sure if that really has anything to do with the internal relay or computer not working correctly.
Unfortunately if the relay is interal and not serviceable/testable, that only confirms my original suspicions of the quality of these generic efi units. An electric fuel pump needs a standalone circuit with a real relay that can be serviced easily. This has been a common practice for over 30 years in the auto world...
Way too small.750 minimum, no vacuum secondaries. Years ago, a guy at work let me try his brand new 650 Edelbrock. Gave it back to him the next day, said good luck...
