FI Tech "Go EFI 4" Self Tuning Throttle Body Injection Install Thread

let me ask you the handheld programmer what software is it based off? ie linux,win mo,android etc..

"edit this is meant for real82it I clicked the wrong quote"

 

I need ideas to properly vent the fuel reservoir. I currently have the vent tube from the fuel command center reservoir hooked up to my "emissions tube" on the drivers side. This tube used to connect to my emissions carbon canister....but that was tossed long ago.

I discovered that this will not work. The emissions tube pressurized as the gas tank started to vent. This in turn pressurized the reservoir, my low pressure line, and then vapor locked my mechanical fuel pump (or at least this is my theory as to why my car died and my mech fuel pump temp quit working, then started working again later).

I need some ideas on how to vent this thing.

I am thinking I could run a new line from the vent line on the reservoir in my engine compartment to the vent line at the corner of the tank and tee into it. I think this would work, but don't really want to run a new line up my frame. Even if I do this, I need to figure out where to vent my old emissions line.....since it seems venting is important to the reservoir. Without my emissions canister attached it vents right by my header/brake prop valve.......not sure I love that idea.

Another redneck fix I read in the inter webs was to just drill a small hole in my "non vented" gas cap. While easy, the downside is potential gas fumes in the garage and spillage if your tank is really full.

Other ideas?




Here are the directions from the FI tech install sheet:


Command Center Vent Port - IMPORTANT
The Vent Port is a critical part of the installation and these instructions must be followed for a safe and proper operation of the system. The Command Center has a Vent Port complete with a Rollover Valve. A fuel rated hose or hard line must be routed from the Vent Port back to the fuel tank. Many vehicles are already equipped with a vent line to the tank. You can tee into the existing line if your vehicle is so equipped. DO NOT run a vent line from the Command Center to the OPEN AIR in the engine compartment or pointed to the ground or to the air cleaner. Fumes from the Vent Port are dangerous and must be properly routed. You may need to change the pipe fitting on the Command Cen- ter to suit the line diameter you use. If no existing vent line to the tank exists, you must plumb your new line to a point above the fuel level of the tank at the top or in the filler neck. Proper routing of a vent line is not an option. It is a mandatory part of the installation. If the vent is not prop- erly routed to the gas tank FiTech cannot be responsible for any fires or other issues resulting from improper vent rout- ing or failure to follow these instructions.

 

the vented fuel cap wouldn't work I wouldn't think due to the fact that the command center is what needs vented. you should just be able to vent it directly on its own vent. all you need is a check valve charcoal filter that is on new cars hooked to it if im right on this.

 

They call it a vent line, but I bet its really and overflow return line, that doubles as a vent line when ever the EFI pump is out flowing the low pressure pump so a vacuum doesn't form in the surge tank.

My vote is looking for a vented gas cap that fits.

 

oic. then a vented tank or cap will work vent the tank.

 

I contacted Holley about this EFi and they say it is not setup to handle turbos or superchargers but the 1200 HP will be out soon and it is good for boost.

 

Looks nice and clean, & still much better looking than a q-jet:grin:

 

Well, I decided to suck it up and do it the right way. I ran a new vent line from the fuel command center reservoir to my gas tank. I routed it in the frame rail following my factory fuel lines. I tee'd into my existing gas tank vent line on the drivers side of the tank. I will install a check valve (on order) in the vent line to make sure the flow can only go to gas tank and not pressurize or allow any gas liquid towards the fuel command reservoir (although I think a low prob of this ever happening)

I also discovered that I have had the wrong type of gas cap on my car for many, many years........likely since I bought it in 1989! I always thought these cars had a non vented cap on them........but apparently not. I had also removed my vapor charcoal canister and plugged the line years ago. This caused my pressurization issue. It now has a nice new shiney vented cap on it.

I believe this will fix my fuel pressure issue.....will report back after some testing this weekend.

 

I had a chance to call FI Tech today. Asked them if the vent one was also an overflow....they said no. There is a check valve that will not allow liquid out of vent. I also asked if there was any issue if somehow gas made it into the vent tube from the gas tank (because instructions say to tee into vent line) ...... They said if gas does make it into vent line and back to the fuel command reservoir, it would simply drain into the unit....no issue.

So, I think the vent line I ran to the tank is sufficient. No check valve needed (there's $10 wasted yesterday when I orders one).......I do that a lot when I get in too much of a hurry)

I will try to drive it a lot this weekend and make sure there are no further issues.

 

Well, after the 20 mile test drive today:

The good news........I have a correctly routed vent line and correct vented gas cap on the car......

The bad news.......still experiencing fuel pressure problems.(I think)...car didn't totally die on me, but did stutter and buck during wide open throttle tests. It was fine when I first tried one. Then we drove a few more miles, I tried a few more runs and had the issues.

I am back to suspecting the mechanical fuel pump. I have a spare that I will swap out tomorrow. Hope that fixes it, otherwise i will likely have to drop the tank and inspect the pick up tube.

 

Check your messages. I spoke with the Fitech guys today at PRI and they have an idea what your problem may be.

 

Thx guys for reaching out to FI Tech for me. I will be in contact next week.

I put my spare fuel pump on and started car up just fine. Idled fine. Rev'd fine. Fuel pressure rock solid at 6lbs. I decided that before I go test the fuel pressure again with a few good runs I would try to fix another issue. This may have saved my motor......Unbelievably, while troubleshooting a very small pinhole leak in my NEW aluminum radiator, car got up to temp and was idling, I noticed vapor coming out of my breather......heard water boiling off in valve cover once I shut it off.......checked my oil.......had at least one quart of coolant in my oil. UN FRIGGN BELIEVABLE! This is the second motor I have had built for this car since 2013. First one had less than 1000 miles before I discovered it was full of metal. This motor has less than 800 miles on it. I will spare you the extensive list of crap that has went wrong with this build.....but it is mind boggling. This is my 4th build and all others went reasonably well. If my first one 25 yrs ago went like this, I would have walked away from this hobby and never looked back.......

I have run a compression check and ruled out a blown head gasket. I will be doing a coolant system pressure test this weekend to see if I can narrow down the cause. My leading theory right now is that when my fan snapped off the snout of my water pump (see another post on that issue: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...n-It-will-just-throw-a-belt-WRONG!&highlight=) some type of damage may have been done to the front cover. I did inspect it pretty close when I put the new pump on, but maybe I missed something and coolant is leaking into the front cover and down into my oil pan somehow. Maybe the gasket between the front cover and engine? It may also be leaking at the intake into engine I think......just not sure yet, and not the point of this thread.

Anyway, once I get this sorted out I will be back to finishing up the fuel injection install, but right now, not sure when that will be.

 

I think when you test with cap psi you will find your problem. you can check your plugs for discoloration also, or a bore scope in the cylinders.never heard of a water pump change cause issues of coolant in oil. keep us posted, don't test over cap psi or about 15

 

FI-Tech guys said there is a check valve in the can. Under the right conditions they can stick and cause the condition you are describing. (I even sent the guy a link to this thread) They have recently changed the design and from what I saw you can pull it right out of the top of the can and drop the new one back in. Should take all of 2 minutes.

 

Pulled intake today. Failed intake gasket on passenger rear coolant port. (Fel Pro performance 1357). Per instruction from Fel pro, builder used no sealant on ports (bad decision in my opinion). Put about 1.5 gallons of coolant total into motor. Sent pics to builder. Not sure if any additional damage done to bearings. Waiting response.

 

Awesome. Thanks. I will call them tomorrow.

 

Well that sucks pond water. But there could be no harm from this. My ski boat (351 Ford)once started running rough. So started going through diagnostics and determined that #3 was not firing. Pulled the spark plug and cranked the motor to see if plug was firing. Well the plug fired but the real problem was that clear water shot out of the plug hole! Pulled the dipstick and saw the milkshake. Pulled the exhaust manifold and found that the water jacket had cracked and was pumping water into the cylinder. Pulled the head and #3 exhaust valve was so bad it would not seal (thus preventing hydro lock) and top of piston looked brand new. So what does this have to do with your problem?

When the head was being redone I started flushing the oiling system. Set up the oil priming system and used a remote filter adaptor so I can attach a hose for oil to be pumped out. Got some Seafoam and 3 gallons of oil and used the oil pump to pump this mixture through the motor. Put the thing back together with new manifolds and started it up. Been running for 10 years now. Moral of the story? There is a good chance you have no damage from what happened to your motor.

If it was my Buick would definitely take a look at a couple of bearings to be sure they are ok but expect that there could be no problems.

As far as sealant on the gasket I always use sealant around the water ports with that gasket. Don't see how it could hurt anything. Good luck and hope it gets well soon.

 

I am NOT impressed with the Felpro gaskets. I used the same ones on my Skylark when I put the engine back together a few months ago and there was coolant puddling up on TOP of the head/intake gasket surface on both sides until I dropped a few tablets of cooling system sealant in it which seemed to cure it. I have not noticed any leakage into the crank case, from the dipstick or the catch can from the crankcase vacuum system.

 

Called FI Tech yesterday. They explained that some earlier units have an issue with the check ball getting stuck in the vent system. They also said if the vent line is pressurized from the gas tank side too much the check ball can become lodged and prevent flow from the mech fuel pump. (This is what I suspected happened). They suggested I install a one way check valve in line (HA HA, I will use the one I ordered in after all!). They also suggested if the fuel pressure issue persists after that to test the check ball by inserting a 2.5 inch piece of wire into vent port. Secure it by bending end over port edge and reattach the hose. This is supposed to prevent check ball from becoming lodged. If this solves problem they said I will have to send the fuel command center back to them so they can install the new style vent tube/check ball and test it to make sure it functions properly.

I am not 100% convinced a sticky check ball is my problem, but have been wrong many times before.

I should have the car back up and running early next week. Engine builder said to put back together, change filter, flush with new oil for 15-20 mins at temp, change oil and filter again. Will check filters and strain oil to check for any signs of metal. Assuming no metal is found after my oil/flush and filter changes, I will report back in on fuel pressure issue resolution.

 

Dang, how much harder is it really to just get an EFI fuel tank in it after all these issues?! That's what I will be doing after reading all this.