FI Tech "Go EFI 4" Self Tuning Throttle Body Injection Install Thread

Discussion in 'High Tech for Old Iron' started by real82it, Nov 2, 2015.

  1. real82it

    real82it Silver Level contributor

    Hey everyone,

    As promised, I am going to do an install thread on the FI Tech TBI unit.

    8/2017: **I am in the process of moving and restoring all pics in this thread after the photobucket mess....stay tuned....
    This is a new very reasonably priced "self tuning" TBI.

    This is going on a 1972 GS

    455 bored to 462
    Block zero decked to pistons. 10.5.1 compression.
    Block girdle installed
    edelbrock heads
    edelbrock performer intake (wanted to retain original ram air cleaner so went with this)
    Heads and intake port matched and polished
    TA forged pistons
    Roller cam 580/560 248 duration 110 center.
    Comp cams pro 1.6 roller rockers
    ARP throughout
    TA high flow waterpump with aluminum radiator
    Robb MC fuel pump
    TA shortie headers
    MSD 6AL2 programmable ignition, converted HEI distributor for MSD pick up.

    I decided to go with the "Go EFI 4 - Power Adder 600 HP System" because I am running a nitrous plate system on the car. After calling and talking to them, they suggested this system based on the amount of nitrous i plan on running. I like the nitrous control the system gives me, and I also like the addition of an AC rev increase signal I get with this upgraded unit.

    Here is the description from their site:
    "The Go EFI 4 Power Adder 600HP is for the enthusiast that demands more from his system or is planning a future upgrade! This system is capable of 25 lbs of Boost right out of the box and can be used in a Blow Through Turbo or Blower application or on a single Roots style 'draw through' supercharger. You can also run a single stage of Wet Nitrous and control your A/F as well as Ignition Timing."

    I don't have any experience with any other fuel injection systems, so I have no basis of comparison to other products.

    I really like the look of the factory air cleaner and have my nitrous purge running through the air scoops, so I want to try and retain it:

    I am starting with a newer style 800cfm quadrajet (with the APT and integrated electric choke). Carb is tuned for car using a stand alone wideband A/F meter. Runs well in all RPM ranges.

    Initial impressions were very positive. Items arrived packaged very well. I read through the instructions, they seem reasonably understandable. I only found one contradiction so far, (if I should install a fuel filter pre fuel command center or not), but I will call the company and get clarification on it. I would have liked more information on the timing control functionality of the unit....but I will deal with that when I get there.....not sure if I am going to use the FI Tech control or keep my MSD 6AL2 in control at this point.


    Here are some side by side comparisons. Hard to see in the picture, but the FI Tech TB air cleaner flange surface is about 3/32nds of an inch taller than the quadrajet. Also, no throttle return spring needed now....throttle return spring is integrated into lever: FI tech dimensions:



    I started by trying to fit the fuel command center in the driver side front radiator / fender well area. I couldn't quite get it to fit where I wanted it with the factory location of the widow washer fluid container. I wanted it to fit further back in the pocket:


    After looking at it, I simply moved the location of the washer container holder back ~1/2 inch on the fender by drilling new holes. This allows everything to clear and gives me the mounting location I like.

    I moved to the throttle body mock up installation next, to check for fitment:

    I had a quadrajet nitrous plate on there before...but had luckily held onto my holley plate, so I put that one one first. The system accommodates both bolt patters, but i read that there is additional space required for the quadrajet pattern usage (may require an adapter depending on manifold) so i just swapped over to all holley.

    Now, to mock up the air cleaner to see how it will all fit under the hood......uh oh....factory quadrajet style flange air cleaner won't go down over the holley style flange on the on this seems like a good stopping point tonight. I will order in an air cleaner spacer and then continue to mock up the air cleaner:

    11.5.15 update:

    I ended up finding a Spectre 1/4 air cleaner spacer that will work perfect. You will also need a carb stud 5/16 to 1/4 adapter, unless you want to run a 5/16 stud:

    Now, everything fits great. Please note I had previously cut my foam seals down to 3/4 inch to accomodate the difference in intake and nitrous plate height. This spacer raised the assembly a little more, but it all still fit under the hood, foam seals well to hood seals, and there is not too much pressure on the air cleaner.

    Now, onto the fuel command center install:

    I made an L bracket out of some 1/8 X 2 aluminum stock I had. I also cut out a rubber pad for the bottom of the unit, since I will install with the bottom directly on the fender well/radiator support well. I did not want metal to metal vibration and wear. I could have also mounted raised a little, but didn't want to worry about it vibrating down over time and then having issues:


    Final mounting finished....time to run some lines:

    I put the lines in place to see how I will route them. I will route the low pressure line from the existing location of my regulator. The high pressure line will run under the window washer fluid container, down the fender well/fender edge, under the hydroboost unit, and over to the TB. Not sure on the vent tube routing yet.....I will hook it up to the old evac canister line I think....I just need to get under there and find it. I disconnected it ~20yrs ago :).........the instructions are insistent you must run the vent to the gas tank, otherwise stuff can explode.........

    That's all for today. I expect to finish the install this Saturday. Will update then.

    Made some progress this weekend. Finished all plumbing and tightened down everything. Ran a hard plastic emissions line I had left over from another project to my factory vent line by the inner frame rail on the drivers side. I installed my oxygen sensor here...I am running shorty TA headers with these modified TA down put it here:


    I finished most of the wiring, but since I am using the unit for nitrous and fan control, there was additional wiring and relays that needed to be installed. The system controls relays on and off using the negative relay terminal, so there is never any load going to the unit to control these things. I also had a short in my nitrous switch, so it took me awhile to track that down.

    So far, nothing really hard about the install, but it is taking me longer than expected. I read in some other threads of 2 guys doing this in 4 hours. I have about 12 hours in it so far, and still expect to have 2-3 more before I am finished.

    I also tried to shortcut the priming instructions of the fuel command center by taking the low pressure fitting off and manually putting fuel in it. Don't do this. I made a mess. I will just have to follow the priming instructions.

    11/12 Update:

    Finished all the wiring and had the first start up tonight.

    It was difficult to find where to configure the nitrous settings in the interface. You have to go into "display", then enable display of N20 and power adder, then go back and configure.

    Initial start took 5 attempts to get it to fire. I had properly primed the system per instructions, but air in the system plus required throttle adjustment prevented immediate start. Once I opened the throttle slightly with the gas pedal, it fired, but the idle was rough. I adjusted the idle screw, turned off for 30 seconds to reset the ECU, and fired again. Car would still not start without me slightly touching the throttle, but once started, idled smoothly at ~850 rpm.

    I stopped and started 3 more times, and on the third attempt it fired up on its own.

    My initial impression......there is a noticeable difference on the throttle crispness and response off idle. You can hear and feel it. In fairness, I had trouble getting my q jet idle AFR tuned where I wanted always idled a little rich at idle.

    Video of first idle - ignore the APSX FR gauge you can't read it, but the display is rock solid at 14.1 (which is where it is set at right now in software). I have a 3rd z - tronix gauge that confirms the FI tech is right.....and the APSX gauge is the one that is off. Buicks/4E37921C-788C-40D2-8413-F26EFC7A31EC.mp4

    Final install pics:

    I will post initial driving impressions and experience this weekend. I started the car again today to test my fan functionality. Car started up on the first crank, idle fluctuated a little, then smoothed out and it warmed up. Fans clicked on and off at set points I put into software. The fuel pump in the command center is very quiet and I can't hear it at idle.

    I called FI tech asking guidance on default cam selection. I was wondering on cam "3" vs "4" for my set up. They said if idle vacuum is >10, select cam 3. If <10, select 4.

    See posts later in thread about fuel line issues. Long story short.....make sure you DO NOT use their line provided with kit if it is not Russell branded. Issues with original fuel line provided.....lucky my car didn't burn to the ground. FI tech made it right though.

    Drove the car to work and back today. 20 miles round trip. I LOVE the way the car drives now. Very crisp off idle and mid range response. WOT feels compatible to carb (which is expected). 10-15mph rolling burn outs at will now. So far, this goes in the books as one of the best upgrades I have made to the car.

    Had some other problems with the car, so haven't had as much drive time as I would have liked. Problems were not related to the FI Tech unit. Since the last update I have correctly plumbed the vent tube to the gas tank and teed into a factory vent line. I learned you can't use the factory vent line that originally went to the charcoal canister because that line can become pressurized and cause issues with fuel pressure in the fuel command reservoir.

    Took the car out for another drive today. Throttle response is amazing compared to the Q jet I had on there. Car will now loose traction at any full throttle stab at 35 mph or below.....(time to buy some drag radials.) I put the replacement TB unit that FI tech sent me (due to the failed fuel line, contamination got in the original throttle body). I am amazed how fast these things learn. Within a few miles of driving and 2 full rpm full throttle runs it seems to be dialed in. I will drive some more and post about fuel mileage any Dyno results within a month or so.

    4/4/2016 update:
    Having issues with high side fuel pressure. Been having intermittent issues for 3 months....hence no Dyno trip yet. Car going dangerously lean at 4000+ rpm. Seems to be an issue with the fuel command center. See a full description in later post in this thread. Sent back to FI Tech, they sent it back to me "repaired" and I still have the same issue. Evaluating my options.........

    Decided to install a Tanks Inc EFI gas tank and pump. Ditched the fuel command center. See details on page 7 of post. Car is back up and running great. Not gonna sugar coat it.....pretty disappointed in how FI Tech handled this issue. Very poor customer service with this issue in my opinion. I now have a very nice looking paper weight (old FCC). I want to see FI Tech succeed. I want more affordable fuel injection options. I hope they get this worked out and work out the customer service issues.

    8/16: had car strand me while at Hot August Nights in Reno. Issue turned out to be a melted orange power wire that feeds the fuel pump. My 12v battery wire to unit was also showing signs of overheating. I am running a 400lph pump that is only supposed to draw 14.3 amps. When I converted to the intank pump I decided to use the original orange power wire from the FI Tech unit with an inline 15 amp fuse. Bad decision. I ended up fixing it while in Reno. Wired in a relay and cut orange wire back to good part, then used that for 12v signal to pump.

    1/17: this is the first winter I have had a fully functional car. Having issues with a cold start problem if I turn my car off before car is warmed up then I try to restart a few mins later. Once warm, it starts and runs fine. Going to play with my prime fuel and crank fuel setting in the cold temp range.

    8/18: still going strong years later. I drive the car at least once per week. No issues. Throttle response and drivability are still fantastic. Fuel mileage still great compared to the q-jet. I picked up 2-3 mpg depending on driving conditions. I was never able to tune the cold start issue completely. I played with the prime shot, crank, and after start settings a lot!! Never got it to the point that it would always start cold or hot with the turn of the key. I finally just settled with the fact that I have to prime it 3 times to get it to fire off and idle after sitting for More than 1 day. All other starting conditions are fine....just touch the key and she fires right up and idles. I still have not spent much time using the nitrous on the car with the FITECH control. Driving around town there is no opportunity. Will update when I do. I did get the car to the Dyno last year. FiTech performance was great providing good AF in all rpm and WOT ranges.

    I am still unhappy with the idle performance with the AC on. Idle is too low and car comes close to stalling at a stop in gear. Car also has a slight surge in rpm when cruising down the freeway around 2200 rpm with AC on. I have tried with and without the AC wire hooked up. Have tried with the AC wire triggered by positive and negative change in either condition. One reason I got the power adder unit was for the AC functionality. Overall, still happy with it.
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2018
  2. sriley531

    sriley531 Buckle up, this could get rough....

    Excellent! Subscribed!
  3. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Nice! Also subscribed.

    I have to ask though, why aren't you running a single plane intake? Or with a single plane the GS scoop won't work?

    If that is the case that the scoop and a S/P won't work together then it might be to your benefit to mill down the center divider a bit to help out your N02 plate?

  4. real82it

    real82it Silver Level contributor

    That is it....wanted to retain the stock air cleaner......this is the only ,and fold that does that. I have read mixed results on milling down the center or the manifold.
  5. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    I just realized that you went with the 600 HP power adder kit so you wouldn't be able to go with that big of a shot before the system would be maxed out anyway. With a S/P you would of needed the up to 1,200 HP, power adder EFI kit if you went with the bigger shot.

    I think with a dual plane the max N02 is a 150 shot so you'll probably be to the 600 HP limit with less than that if the engine is anywhere above stock. In any event it should be fun and the system should make sure the A/F ratios are spot on, can't wait to see the results.

  6. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    Looks good. For a few years I had the fuel surge tank mounted in that same spot on my car. You may want to see if you can get a 90 fitting for the low pressure "IN" so the inlet hose doesn't stick so far up to make the bend. You may have to remove the "High Out" fitting temporarily to install the 90 fitting.

    Also, for track tech two things come to mind. With the low pressure fuel hose, if it's rubber the track will likely notice it and comment on it if they are enforcing the NHRA rules on how much rubber line can be on a car. I also believe that you'll still be required to run two external throttle return springs. So if you don't install the return springs, you may want to at least bring them with you to the track. It'd suck to get there and not run because of them.

    Looks good, and look forward to the rest of the install and testing.
  7. real82it

    real82it Silver Level contributor

    I still don't understand why this system is limited on HP from nitrous. I called the company and discussed why I even needed a "power adder" system when my nitrous plate system has its own fuel supply. In my mind the TB would just adjust the A/F based on the additional fuel/nitrous mixture introduced by the plate. FI Tech was pretty adamant I needed the power adder for nitrous. Talked about air displacement, and other stuff. Once they explained the other extras that the power adder provided, and since it wasn't much of a price premium, I decided to get it. I only plan on running a 150hp shot.

    That said, I still don't understand why this system is limited to 600 horsepower with an adjustable plate nitrous system that provides it's own fuel supply....isn't that what the fuel jets that adjust the amount of fuel that enters the plate are for?
  8. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Good point, if the extra fuel is being introduced from an external source then it shouldn't matter because the NO2 makes its own O2 when ignited. If you had a S/P intake in theory you should be able to make as much HP as your NO2 kit can produce.

    Maybe they recommended the power adder kit because its easier to pull timing out when you're juicing?

  9. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise 1000+HP

    Make sure you run a 14" air cleaner top on that stock breather.

    They will flow about 400-425 HP worth of air, sealed up . Tested that one on the dyno on a 525 HP motor..

    Putting a 14" top exposes the element, and then it flows all the air you need.

    Good luck on the install.

  10. bobc455

    bobc455 Well-Known Member

    With my FI system, it can handle a "dry" nitrous shot - essentially that would require much bigger injectors than would be dictated by airflow alone. So maybe they are accounting for a dry nitrous shot and gave you bigger injectors.

    If your "power adder" is a supercharger, you will be boosting fuel pressure with a vacuum-ported fuel pressure regulator so maybe they account for that. Or for the higher air intake temps generated by boost (which can be a few hundred degrees if you don't intercool). Possibly with a supercharger they might also take extra precaution to seal up around the throttle shaft bushings so they don't leak - normally a tiny vacuum leak around the throttle shaft doesn't matter much, but maybe with boost they want to change that. Also, having a vacuum-ported fuel pressure regulator will make a big difference in your volumetric efficiency table settings, since a lot of NA people run an un-ported fuel pressure regulator (but this is pretty much required when you run boost). And you'll need a MAP sensor that accommodates more than 1bar of pressure.

    And I can think of numerous changes they would want to make to the software as well, including the timing tables (assuming that system handles timing) and acceleration enrichment and wideband O2 enrichment settings...

    On my system, I have a totally different set of tables I load when I'm going to run nitrous - even though I'm running the fuel through a completely separate fuel system. Not just for timing, but also for fan on/off settings and some other stuff too.

  11. 70purplerag

    70purplerag Silver Level contributor

    Thanks for creating this thread! This upgrade is on the top of my list to do this winter. Can you tell us about your engine build? Cam, compression, ignition etc...

  12. real82it

    real82it Silver Level contributor

    Added engine specs to beginning of thread. And thanks Jim W.....that 14 inch air cleaner is one of the first things I changed awhile back based on your suggestion.
  13. gsx678

    gsx678 Well-Known Member

  14. Centurionrider

    Centurionrider Gold Level Contributor

    Good luck. Subscribed!!!
  15. bobc455

    bobc455 Well-Known Member

    FYI - Anyone can go to "Thread tools" up top, then subscribe there without making a post :)
  16. imac61

    imac61 Well-Known Member

    I ordered one also for my 66 skylark mild 340 , cant Wat to get it
  17. real82it

    real82it Silver Level contributor

  18. real82it

    real82it Silver Level contributor

    updated my original post with progress from today....
  19. real82it

    real82it Silver Level contributor

    Updated with progress from this weekend.
  20. real82it

    real82it Silver Level contributor

    Updated initial post with first start info.

Share This Page