Fender to radiator support braces....

Discussion in 'V-8 Buick Powered Regals' started by Stg1Regal, May 22, 2013.

  1. Stg1Regal

    Stg1Regal Yep Traction Issues!:)

    Crouchmtrsports

    seen you have them mounted in your ride....

    [​IMG]

    How to have those mounted? my bars run into the radiator overflow bottle, and the windshield washer fluid bottles..

    If you got any close up pics of your install, that would help that would be great that would great!!!
     
  2. crouchmtrsports

    crouchmtrsports crouchmtrsports

    Chris
    I moved overflow to firewall & took washer bottle off. Bars won't fit with them in stock location.
    Check out pics of Joe's car. They're not on his.
     
  3. Buick

    Buick Ramin Ansari

    You can make your own, to the length you like and at the angle that suits your needs.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Stg1Regal

    Stg1Regal Yep Traction Issues!:)

    Thanks Ramin

    How did you do that? or make those?

    How did you attach them to your inner fenders?
     
  5. STAGE-2 TORQUE

    STAGE-2 TORQUE STAGE-1 Buick "494Stroker" in 2021



    My buddy "Mid-11s-Steve" has these.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=740U7Az0G3I
     
  6. Buick

    Buick Ramin Ansari

    I used electrical conduit from the hardware store. I cut it a little long, set it where I thought it would fit well, then marked where I wanted to start the flat. I then used my bench vise to crush the tube. I crushed the rear first. I then bent the rear flat for the proper angle so it would hit the core support where i wanted it. The front part I smashed at the correct angle to be parallel with the core support edge. I then trimmed the excess flat from both ends, leaving enough room for 2 self tapping bolts (really just big body/frame sheet metal screws I got off an old car). I drilled small holes in the braces and the core support and inner fender support so there was no room for slop. I used 2 bolts on each end so there was no ability for the brace to turn about its mounting axis. I painted them flat black.

    I used conduit to do my rear seat trunk cross braces too.

    I have a factory style brace installed that goes between my front frame rails just aft of the core support. I also have the 2 braces that go from each front frame rail to the front of the engine saddle, but have not installed those.
     
  7. crouchmtrsports

    crouchmtrsports crouchmtrsports

    X2 what Ramin said. You can make them or check junk yards for 80's G-body cars. The ones I've got came off a Grand prix. They had different shapes & lengths.
    I think Kirbans Performance use to sell the short ones like on the car in the video that Chris posted.
     
  8. Stg1Regal

    Stg1Regal Yep Traction Issues!:)

    Thanks for the responses Ramin and Crouch

    Yes I do have the long ones like yours Crouch....

    Found pics on how those are mounted, in a Mid 80's Cutlass.. Look's like there is a pocket in the inner fender and slot for a quicknut to go through.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Since I don't have those factory pockets...
    May make some little brackets to move/space inward a bit, both my overflow tank and my windsheild washer fluid tank. :Do No:

    Ramin , what size conduit did you use for the x bracing behind the rear seat, and how do you have mounted?
    and you should put on those lower frame braces, got them on mine ans they do help, the one that runs framerail to framerail is the "Grand Prix" brace and the two braces from the engine cradle to the outer horns where the Grand prix brace is are called "jounce Bars" .. then tie your ends of your frame rails together using a square aluminum stock boxed tube, and use the bumper mount location and it's nuts and bolts to mount it, do it both on the front and rear frame rail horns.

    Thanks again
     
  9. Buick

    Buick Ramin Ansari

    I used 1" conduit for the rear seat braces. The upper mount is a sheet-metal type screw, the lower is nut/bolt/lockwasher. Note I only flattened out one where it crosses the other.

    I was thinking I could run both the jounce-bars and the Grand Prix bar, but it looks like it's gonna be some work to do so.

    I was figuring the bumpers would act as bracing, so I had not considered tying the ends of the frame rails together. Come to think of it, the jounce bars may be better than the Grand Prix bar, since the bumpers are doing the same thing as the Grand Prix bar. Besides, who wants a Pontiac piece on their car anyway...:pp
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Stg1Regal

    Stg1Regal Yep Traction Issues!:)

    Thanks for the info Ramin

    It did and was tuff to get both of mine to work together, (the jounce and the grand prix bars) but I put the Grand Prix bar in first , then some washers to act as spacers, then added the jounce bars. Clearance was more than enough to do so.

    As for the the frame horns bars , the bumper does help, some. Because it still extends a bit out from that mounting point , its just hangs there, also the impact shocks are like car shocks and still roatate a bit in their housings when the chassis flexes. Getting that area braced up helps reduce the flex some.

    To get the chassis rigid, one needs to box in the frame rails and tie the rear crossmember into the frame better, and tie the chassis frame rails together lateraly from side to side.


    Here's a couple pics on what I mean

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    Having that G-force trans crossmember also helps ..

    This guy is dead on what I always wanted to do to brace up my frame.

    Check out these two videos for G body chassis flex

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=LOflUwwz9Dw


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiHoz9vMkJs&feature=player_embedded
     
  11. Buick

    Buick Ramin Ansari

    Good point on the bumper shocks.

    Cool vids. I knew they were meant to flex for road durability, but WOW!. I think the body helps stiffen it up more.

    The reason we're trying to reduce chassis flex is for "free ET". I think at some point, the next step would be solid body mounts, before more bracing. That's what I had on my green Regal. And then I'd have to spend more cash on other speed parts. And then a roll bar for both safety and stiffening.

    I wonder how much expensive suspension parts we could avoid if we did more stiffening?
     
  12. Stg1Regal

    Stg1Regal Yep Traction Issues!:)

    Here's a couple more done a little bit more as a bolt-in's.

    I like what he did for his version of the Jouncebars and Grand Prix bar.

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Thanks to BEN of SRD Art from www.pro-touring.com and his Pumkinator for the pics...

    I do have but not installed HR Parts and Stuff upper and lower trailing arm weld in frame braces.

    Here's a pic of TNT Raceshop's solid aluminum body mounts.

    [​IMG]

    Don't know what suspension mods one can forego , in lieu of stiffening the chassis.
    I do agree on a rollbar /cage in helping getting the chassis stiff.

    ---------- Post added at 08:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:55 AM ----------

    Or go to a Schwartz Chassis

    His chassis is completely bolt in aftermarket frame, yes its money.. but saves weight reduces chassis flex, and has 100% better front suspension geometry than the G-Body has, easier to drive and handle. In the rear tire area, the frame rails are closer together , so one can mini-tub a ride, I've seen a Monte-SS stuff 335/35/18's under his with Schwartz chassis.

    A lot can be learned from the Pro-touring guys,

    Here's a video of his chassis vs a Stock G-body Chassis.... Imagine one being used for drag racing?

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=L6OzNj1WSOo
     

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