Feel like im all over the road! Not sure where to start.

Thanks alot guys. I definatly have play in the steering whel as well. Didnt thing too much of it at first because my daily is a vw and i figured it would be alot looser. But after taking a longer highway drive now that im used to the car, i feel the play more.

I cant say much about the tire. its dryroted to hell. Im looking for a pair of cheap 15x7's and throw the good back tires in frount and the 15's with fatter tires in back.

So i should befine starting with the tie-rod boot they sell at autozone? Then move on if theres still play?

 

When you move the wheels in and out/back and forth, watch the centerlink. If the wheel moves on that side and the steering doesn't, that tie rod end is pretty much bad. Check the other side the same way, keeping in mind you have an inner and an outter tie rod on both sides, so where the movement/play is found is your immediate issue. Your car will need an alignment when finished but it is absolutely pertinent to make sure you get it close when all repairs are made. I usually do this with a grease pen and put the new one up to where the old one is, make a mark on the new one in the same spot as where the old enters the "sleeve". This will keep the overall length close enough to make it easy to align without removing it again. I also like to count the threads on both to make sure they are the exact same length, count how many threads you can see on the old on before you remove it, and make sure that is the same number you can see when the new one is in. That may get you close enough to not need an alignment for a little while. Let me know how it goes. Oh yeah, you want the entire tie rod end w/boot, not just the boot if that's what they quoted you on the phone. Shop around some and see if you can get both sides inner and outer tie rod ends. It'll be so worth it to have a tight steering car without steering wheel drift.

 

While i had the car up to fix the breaks i took a quick look at what moves.

Pretty much the whole assembly of the inner and outer tie rods, and the centerlink. Im not worried about replacing them and the work to get them on, but what should i look for in the movement to justify whether this is the whole problem? Im not sure if the play is also being allowed by the steering.

The belt to the power steering is loose, and i haven't put my new on on yet. But when i turn i get an intermittent sqeal from the steering. I attributed that to the loose belt, but could this also be a more significant problem?

 

If everything pretty much moves, replace it all (inner and outer tie rod ends and centerlink). The squeeling is likely the loose belt, and I have found the Dayco poly cogs to work exceptionally well on replacement of belts that squeel and fray even after tightening them up. Just make sure the pump doesn't leak and the pulley is straight or you may waste some money.

 

OH also, check the pitman arm. It's the arm on the opposite side of the steering box. the bolts connecting it to the frame can loosen. also if you were to hang on where it joins to the intermediate shaft and try to wiggle it up and down. It shouldn't move much. If it moves it maybe adjustable. (the one on my car when I bought it was adjustable).

They should move with the steering. If you can look under the car and have a friend turn the wheel a couple of degrees back and forth you can see where the slop is if it's there. start from the steering column to the steering box (rag joint) basically your looking everywhere 2 different parts meet. If they move separately for any more than 1/16" maybe less in some parts, that joint is bad.

The steering box is a little different. You will want the arm coming out of the bottom to move at the same time as the input shaft. again. slop is bad but it is common here to have a degree or two of slop being so old.

SEE PICTURE BELOW OF ITEMS

Good read here.
http://www.carcraft.com/projectbuil..._chevelle_front_suspension_install/index.html

 

Found this video on youtube of a bad tie rod end!:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=so0vL-ZOwY8

More vids on checking them:
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=checking+tie+rod+ends&search_type=&aq=f

I've never been a fan of youtube in the past, but I'm finding some very useful stuff on there.:TU:

 

Ill check the videos when i can get on my comp since im posting from my pda.

I need to trace back the movement to where it meets a solid part. I sat there and looked at the parts trying to tie names to what was what under there. Looking at that picture i got everything right, but if im not mistaking the "intermidiate" = centerlink?

 

yes, it maybe my terminology that's goofed up.

 

Is there another name for a pitman arm? I can't find it on the rockauto site. Its not under steering or suspension.

 

steering, idler arm.

 

Thanks, i checked it today, its nice and solid.

So im ordering inner and outer tie rods, centerlink, and tie rod adjustment sleeves. that way i can connect them and keep the alignment very close, and won't have to fight with the old ones.

 

Oh, I had one bad tie rod end. My slop was my lower ball joint and idler arm. My tie rods are original with 160k on them. Before spending a bunch of money maybe take another look at the slop, unless those joints look like that youtube video above.

 

My movement was definatly in the tie rods and centerlink. The other rods might have been a little better but the inner and centerlink connection definatly felt worse.

I really hope its nothing else since i place an order for the parts. I can't wait too long before ordering.

Meanwhile im going to hit the engine. Pull the carb and clean and get that in tip top. also get some paint in the bay to brighten things up.


Before i even get the parts i already have a question. Am i better off connecting the parts all together first, then installing them as a whole onto the car? That way i can match up the lengths of the rods, and threads before i even remove anything.

 

The only place where you will have adjustment are the tie rod ends. If you measure center to center of the tie-rods (left side and right side) seperately and acurately you will be close. The center link should be the same length but it woulden't hurt to check if it's the same. Still plan on spending between 50-100 bucks on getting the front end aligned when you have the new parts in. Unless you have the tools to do an alignment. This months car craft shows a bubble alignment tool (available at summit), and a protractor with a how-to on doing front end alignments in your garage.

Aso remember, some of the tie rod ends are left handed and these should be mounted toward the drivers side of the car. (ex. closest to the left wheel, and closest to the idler arm) depending on complete side.

I've done it with all the parts assembled (including the spindles still attatched) so you could pre-assemble everything. and then bolt it all up. but it's up to you. Don't forget to grease the new parts.

 

Parts finally all here. Might tackle the job tomorrow, or sunday.

 

I want to thank everyone that gave advice. I got the tie rods and center link in today and the difference is like night and day.

Very easy job, still need an alignment, but i matched lengths with the rods that were already on. Its very close to ideal and drivable till i get new tires and the alignment.

Only problem i had was i could not get the centerlink off of the connector to the steering. I banged on it with a hammer till i turned blue. Then i decided to pull out the sawz-all and the drill. Took longer than everything else, it was really in there good. Once it was out i bolted everything in and was all set.

Once again thanks to everyone!