Factory style hose clamps

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by AlaskaBuick, Jun 9, 2010.

  1. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Frank, that is the wrong size for our cars if that’s all he has.
     
  2. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    These?

    20180622_112401.jpg
     
  3. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    The set I got from Heartbeat City snugged up nicely and never showed any signs of giving out.
     
    Mike Jones likes this.
  4. Mike Jones

    Mike Jones Platinum Level Contributor

  5. Mike Jones

    Mike Jones Platinum Level Contributor

    I would be interested in the bypass hose clamps you have. They are the smaller tower clamps, right?
     
  6. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

  7. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    Mike, if your car is a 1970, the bypass hose clamps were spring type band clamps like the ones on fuel lines but larger. Earlier cars like my 67 GS used the Corbin type clamps there. Early 70's up I think switched to towers for the bypass. That's just from memory w/o checking. It's confusing. I had some of the 70 type, moved some, I can check if I have any more. I think Dave (copperheadgs1) may have those. I think I got the colored Corbin heater hose clamps from CARS. The problem with original clamps and heater hoses now is that a lot of the repro hoses are total crap. They are like a thin wall vinyl, not rubber, so the clamps don't hold well. There are still suppliers with the good stuff.
    Back to the Witteks...so when Wittek went out of biz' Marti of Shelby/Mustang fame bought all the stuff and recipes to tool them. I think this happened fairly recently. I'm pretty sure they make all the popular sizes. Personally, I haven't tried them yet. The best thing is, they are Made in USA to spec, so they should be good. They really don't cost much more than the crappy made towers. I think you can get them coded, too. But around mid 1970 Ford changed to a 2 wire type Wittek clamp, I think. So, I don't know if Marti dates towers later than 70. The ones Brett used are Marti made clamps.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2019
  8. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    That's correct. I tightened them with a socket and they gave me no issues.

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    Dano likes this.
  9. Mike Jones

    Mike Jones Platinum Level Contributor

    Thanks Mr. Olds. I had a long talk with Copperhead last night and he is putting everything together that I need. When I purchased the Wittek clamps for my 65 from Fusick, I had also looked at Ecklers. Ecklers Corvette will date code the clamps but the price is 25 bucks per clamp if I remember correctly.
     
  10. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    Glad Dave hooked you up Mike!
     
  11. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Small tower clamps used on the short length of hose from intake are an issue now on AC cars. The band is wider now in the new ones than the originals. This does not appear to be an issue at the heater valve connection but it is too wide at the intake manifold fitting. The band can overlap the lip on the nozzle. I found an original to use on my 71 with AC when I had it so I know they are different than what’s available. If you use the small towers on the intake get it as low as possible or it will leak. It may leak anyway. Be careful when you get the Corbin clamps from some vendors. If the send you green ones for the 3/4” heater hose don’t use them they will leak. They are too big. Correct ones are red. Smaller 5/8” hose was gold clamp. New heater core nozzles are different than GM originals and are leak prone. You may have to use a sealer on them like Indian Head. Forget removing the hose after that without cutting them. So test it first. The Corbin clamps are a nightmare to get on especially at the firewall on an AC car. There is just no room. Factory put them on before the fenders I bet. Assembly information tells you to wet outside of hose with anti freeze first to lube. Put clamps on hose first then try and push over ridge not on nozzle first. I use the specific pliers for Corbin clamps on the ears then push the bottom ring of the clamp at the same time as pushing with pliers. I use something blunt like a 6” 3/8 socket extension. Don’t skin your knuckles.
     

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