Factory A/C Install

Discussion in 'The Big Chill' started by Christopher Spouse Drew, May 22, 2018.

  1. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    Hey guys, im getting a full original a/c systems from someone this weekend and I want tips or concerns that I might face. First of all, im gonna check the parts and replace what needs to replaced. I know this person complained of no cold air out of the vents and suspects the compressor is faulty. My car is a 1971 Buick Skylark.

    Here's my questions with the main goal of functionality, I don't care about originality:

    1. Who has rebuilt the original harisson a/c compressor and can you tell me how difficult it is, what new parts I need for the rebuild(o rings, gaskets, idk?) and is it worth it or any other suggestions?
    2. I want to replace parts just because i want this a/c to be like new and don't want to rip apart shortly after install because of failed parts. I was thinking heater core, expansion valve, the compressor(rebuild or replace). So tell me more items that would be good to replace?
    3. I've been reading that people hate taking the fender off to remove blower motor or whatever. Why do people make this seem difficult? You take the hood off, remove fender, what am i missing?

    Thats all I can think of, I want to hear from those of you that have worked on these original a/c systems and hopefully help me learn from others mistakes or accidents. Thank guys in advance, this is the best forum with good people!
     
  2. I recently added factory Air to my non-AC Centurion. The AC related components came from a wrecked 74 LeSabre. I bought new vacuum actuators, vacuum lines, heater core and rebuilt the control head and VIR. I also replaced the evaporator and condenser since they were old and had been previously repaired. the refrigerant hoses were also rebuilt. I installed a new Pro6ten compressor and am very happy with the way it runs.

    Did your car originally have factory air? If not, you'll need to make firewall modifications and may have to change your water pump and engine pulleys. Cars with factory air have different engine pulleys, water pumps and larger capacity radiators to cope with the extra heat.
     
  3. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    Yes it was an original a/c car, I bought it with an aftermarket a/c system in the car that was trashed so i removed it.

    Seems like you replaced a lot. Why did you rebuild the refrigerant hoses instead of flushing them out?
     
  4. The new hose rubber is barrier type, which supposedly lessens the amount of freon leakage over time. At $35 per pound I'd like to keep the R12 inside as long as possible!
     
  5. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    Yeah I understand that
     
  6. musclecarz

    musclecarz Well-Known Member

    Are you staying with r12 or going 134a?
     
  7. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    The compressor was already converted to 134a.
     
  8. My Pro6ten was filled from the factory with oil for R134 refrigerant. I just drained it and added Ester oil for use with R12
     
  9. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Getting a 40-50 year old fender off a car is not a trivial matter. I have had a bad heater core capped off because it is going to take surgery to get my fender off. The bottom bolt on the fender to cowl has broken the caged nut loose. It just spins freely and can't be removed. I'm going to have to sheer the head off or something I'm dreading that.
     
  10. musclecarz

    musclecarz Well-Known Member

    Two very important things to not overlook if going with 134a, is to recalibrate the poa valve and use a parallel flow condenser.
     
  11. musclecarz

    musclecarz Well-Known Member

    I used to work for Classic Auto Air. Rebuilding an A6 compressor isn't very difficult. There are now youtube videos on it. One thing also to think about is that they are prone to leak from the shaft seal. They end up misting oil into the engine compartment. Pretty much all the reman units mist oil from the shaft seal. Might wanna look into an aluminum a6 replacement as they bolt right up like factory.
     
  12. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member


    I saw on this video
    starting at 14 minutes he explains that the new style double lip seal used in H and R4 series compressor can prevent slinging oil every where. What are your thoughts?) starting at 14 minutes he explains that the new style double lip seal used in H and R4 series compressor can prevent slinging oil every where. What are your thoughts?


    and you say that rebuilding an a6 is easy to do, do you mean resealing it is easy? because I'm going to open it up, and if the pistons are loose I'm going to have to rebuild it, is that easy? What am i checking for when I take the compressor apart? b

    The previous owner said it was converted to 134a but im not sure if the POA was recaliberated or not. and isn't the original condenser a parallel flow condenser?
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2018
  13. musclecarz

    musclecarz Well-Known Member

    yes I meant resealing it is easy as the video would suggest. Its been quite a number of years since I worked at CAA and they were not using double lip seals back then. I would suspect that they are now though. I too would use one. None of the remans that ive seen have used them. That the main issue ive seen with remans so might be a good idea if one just swapped one into a reman and call it a day. Remans are so dam cheap at the auto parts stores. Anything beyond just resealing and id suggest having a shop doing it As they are all spare parts on hand. Also at CAA, we would run the compressor on a stand to make sure it sucked and pumped good as well as pressure test it por leaks once it was finished. I would suggest checking out D&D auto air in San Antonio TX. Ive met the owner, been to their shop and I was very impressed at their rebuild department. Thought it was better than what we had at CAA. And they are much more affordable as well than CAA. Don't get me wrong, CAA does very good work but they are pricey. The one thing that D&D doesn't do is the cosmetics. They don't put a new sticker or the "OK CHECK" stamp on it. Of course you could do that yourself. I've recommended them to my customers who wanted a compressor rebuild and no complaints to date. As for the original condenser, its not a parallel flow. Its a tube and fin design.
     
  14. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    The reman compressors near me are the cheapest at about $140. Id rather just reseal it myself, but you made me think that the compressor should be tested before I do anything. For all i know it might in good working order, idk. I will check out D&D, I've been looking at CAA and Original Air for rebuilds.

    What are thoughts about the other parts? This is an original system, and I dont want to have to test every item or replace every item. What parts do you think dont need to be tested?
     
  15. musclecarz

    musclecarz Well-Known Member

    Unfortunately pretty much everything that will be installed and have refrigerant running through it should be tested. I restore the ac units that go on the engine-side of the firewall and you don't want to have to install all these parts only to have to remove them all over again. I have some videos of my restos on youtube as well to give you an idea of all the parts just in the ac unit.


    As far as the reman compressor price, Advance has a 25% coupon that puts their $137.99 comp at $103.50 plus tax. Free shipping if they don't have it local
     
  16. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    Yeah very true, I go to advanced all the time so i might do that. It looks like you do very good work restoring the evaporator/blower motor assembly. I might be interested in sending you the POA valve(r134a caliberation), expansion valve, and evaporator for rebuild. Can you give me a price on that?

    Can you explain the process of testing these items? Ive been wondering how to test these parts without being in the car operating.
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2018
  17. musclecarz

    musclecarz Well-Known Member

    The evap is flushed and pressure tested. I test them with nitrogen. If it tests good then I can replate the fittings if the customer wants that. The Poa valve is hooked up to a set of gauges and tested. if it passes then it can be recalibrated. If not then it needs to be cut open and rebuilt. The expansion valve is taken apart, inspected, cleaned/flushed and then replated. Here is a video I made explaining a little bit of what I do to them.
    The evap is $25 to flush/pressure test. If you want the fittings replated, its $25 per fitting(3 fitings) The poa valve is $25 to test/recalibrate. $50 extra if you want it replated. If it needs to be rebuilt, its $125. The expansion valve rebuild is $75.
     
  18. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    The functionality is what i care about right now, so repleating looks nice but not necessary for me. If the evaporator does not pass the test can it be rebuilt? or does another evap need to be bought? because a new evap is like 285 bucks, and id rather not spend that right now.
     
  19. musclecarz

    musclecarz Well-Known Member

    If it leaks its $175 for a new one. I cut the original tubes off and they are welded onto a new core.
     
  20. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    Do you have any warranty for the rebuilds?
     

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