Exhaust Smoke after start up (1971 Buick Skylark, SBB)

Now that the heads are off you can take them to your local machine shop and have them pressure tested to check for leaks if you can't visually find any cracks. GL


Derek

 

Reinspect those gaskets. They look like the really cheap set I used once.

 

The only real way to find oit if the block needs to be bored is to have it checked by a machine shop... Or buy the tools and learn how to do it. The block needs to be bare and measured at a buch of places to see if there is taper etc.

Or just give it a quick hone and get some 10 thou over rings and file fit them to the worn stock bore...

 

Rookie question...I took my heads off with the engine still in the car. I want to remove the block so I can inspect and take to machine shop.

1. Is there a safe place to attach my engine hoist to the block or should I put my heads back on and use the water pump bracket or alternator bracket holes?

2. Is it easier to remove the transmission WITH the engine, or just engine by itself?...

 

Use the head bolt holes. You should be fine. But I would get shorter bolts. No reason to put heads back on and add weight. It will be much easier with the heads off. I like to leave trans in as long as you have something to help support it (floor jack is good, then wire up)But pulling it with engine is easy with heads off. Pulling trans can be very messy as it's full of fluid and will leak out some where. That's why I suggest to leave it alone and just pull engine unbolt torque converter and leave in trans. That holds a lot of fluid also.

 

I normally leave the trans in place since it makes it easier to maneuver the engine out but thats just personal preference. Take a head bolt to the hardware store and buy a 1 inch long verson of that bolt and secure a chain on a diagonal from one side to the opposite side and then pull it out... Be sure to hold the trans up with a jack and some wood so it does not drop when you remove the engine...

 

Leaving the trans in the car especially with the heads off you should have no problem removing the engine without having to remove the hood.

I used to leave trans bolted to engine because was told "its easier that way" well they lied! MUCH easier especially when you're alone removing an engine with no one to help remove the hood! No more trans fluid spilling on the floor, no more trying to realign the hood, no more disconnecting trans linkage and reconnecting it.........etc....etc...

Like mentioned, use jack under trans when removing engine, it may have to be adjusted slightly when removing engine but no bug deal. After engine is out wire up the trans, I usually use a couple bungee cords to hold it up.

I found that if you absolutely need to remove the hood that if the hinges are left bolted to hood, there is no need to realign the hood because the hinges don't have much adjustment at all where they bolt to the fenders. Just an up or down about 1/32" adjustment after all 6 of those bolts are reinstalled. GL


Derek

 

And then when you go to drop it back in raise the trans up a bit, align the dowels between the engine and trans and then once a few bolts are started between the two lower the engine and trans till you are back on the engine mounts...