Engine Ticking on Fresh Rebuild. Please help we with questions

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by mummy68, Sep 18, 2017.

  1. mummy68

    mummy68 Silver Level contributor

    I started the engine the engine yesterday. After my 71 455 rebuild. I installed a new cam, lifters pushrods and rebuilt heads. I used the br30 break in oil. I made sure everything was well greased and oiled upon installation It starts up fine but it ticks. I only let it run for 30 seconds. This is the first time I ever rebuilt an engine so I am scared to death.

    Is it supposed to tick and then maybe go away? Did I not run it long enough?

    How long am I supposed to let it run?

    I don't want to break it and am already frustrated. Can you please help me with some answers?
     
  2. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    With only 30 seconds of run time, the ticking more than likely was the lifters not filled with oil yet?

    When first starting a fresh rebuild with a flat tappet cam you need to get the RPMs up passed 2,000. Only running it for 30 seconds you managed to wipe the assembly lube off of the cam, now when you start it the lube is already gone!

    You should prime the oil system right before you start it again so the cam at least has some oil on it at that time.

    Some lifters can take a while to fill with oil because it is thicker before it is warmed up and may tick for a couple minutes.

    A ticking noise can also be an exhaust leak.

    If the noise is more of a knock or changes into a knock, then shut it down, remove engine and find what bolts weren't tightened, repair, re-lube cam re-assemble then re-install and start over.
     
  3. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    Also verify that all your pushrods are the correct length and type. Depending on how much
    valve work was done they may not be level anymore and a few might be too short leading
    to some noise. I'd verify a full new break in process via the threads already posted on the
    forum. You are in the right direction, but 30 seconds is not enough.
    What was your oil pressure during that time? Did you prime the oil system with a drill
    before putting the distributor in? Fill us in on your process and we'll add to it here.
     
  4. mummy68

    mummy68 Silver Level contributor

    I'm going to take another crack at it tomorrow. The pump was primed. I am going to prime it again tomorrow and start the process again. The pushrods should be correct. They are the same as the original just new. The motor has been sitting for a month since the rebuild. Well let's call it refresh because only thing new on the short block were the cam and lifters and pushrods. There was some head porting.

    I realize that I didn't break in the cam and didn't have the correct gauges so I got all those and will wire them up before I start the engine again tomorrow afternoon
     
  5. 455 Powered

    455 Powered Well-Known Member

    How long did you prime it? It took memore than 5 minutes of priming to see oil at all rockers and then I went for a couple more minutes. Probably overkill but I was sure it was primed.
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    You prime a motor until you see oil pressure, that's it. Anything more is a waste. Oil will get to the rockers once the engine is running. Excessive priming just washes away assembly lube. Shawn, the engine has run already. Just start it back up once you have gauges to monitor oil pressure and temperature. If you are concerned about the ticking, check the valve train over.
     
  7. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    The 30 seconds of run time already washed away the assembly lube.

    But you're right Larry, all that's needed is to see the oil pressure came on and done, get distributor in as soon as possible to get it started right away after priming. Wiping out a cam in a fresh engine is NOT fun starting all over again, ask me how I know! The major reason I try not to mess around with flat tappet cams anymore if I can help it.

    To be fair though when those cams wiped out it was the time of the perfect storm when they changed the ZDDP content in the oil and they stopped making flat tappet lifters here in the US! Yes those 2 things happened at the same time! Just my luck to be blind sided by both of them.:(
     
  8. Rob Ross

    Rob Ross Well-Known Member

    I prime all my engines with the intake off. That way you can see if there is a problem with a lifter (too much oil bleeding). I primed an engine once (intake off) and there was a ton of air escaping around the lifters. It would stop after a short while. Restarted the priming tool and it started again. Turned out my pick up tube was leaking where it attaches to the block. Just food for thought...
     
  9. 455 Powered

    455 Powered Well-Known Member

    I used to prime til there was pressure until a guy brought me an engine he'd bought from a rebuilder. Spun bearings about 50 miles down the road. Rebuilder didn't want to warranty it because of the way it was primed. Never had any trouble before and haven't had any trouble since.
     
  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Ask JW how he primes an engine,

    http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?th...all-rockers-upon-priming.279643/#post-2305153

    (See post #5)

    http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/455-oil-pump-priming.267834/#post-2202120

    (See post #6 )
     
  11. chucknixon

    chucknixon Founders Club Member

    Had a similar problem just 2 hours ago. My 67 GS hardtop had been sitting for 30 days and when I started it today there was a LOUD ticking noise. It quieted some the longer it idled but did not quit. I was at my mechanics so I pulled it in his shop and we increased the RPM several times, still there and then I decided to go get some Rislone oil to free things up. One minute after I left the shop the ticking stopped. It was a sticking lifter and when the engine warmed up a bit and oil got to it ticking stopping. Did not put in Riso View attachment 367342 ine since pan is full of new oil but will drain a quart out and put it in.

    Agree with other folks above, start it again and let it run a few minutes to warm up at idle and ticking should stop.



    upload_2017-9-22_15-24-54.png
     
  12. YoDesigner

    YoDesigner 69 Skylark

    So how did the weekend go? Tick go away?
     
  13. mummy68

    mummy68 Silver Level contributor

    I got frustrated and put the car away for the winter. Or at least for now. The engine swap is a tedious process and takes way more time than people would lead you to believe. I am going to get back at in a couple weeks but Chuck it is the exact way that you explained it. It starts loud then dies down but doesn't go away. The car has a lot of body work coming this winter but I will get it figured out. Just need a little break
     
  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Shawn, sounds like a stuck lifter. I would get some adjustable push rods and individually adjust each valve after checking out each lifter. You may need to replace one of them.
     

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