Hey Fellas, my little 89 Mazda (work car ) 323 has about 235,000 Mi. and has decided to make a valvetrain noise. The engine config. is an inline sohc four. My question is.... if there are no lifters or pushrods on this engine what would cause a LOUD valvetrain tick? I pride myself on having a good running car but it sucks to start this thing up around people. It's embarrassing. If anyone out there might know a little about Mazdas I could certainly use your help. Yeah I know I'll sell it later but for now it's cheap transportation for the winter. The Buick now just went in to hibernation. I won't drive it in the rain and snow. Thanks Guys!!! John
The only thing attached to the cam is a rocker. Sounds like you either bent a valve, or messed up a rocker. Pop the cover and run it to see whats going on if you can. Dont quote me on that though...I'm all american...Nothing foreign in my stables :laugh: Larry (AKA olds442gm)
Well Chris...My aol account dosent work for my Olds442 name :ball:. So I decided to start a new name just for home use when I'm on AOL..When you see me on Olds442gm I'm at work. All this just because AOL dosent work like the way is should Well at least I can post again...I couldn't do this for the longest time at home. Thanks for noticing Chris :laugh: Larry (AKA olds442gm)
Sounds like you've got ALOT of clearance between the cam lobe and the follower or bucket/shim (whichever it uses). I've set the clearance on an older Mazda and a late 80's Nissan before. They are a 'solid' lifter design, with adjustable followers. Some of these late model heads have the bucket/shim style - you would need the right tools and a supply of shims to do the job in the car. If a guy had the head off of one of these cars to get a valve job - it's quite easy for the machinist to set the clearances (takes about 2.5-3hrs though). Pop the valve cover off and see if you have followers between the cam and the valve/spring. See if they have an adjusting nut/set screw on them. If they do - you're in business! You'll need a feeler gauge and basic tools to do the job. The intake clearance should be in the .006"-.008" range - the exhuast should be a little more - .008" - .010" should do it. The last one I did (Nissan) was so loose, it was embarrassing to drive! I checked clearances before I started just for giggles - alot of them had over .030" clearance!!!:eek2: Can't imagine why it was making noise!?!:Brow: After I was done, it was quite as a new car! **BTW, if your engine has a rubber timing belt - make sure it has been changed recently!! If the book says to change it every 80k - DO IT!!! Beats spending $500 on new valves, guides and a valve job - to replace all the bent/broken parts!:Smarty: Keep us posted.
Thanks Guys, the problem is fixed. The rocker arms in this little motor have the lifters in them. They sit on top of the valve ret. and spring ass. They are about the thickness of a AA battery and about 3 qtrs. of an inch long. I've never seen lifters so small. Needless to say one of them calapsed and that was what all the racket was. I replaced them all because I didn't want to be bothered with them going bad one after another. ou: I know my question was import related and that might not go over to well on this site, but...... thanks for not slicing and dicing me. :laugh: John
I can see it clearly now. Driving around my 455 in front and the rear wheels off the ground. Guess 400Lbs. in the trunk and wheelie bars up front will solve that. I'll have to ponder that thought. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: John
Ahh Bennihanna! Nothin' like cookin' rice on the street with some good 'ol American muscle! That's called edumucating folks, ya' know!p Seriously, good to hear that you're problem was found and corrected. This site rocks for unconditional volunteering of tech info.
