Dam so if you dont get power windos you didnt get the delux smokers package? 5 ashtrays and 4 lighters. Smokes 5 comfortably. Nice for tbe drive in movie.
Even if your car doesn't have PW or cigarette lighters in the rear ash trays the wiring is still in the harness at these points . It just isn't used .
The helmet will give you cancer in Ca. Adam, does the '72 use a resistance grid in the glass or a blower for warm cabin air? Either one should be more than sufficient for what you need. BTW, a 20ga. wire is like for telephone service; its small. If you really want to find out what its about, put a potentiometer (a 200 watt dimmer switch will suffice) with an ammeter to ground and see when the fuse goes. If you go 100% and the wire gets warm its not fused (which I doubt). Smokes 5 comfortably. Nice for the drive in movie. GM lighters are a perfect fit to the top of a 5/8" brass bowl for inconspicuous lighting as well.
He could also wire a relay inline and drive it off of a switched power wire. It's not really difficult to do that and it gets rid of any concern of power drain with the ignition off.
I prefer solid fuel rocket motors to hydrogen peroxide. Only problem is once ya light them off theres no way to shut them down. Still way safer though.
Yep. I have paperwork with so many ways to wire relays that it's crazy. You can do a lot of things with relays.
I've had the rear trim and seats out a few times. I've never seen any cables in the back. The '72 used a blower rather than a grid. The unit that I am looking at fitting has a switch built into it, so that should be ok even if it is permanent live. Thanks again for the help guys. Once I have her out of storage (glad she is there with this storm raging!) I will look what is available again. On my battery somebody has already spliced a cable in to the positive but then just not used it at some point. You can see it in my video here (blue cable with yellow connector)
Careful with that ax Eugene! Gotta watch out swinging those wrenches between the battery posts! AND, whats with that adjustable spanner?? That OEM bolt is 5/16" six point. The cutoff is a great idea except for two overlooked issues. CHAFING between the Pos. and Neg. can lead to problems. Just beware! Can you swing the positive down 90*? The other is if you examine the battery and the OEM connector, theres "teeth" that dictate the position of the cables. On that negative side, Id put a nice stainless steel star washer betwixt the two. Also that metric bolt(?) should be used with caution as the female threaded part of the battery is still lead and can be over stressed. Think about that at Tea Time mate!
Yeah, I've seen the spark show from somebody doing that before! I had to use an adjustable as the sockets didn't fit in the gap and I don't have an imperial spanner set yet. I did think about the chafing and I tried to balance between all of the factors. Moving the positive cable downwards for example, could have caused more chafing with where it bent against the tray edge at the bottom. I think it will be ok but thanks for the warning. I saw those teeth that you mention, so I'll look for a steel star washer, thanks for the tip! I understand about the metric bolt. Unfortunately, imperial bolts are not available over the counter here in the UK. I would have had to order one from a specialist. I've always wanted to change the battery out for an Odyssey.
