Hey everybody, I am looking to add one of these to the trunk of my 1972 Buick Riviera. Do you guys have any recommendations on where to take the power from? I was thinking of running an in-line fuse in the cable.
Sorry, I was trying to be too clever! The link is in the words 'one of these' but the forum does not highlight it as a link. Here is the link too: https://sinolec.co.uk/en/cigar-and-...-outlet-12v-24v-compatible-and-voltmeter.html
First would need to know power rating as in amps. If could be wire into a switched source at the fuse box with a inline fuse at the box if it’s lower amperage than the terminal can endure.
Thanks for the reply. In terms of amps: USB ports only usually go up to 2A, so that would be 4A. The voltage meter is 16ma I believe. The 12v socket, the device I want to use draws 3.5A, so I was thinking 5A to be on the safe side. So in total, 10A should do it. What do you think?
I would use 18 or 20 awg wire, and a 5A slow fuse inline as close to the takeoff point as possible. Make sure adding 5A to wherever you're tapping into will not overload that circuit, or go right to the battery and fuse at the battery.
If you want the full 20A capacity of the outlet, you're going to need 12 awg wire and a 20A fuse. I would definitely take that off the battery. Not sure where you're getting 10A from. USB ports likely have a switching converter so that 2A at 5 volts is actually somewhat less on the 12V line.
You have a 72 Riviera with cigarette lighters in the back seat ashtrays. I would remove the back seat and tap into the existing wire, and route it to where you want to place the outlet in the trunk.
Unfortunately I do not have cigarette lighters in my rear ashtrays. I am guessing that these were only available with power windows?
There should be an extra terminal in the fuse box, usually labeled as accs, that you can tap from. Make sure it is fused, they usually are. Should be 15 amps or more, some are 20. If it's not fused, use an inline fuse as close to the fusebox as you can.
Thanks for your advice guys, really appreciate it as always. I will look for the extra terminal Steve.
Just a follow up question. My Buick does not have the rear window defogger. It does however, appear to have the cabling in place and presumably the fuse. Could I use this wiring? I looked in the workshop manual but couldn’t find what amp rating the fuse/cable was.
Maybe, how heavy, gauge wise is the wiring? I know these older cars up thru '76 used HEAVY gauge wiring for high amp draw circuits, like electric grid defogger.
No. Your only way to run power to the rear is to start from the battery. Use a 12 GA or larger wire with a 15A fuse right at the battery. It will be live all of the time.
This will give you a clue. If you take a DRY paper towel and wipe the wire clean theres a chance it was stamped during production giving you the insulation type and the gage. Most automotive wire is a THHN prefix. https://www.google.com/search?q=THH...wiz-img.yJDfbl8pAJg&ei=I65CXsaDLYvysAXr85uwBw https://www.delcity.net/documents/e...rY5gO9LhvTGaUYtmknLuLxq68KhbWmoxoCKZoQAvD_BwE
Ah fantastic, thank you! Jay3000, I understand what you're saying, I just wanted to only run a new cable run if I had to. Is there a particular reason you would not use an existing cable or is it mainly to do with cable age etc?
I would just get an amp wire kit. Just the big red wire with an in line fat glass fuse thats designed to reach the trunk. Use some of them yellow nylon connectors. Make sure you wear ansi aporoved goggles, eye protection, gloves, a helmut, and have a bucket of water or fire extinguisher handy. If you live in CA.