what is a good brand of pump that can be used on this application? I have .a street demon carburetor 750 cfm, the pump I purchased is not for carburetors. Can someone let me know what they are using on there car with this set up thank you very much.
Aeromotive makes a good,reliable pump,for this application. I ran one for many years without issue. I had this behind a sumped stock tank. Years later,I switched to a custom stainless tank,from Rick’s Hot Rods,which which has a different Aeromotive pump inside of it. Still running that today. Running a pre and post filter is also important.
I’ve been on summits web site trying to decide what electric carbureted fuel pump to purchase, I read the reviews and there are flaws in all the pumps. I would like some more feed back on the pumps you guys have choose. I made a purchase and it was the wrong one, so before I make another mistake I would like to here about past experiences with different electric carbureted fuel pumps
It’s for efI by me restricting it to 7 psi I ruined it??????? I think that’s what’s wrong. The the pump is a 15 psi Holley perfect for my application but when read more on it, after installing it I read ( for efi only). I still used it and performed great until it gets hot I guess. Went and started the car the next day everything was ok but not for me, I don’t want to be stranded on the road.
WHAT PART NUMBER? I have no idea how the fuel pump knows it's supplying a float bowl instead of injectors. The Holley electric fuel pump on my El Camino is a ~14psi unit, regulated down to 6 or 7 psi by the included dead-head regulator. Dead-head regulators are less than optimum; they cause the fuel pump to work extra-hard and tend to get warm. Someday I'll install proper return plumbing and upgrade to a return-style regulator.
The part number is HPY-12-927, this pump is only 15 psi too with a return regulator 43 gph , my car is 460 horse power so it’s more than enough?
Holley part number 12-927 carries the Summit number of "HLY-12-927". https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-927 An EFI system that uses a fuel pump running 15 psi would be a throttle-body system, the GM throttle bodies typically have pressure specs from 9--13 psi. Seems unreasonable to me that a regulator knocking the pressure to 5 or 6 or 7 would cause a problem with the pump. You could contact Holley for confirmation. I'd be looking at the filter sock in the tank being plugged (or missing, so that contamination/grit is being pulled into the pump.) That or a defective pump. You're sure the wiring to the pump is adequate, and the pump is getting proper power (voltage AND amperage)? 43 gph FREE FLOW. That means substantially less at operating pressure of 5-6-7 psi. I don't see any documentation regarding capacity at various operating pressures. IF (big IF) your engine requires 1/2 pound of fuel per horsepower per hour (actually, that's a little rich for a finely-tuned engine), 460 horsepower would require 230 pounds of fuel per hour. Gasoline weighs approximately 6 pounds per gallon. 230 / 6 = 38.4 gallons per hour. Now, we can argue the finer points about BSFC and the weight of gasoline...but that pump is barely big enough, with no margin for error at best. Realistically, if you REALLY have 460 horsepower, you're going to need more fuel than that pump can provide.
The pump I ran was the 11203. I ran this behind my sumped tank,with a filter between the sump and the pump,then another filter tucked in the frame rail,up to a MagnaFuel regulator. I ran -8 braided line from the tank to the regulator,then two -6 lines for each carb bowl. This ran flawless for many years. Back then,Aeromotive didn’t have the 11209,with the built-in regulator. That might be another option.
Having a high pressure/high volume pump pushing fuel against a deadhead regulator for a carburetor at less than 10 psi, can result in the regulator being beaten against and the fuel pump takes a beating from the pulses as well as creating a lot of heat. Having a bypass regulator allows the fuel to flow more freely through the pump and also cools the pump by returning fuel to the tank and the pump pulling/pushing cooler "fresh" fuel. Many aircraft work in a similar fashion and having a fuel pump cooled by fuel, the levels and flow are a must to prevent failure and many bad things from happening. The cost of a bypass system, either running a short loop back to the tank, vs a full run return line, is less than the cost of replacing pumps and or other damage (of the worst kind). Think of it as insurance. (as always, your milage may vary)
Yeah I kind of thought that. Summit is going to send me another pump and mean while I have dropped the tank and clean and replace the filter
My calculation came up to 38.2 making this pump a prime candidate for the job. (460x.5)=230. 6 Divided by 230=38.2 but if I’m wrong I will make changes. I really appreciate the feed back guys. I’m gonna put the tank back tomorrow and get ready the the new pump I have coming
FIFY. The problem is not your math. The problem is leaving little margin between the advertised "free flow" GPH and the suspected "working pressure" GPH, and your actual fuel-supply need.
Help me out, how much gph you think would be needed? And how much psi is safe to turn down to 7 or 8 psi?
When it was me, I bought a "Holley Blue" 12-802-1 pump with included dead-head regulator to supply a ~400 hp engine, with room to "grow" additional power. Downside: Noisy as hell. A Holley "Red" 12-801-1 pump would work fine, although the noise would probably drive you insane. Not much different from the "Blue" pump in that regard. The Holley 12-125 gerotor pump is "supposed" to be both quiet, and at 7 psi, shouldn't need a regulator at all. Interesting...but I don't know anyone who's used one. I wouldn't deliberately buy a dead-head regulator again unless there were some special reason I couldn't route return plumbing. I'm told that the return regulator helps with the noise as well as with pump life. A return-style regulator will about double the cost--but you already have one. There are plenty of electric pumps that will work. "I" would want something that will have the ability to push 46+ gph AT THE PRESSURE YOU WANT: 5-6-7 psi. In other words, move the decimal on your horsepower: 460 horsepower should have minimum 46 gph, AT THE PROPER PRESSURE. "Free flow" gph ratings are worthless. And lots of folks would want double what I'm suggesting. I don't think there is an upper limit if you have a bypass regulator. You already know what I think of deadhead regulators. Contact the manufacturer of your fuel pump for confirmation.
Ok thanks for the info, I will definitely use the by pass regulator and increase the gph. Cleaning the the tank now, I believe the dirty tank was my problem. Thanks again for the knowledge
Ha Ha and just when you thought you were in the clear............ Dont forget the sending unit. The part at your tank. Putting a 3/8 return line to a 5/16 factory return at the sending unit just gives you a long big straw with a coffee stirrer at the end. The pipes at the sending unit do remove eaisly , ounce you copy the length and bend, you braze them in with a torch. I use the malloory gyrator pump with a fram canister filter mounted in the trunk, (i have always thought this is not a good place for it ) it pulls then pushes to the mallory regulator on the firewal. Then an oil filled fuel pressure gague. then to the carb. No sharp 90 deg bends. I used copper line for the return. All connections I made are double flare and all lines have the 5/8 wrench fittings on them. Its been flawless for 10 yrs. I am going to do the oil presure cut out switch .
I plan on using the oil switch also soon as I can figure out how to or where to put it. I ran steel braided 3/8 line from the tank to the carburetor and the return line I used the 3/8 copper line that was the original line. I cleaned and sealed the tank with POR 15 and everything is good so far. I’m using the HLY-12-927 inline fuel pump
