When installing a electric fuel pump, is there any specific things need to be done when removing the mechanical fuel pump and putting a fuel block plate in the place of it? Someone said on chevys there is a rod that presses the arm on the mechanical fuel pump and you have to have a long bolt or something like that. Can someone give me information on this please. Thanks
You don't have to worry about any rods on a Buick. The actuating arm that rides on the fuel pump eccentric is attached to the fuel pump. Pull the fuel pump & throw a block off plate of the timing cover. Good to go.
Is your regulator a return style or a deadhead. I always use a return style, it does add more plumbing, but the pump runs a lot cooler and last longer.
The OEM "vapor return" plumbing is not suitable for use with a return-style regulator. Not large enough.
Hi Kenneth, Something else to think about is automatic shutoff of the electric fuel pump in case of a crash. In a bad situation what you don't want is ignition on, engine off, fuel still pumping to the engine compartment. There are a couple of ways to do this that come to mind, one is using an oil pressure switch in series with the pump via an electrical relay, another is to add an inertia switch. Devon
I didn’t sump the tank, I bought the out tank fuel pump. I finished it yesterday and test drove it. I was really surprised at the throttle response, very fast with no stumble.
With a return-style regulator, the return plumbing needs to be as big--or bigger--than the supply plumbing. 3/8 supply = 3/8 or larger return Practically all the fuel supplied at idle will be returned. Restriction on the return side can make pressure adjustment difficult or impossible.
Where did you mount the pump? Have you held the engine wide open in second and third gear? Why did you feel the need to go to an electric pump? There are high performance mechanical pumps out there. I run one in my mid 11 second car.
I just wanted a electric fuel pump, as matter of fact its starts a lot faster. I mounted the pump on the passenger side on the frame below the tank. Yes have floored throttle with no stumble.
I can believe that. Emptying of the float bowl when the engine is "off" is an epidemic problem. It's not a matter of stabbing the gas and thinking there's an improvement. You need to HOLD the pedal to the top of high gear, where the fuel demand is the strongest--and sustained. If the pump can keep up to sustained, high demand, you're fine. If it can't, you still have problems to resolve. Electric pumps are known for not "pulling" fuel "up" very well. This is why the OEMs mounted them in the tank, and towards the bottom of the tank.
Back in the days before there were any decent aftermarket HP fuel pumps for our BBB's, .... I ran a small Holley electric pump mounted inline inside the left frame rail as a "Pusher" as well as the Stage 1 mechanical pump. It was lower than the tank pickup. My Skylark ran 11.50's with that and finally went all electric when changing to Stage 2 setup. Larry
Electric pumps are pushers,and don’t pull all that well. Will they function,yes,but if you start launching the car,and force the fuel to the back on the tank,you will likely starve. The proper location is behind the tank,and at the lowest point,so it will always be the last thing to run out of fuel.
Hey I made some changes today Schurkey and I have to say you was dead on the problem I had. I replaced the 5/16 line with 3/8 fire it up and what you know , I had 7 pounds of pressure wow! Thank very much for the knowledge I appreciate it
