Which one of the above CARB will be best for 1972 Buick Skylark Auto? It's a convertible. Dont need a race. I know, I know....go with a Q-jet. My 1967 has one rebuilt by Ken. Try something new. Thanks
The 1405 is a 600, but yeah, I'd do what Ben said especially since it sounds like a cruiser type car.
I have a edelbrock performer carburetor 600cfm on my GS right now and it works and runs good but I will be putting a original Holly back on it very soon so if your not opposed to a used carb I can make you a good deal on mine and I know it runs very well on my motor. It will run great on a stock motor.
Looks Nice. I'm looking for a manual choke and my grandson works at a part store and can use his discount. For grins....what are you asking for the carb. Thanks Norm
i agree - nice lookin' motor . FYI : #1405 - 600 cfm manual choke , calibrated a little more towards performance #1406 - 600 cfm electric choke , calibrated a little more towards economy/cruise same carb just small dif's in jetting and metering rod numbers pretty much . I've run both on my SBM , did not notice much difference as far as just driving normal . and when set correctly the electric choke is a bonus . be sure that is well grounded and hooked to a "switched" power source not constant power . and as a side note I normally use the lower front driver side vac port for distributor advance . I believe that to be the direct vac signal not ported . a little quicker signal . you may want to try , at some later date , the 750 version . my truck kinda really liked the cfm when pushed and did not run bad down low . when using a dual mount pattern intake consider running the plate/gasket kit between carb n intake . may avoid a vac leak .
I have the 750 on my gs and it runs great , no problems at all. Pulls like a bastard when you put your foot in the tank.
I have an Edelbrock carb on the mostly stock Buick 350 in my 72 Skylark. I’m not a fan. It’s balky, the electric choke is forever fussy, and there is a hesitation mid throttle no matter the adjustment. It’s been rebuilt twice but still have problems. When I pull the stock engine and put the built one in, it will have a level 2 Quadrajet on top
With an aftermarket AFB you can't just have it "rebuilt" and expect it to perform. You have to spend time tuning with step up springs, needles, and the accelerator pump. Also, as Del stated, especially if you have a 1406 (I don't know if you do, but that's what most people buy), they are set-up very lean for economy. If you adjust to 1405 specs, that'll usually get you right in the ballpark. They can be fussy at first, but I can get one tuned in after about a day of back and forth testing. If you're having inaccurate or varying electric choke operation, you've got something else going on like a massive vacuum leak. There's nothing to the electric choke but a coil, a 12v feed, and a ground. Once it's set, it's set. If the needed setting changes, something else is wrong.
What I actually have is a 1403, installed by a previous owner. I've always understood - probably in error - that Edelbrock carbs are intended to unbox and go, and are not intended for a lot of tuning adjustments. Sounds like I'm wrong (happens all the time). Maybe with more fiddling it could be made to work better. I'm tired of it, though, and am unlikely to put any more effort into it. Especially since my new engine build is nearing completion. I will take another look for a vacuum leak, though. That is a really good suggestion. One thing that has always been a trouble spot for the 1403 carb is the idle adjustment screws. The adjustment screw on one side of the carb makes a huge difference when adjusted and the other side has basically no effect at all. I've had it apart twice and can't find any blockages that might explain this behavior. The last time it was apart, did discover some major problems with float adjustment. That helped but it still doesn't run all that well.
Hopefully you are taking what I'm saying in the good nature it is meant to be taken. I know I type pretty "to the point" sometimes haha. I fought Edelbrock carbs many times just like you and was where you are at, but after a lot of screwing with them for 20 years I've got a medium good understanding on them. But here's a couple things I see with your issues and a couple things to try. The 1403 being an electric choke model will be set lean for better economy (in theory), which for most of us means it's set to have a bog that's a major pain to tune out (Edelbrock tunes electric choke and manual choke carbs differently, which doesn't make a lot of sense but it is the way they do it). It being a 500 cfm carb it also is probably a little small for your 350 to start with, even if the 350 is stock. It would probably be happier with a 1405 on it, but if you're swapping carbs anyway certainly you could try a Q-jet or something different. While it's still on there, though, if you wanted to try to make it run better a set of step up springs and some accelerator pump adjustment would probably go a long way. Springs come from Edelbrock in full sets of 10 for something like $8 (1 for each side, so 5 different settings). I'd figure out what springs I had in, swap to the next lightest, and see if it improves. If it does, go to the lightest set. If it doesn't improve, swap to a stronger set. They're kind of weird in that it doesn't really seem consistent from engine to engine whether they like lighter or stronger, it really depends on each engine's vacuum signal. Once you get those figured out to the best setting, if you still have that bog, then start playing with the accelerator pump setting and the rod position in the 3 holes. I bet you need your metering rods to come out quicker and a little more accelerator pump. Your fuel mixture screw not making any difference on one side also makes me think maybe you have a vacuum leak, which would also explain your need for changing the choke setting all the time. Try and find a leak somewhere, possibly at the base plate on the side of the carb the fuel screw seems to not be doing it's job. Obviously, finding the vacuum leak if there is one is step number 1, as that will affect all other settings. Hope this helps.
Lucas - Thank you for the tips and advice on Edelbrock tuning. Even if I don't use this carb long term, it would be nice to solve the issues and gain a better understanding. Frankly, your brief explanation makes more sense than the Edelbrock paperwork that I've read through at least 3 or 4 times! As you point out, first things first means once again checking for vacuum leaks. Since it is a working carburetor, even after I take it off the Buick 350, I'll probably hang on to it. Stick it on the shelf with my demolition derby stuff. It is always good to have a spare working carburetor for derbying!
yes , 1403 500 , probably a little small . the edelbrocks are set up to run "ok" out of the box on a stockish SBC 350 . the left-right idle adjustment dif is a little worrisome . probably a small blockage , bad gasket etc . could be a bad casting ? not usually although their QC is not 100% . don't trash the 500 , some guys look out for them to use on 2X4 setups .
Had a 1406 on my 350 for a while but it had a bog in transitioning to WOT that I could never get rid of. Rebuilt a qjet about 6-7 years ago, which was much better. Just putting the finishing touches on a fitech install on it now. No more farting around with jets and rods.
speaking of QC - if you ever pull the boosters out be sure and check the round plugs in the back . I've had 2 that were loose or out . although those were both in AVS series carbs . reinstall and epoxy over . might cause an idle adjustment problem ?
