how did everyone else do this linkage? using the stock linkages in oreder for the kickdown to work the throttle is half open at rest. i've made a linkage that may work but it's not pretty and i'm woried about it sticking. post pics of linkages or a source to get it?
I left that linkage off. I had the opposite problem: on my car it prevented me from opening throttle more than about half way (equals no power equals no fun!). I decided it's not worth the hassle. It is only used on the stock engine/tranny setup to switch the pitch of the torque converter at about 95% throttle open. I don't really want my 45 year old torque converter switching the pitch of it's vanes when I have the nailhead at close to wide open throttle. That's just asking for trouble. Jim
Technically you dont need it, but it sure makes for a nice passing gear, especially in L (low) gear. Some people I've talked with said they made it work with the stock linkage, other made up a hybrid using the stock linkage and some threaded rod. I haven't done it yet but it seems to me a hybrid setup could be pretty slick.
still need some help i decided i am going to run it. wondering if i could have cool one made on a lathe
Jake, send me your email address, i have some pics of how I solved this problem when Iput a holley on my nail head....:Brow:
My car had an edelbrock on it when I bought it and the kick down was not hooked up. I didn't know anything about these dynaflows and had to ask some people what the lever going down to the transmission that was not connected to anything was for. I made a piece of linkage out of light flat stock. I cut a slot in the end connected to the kick down so that the lever would not engage until about half throttle and be fully engaged at full throttle. Works perfectly and made a TREMENDOUS difference.
i could send you the prototype. its jusy ugly thats all. iknow the one i made will be functional its just not pretty. and i'm worried about it sticking
Jake, If at all possible, get the linkage to work! You'll be amazed at how much difference it makes on acceleration. Just stuffed a low mileage used Dynaflow into one of my 63 Riv's. Apparently the switch pitch function was inoperative on the old transmission; when I got the "new" used transmission installed, the car really accelerates HARD! I'm going to get a kit to overhaul the old Dynaflow and see what is going on inside of it. If you can't get linkage to work, I wonder if you could adapt a cable to operate the switch pitch lever? Just a thought! Tim
Maybe its a help for you when I take a picture of my linkage? Im running a 750 Holley Single Pump Carb with a nice working selfmade linkage. :TU:
Jake, Have you considered taking the carb linkage off the original Carter AFB and adapting it to the Edelbrock AFB? Perhaps even using the Carters throttle shaft? Those carbs use a lot of the same parts. Any Carter AFB 57-63 should have the correct linkage. That way you could use the original rod. Just my .02 cents. Ed
switch pitch,hook up a choke cable to the rod going to the transmission,and you can pull it on anytjme you want.i had one on my 63 wildcat you dont need it all the time. i think i still have the rod i removed i,ll check.donny
I used the original linkage on my 63 riviera for a new edelbrock carb. It kicks down when I give full throttle.
It's not that difficult as to geometry (sorry, I can't tell you the exact pieces). 1. find the length of travel the Dyna linkage makes between idle and WOT. 2. is there a part of the existing carburetor linkage that moves that far (sometimes an existing arm can simply be extended)? 2a. if yes, does it go the right way (push or pull)? 2b. if no, try to find a linkage point (hole, bushing, stud) that is easy to reach, away from the carb as much as possible. Measure the travel the same way. 3. compare the distances - this is your leverage ratio. Example: the Dyna moves 4", the throttle moves 3". You need a lever in the same plane as the carb shaft with the 2 link positions in that ratio: 4:3 (the arm operating the Dyna must move faster than the link from the carb). Use Heim joints or ball/sockets rather than "L" shaped ends or clevises, and allow some adjustment for length in more than 1 place. If the useful carb bits move the wrong way, the link should be a bell-crank with opposing arms to reverse the Dyna motion, etc. Sometimes you just can't get the lengths right, and the trans link moves too far. In this case, use a small spring and a slot for some slack distance. 4. return spring operates at 90 to the link.
