Anyone have tips? Just follow the directions? My 72 BS GS is levelled and smoothed, ready for some hi build primer and a block sand. I'd appreciate any tips. I'll be using an Eastwood HVLP concourse gun with 1.4 tip. Ken
Read the spec sheet. You may need to use a urethane reducer to thin it abit. You may also need a much larger tip, I use Titan Vapor with a 2.3 mm tip to spray SPI 2K primer. (Short $ at Summit) . I absolutely destroyed a 1.8 mm tipped gun trying to spray it unreduced. Jim
Will this be the first priming? Have you epoxied it? What kind of finish are you after above average or just cruise in special? Here is my procedure for old cars 1.epoxy then within a few hours 2. Slick sand or similar poly primer 1.8 tip 3.block with 100/120 dry 4. Four coats of Urethane high build 1.4/.6 tip 5.block with 220 dry 6. If I'm happy with what I'm seeing I go to a surfacer primer I really like Omni 182 3 nice even coats with a 1.4 tip if I'm not happy I repeat step 4 but only 3coats maybe more in certain areas, I usually do end up repeating step 4 , all depends on how rough the car was. 7. Block with 320 and water , then firm sponge with 320 then soft sponge with 400/500 8.sealer or epoxy cut as a sealer then top coats If I'm just doing a budget all-over which I won't do anymore it would be 1.epoxy 2.4coats high build 3.block with 320 water sponge it with 400/500 4. Seal and top coat The difference between the two is roughly $10k Then you have the top coat procedure which is just as labor intensive,... And people moan and groan when you tell them $15k+ But on your original question, cut it with no more than one full part, some primers only need a splash to get it to lay others need a full part, I've never needed anything larger than a 1.6 tip If it's warm stop after the first coat and clean the fluid tip and air cap between coats. First coat should be an even coat let it flash which it will probably be doing rite behind you then hammer down on the 2nd 3rd 4th coat, all while keeping it even don't run it and dry spray it , the goal is to put it on level so it will work down level. If it's hot where your at use the med and slow activator equal parts of each, you can try each but just remember if you do you can't put a faster hardner ontop of a slower you can do the opposite tho. Don't puddle it up in body creases.
Ken if it's hot & humid. Everyone ( even professionals )Tend to apply a coat of primer Then wait 3-4 min. Hammer another coat wait 6-8 min Hammer another coat . If it's hot & humid you can beat your ass that the last coat of primer facing the air will dry/cure and crust over. It will trap solvent. Our brains don't work this way. Meaning That the 1st. 2nd or 3rd coat underneath will be wet longer than the last coat. Hot air hitting outer edge of primer will trap solvent . And the solvent will go back into the plastic. Really have to wait long inbetween coats. Even clear coat and sometimes color. My tech Reps from the paint company's tell us this when the heat comes. It's July here in Pgh. Already and has not been Hot or humid yet. When it does come us painters have to change the way we paint 360* And believe me most painters don't. And paint jobs turn to ****. Or Flatting out . Always pick the slowest hardener/reducer this time of year. Slower dries Faster. Because it lets solvent escape.
Thanks for the excellent detailed info guys. I am looking to do the best garage paint job I can. Just looking for a nice driver/cruise night paint job - not a show quality job. I had removed the old paint with aircraft stripper and 37 grit flap disc I have installed the repair panels (GS scoops, pass quarter section) smoothed them in with Eastwood filler, block Sanded 120grit. I used self etching primer rattlecans as I moved panel to panel - it wasn't all done at once. a day here a day there etc. Guide coat showed a few areas that needed correction, so more filler and sanding, primer. Then I did an overall sanding with 320. I am satisfied with the bodyfiller work, ready to really smooth the finish out and get rid of scratches. My plan was to do surfacer, then block sand, then seal with epoxy, and move on to color.
I too am painting my own car, buying all my paint etc. from SPI. Some epoxies cannot be used in conjunction with etching primers. Something to check on. Appreciate all the painter/bodyguys jumping in with advice. Thanks. I think the best tip I can offer is to read the spec sheet for each and every product you use and follow the directions and guidelines. Also, buy a few of the old school kitchen timers and use them to keep track of times between cleaning and coats of primer/paint/clear. Jim
Ken after blocking always go over the ( invisible Buick swoosh body lines) and on the hood. With the black tube. Go left and roll (spin) then right (spin) slightly. Then you will eliminate the lines the block makes. If you reprime. Then repeat process.
Notice the valley in the bottom of the door. It travels into the lower Qtr. and lower fender. The black tube will set you free. You should use this on all mud work before priming.
yes I have one of those tubes, and used it in exactly those places. the guide coat helped me see lows and highs, which was good but recapturing the bodylines like you mention required extra attention. some had become, I don't know.......bland? a little extra effort brought them back. as I worked finer and finer iterations, things shaped up to where I was satisfied. thanks for the tips!
I roughed things up with 120 then sprayed the Eastwood primer surfacer yesterday. Concourse HVLP gun with 1.4 tip, 4:1 not reduced At 25 psi I had to move the needle all the way out and adjust a pretty narrow pattern to get a medium wet coat. In hindsight I might have reduced to 4:1:1 and used a 1.8 tip. It would have been wetter, gone more quickly, and laid flatter. But results are good. It filled and build up well. Now for a week of blocksanding! Then I will seal with reduced epoxyprimer.
