I have a 71 GS 350 convertible with four wheel drum brakes. At a minimum, I want to install disc brakes on the front. I'm looking at conversion kits for the upgrade. I saw an earlier thread where the ball joints had to be replaced to accomodate the disc brakes from a Chevy S10 truck. Is this always the case? I'm not a mechanic, but I've been doing my own brake work for years. Is the conversion a complicated job? If it's something I can do myself, I'll be able to afford to convert the rear brakes too. Some of the conversion kits include a new booster and master cylinder and others don't. Is the booster and master cylinder with the drum brakes compatible with the disc brakes? Thanks, Chris
your current booster is compatable with either drum or disc brakes. your master cylinder will need to be replaced. I used Fine Lines for the new disc type brake lines. I used factory skylark spindles, discs, calipers, used an opgi proportioning valve. however if i were to do it again I'd get one of the kits. if you can do brake work you can do the swap. though to replace the front spindle you will need to get a spring compressor for the front springs. I personally wouldn't waste your time and money with disc rears. cars still come with drum rears and semi's work great with drum brakes. i went from manual drum to power disc front and replaced all the lines, however I needed to take it to a shop to power bleed the brakes cause I couldn't get a firm pedal.
oh... there are aftermarket kits that can keep your factory drum spindles. I think baer sells a kit like that, oh most conversions require 15" min. wheel diameter.
There is a thread on here about a kit that uses drum spindles and bolt on brackets . Nice kit . http://www.scarebird.com/12802/14301.html
Take a look at HO Racing and some of the old mags for the 74-80? Firebird/TA/Camaro disc brake conversion. This was done on my 71 Post coupe. Worked well and VERY cheap (around $200/less for everything). Good luck!
I have used the kits on a few of my builds and if they don't forget to include items (have had this happen) it was a pain free conversion. I never have used the spring compresser, I use the weight of the car and a floor jack to slowly let the lower control arm down. The engine has to be in the car or there isn't enought weight. Getting the new lines in place and looking correct takes patience, they never fit as tight as original and might need some tweaking. Steve
The fronts are not so tough. You can do it with just a little grease on the drive and brake fluid on your perfect paint. The rears will be another monster. The e-brake cable is always a challenge. Even the "bolt-on" kits need some fabrication. A disc/drum combo will need a proportioning valve with a metering block. I think you have vacuum assisted manual brakes now. Do you want power disc brakes? This job could involve changing a few more components perhaps including the pedal. Even the best guys get tripped up. My Z is on it's 3rd go around with a USS Brakes "kit" and you know that Matt knows what he is doing ou: 1st choice do front disc and see how you like it. 2nd choice, pay-it-done if you want 4w disc
I have both articles on our site for disc conversions....front and rear......rear is easy to do and nothing elaborate.
"I saw an earlier thread where the ball joints had to be replaced to accomodate the disc brakes from a Chevy S10 truck. Is this always the case?" I wrote the thread on the S-10 disc brake swap. Swapping the ball joints is always the case if you want to use the S-10 spindles. The S-10's are newer, therefore they are metric and have a different taper to their ball joints. I also saw someone mention using 15 inch rims on other disc brake conversions. This is true for most aftermatket swaps, because the disc brake rotors are bigger. The S-10 rotors are only like 10 1/2 inch rotors, so you can use 14 inch rims. "I'm not a mechanic, but I've been doing my own brake work for years. Is the conversion a complicated job? If it's something I can do myself, I'll be able to afford to convert the rear brakes too." If you can use common sense with tools, you should be able to manage a swap by yourself. Most people make it out to be harder than it actually is. If you do your own brake work and can bleed your brake system, there aren't too many snags in the swap. Someone mentioned a spring compressor for the swap. This isn't always necessary. I say this because you are only changing the spindle, not the springs. If you leave the front shock absorber mounted, it will hold the spring in place. You can easily swap the spindle, and then re-attach the upper and lower ball joints. "Some of the conversion kits include a new booster and master cylinder and others don't. Is the booster and master cylinder with the drum brakes compatible with the disc brakes?" If you are swapping from manual drum to power disc, the all-in-one kit is perfect for you, because it comes with everything you need for the swap, minus brake fluid and the tools. It's a lot less headache, because someone has already built and tested the system. It works, and they're backing up their product. From my own experience in the past, I swapped front power drums to front power disc, using the same master and booster, and with no changing of the proportioning valve, and everything stopped fine. I have since swapped to a power disc master cylinder, and have noticed considerable improvement in my braking performance ( plus you don't have to keep checking your fluid all the time, since the drum reservoirs are smaller). The S-10 swap was only offered up as another alternative, for example, a guy asked for a disc brake swap for a 62 Special. There isn't a whole lot on the market for that vehicle. Most 64-72 A-body GM cars are all the same when it comes to the chassis and suspension.I think 64-67 are all compatible with eachother, and then 68-72 are compatible with themselves as well. You'll have to ask around for more specific details. And finally, as for your mechanical abilities. If you're uncertain about how to do this swap, don't do it. Tinkering with timing and installing headers is one thing, but your brakes HAVE to work ( or you'd better be REALLY good at swerving). Hook up with someone on the board here that lives close by. Ask a friend with some mechanical knowledge and experience. Or just pay a shop to do it. Use your common sense. And be safe. -Josh <!-- / message --><!-- edit note -->
you shouldnt need a spring compressor if you are doing it right , leave in the shock and put jack stands right under the ball joint
look at his signature copied below __________________ George Nenadovich Buick Performance Founder www.buickperformance.com LOTS of good info on there. Thanks again George!!
Lots of good information that will help make the job easier. It's nice not to have to go into a project blind. Thanks to all!
I did my conversion with junkyard parts, not a kit, so the hardest part was collecting everything. Putting it together was easy. You could do it with no problem.
Yea, Check out George's site. I used a factory disc set up which I picked up in a trade. On the rear conversion I went with the TSM which worked out great. Their kit uses the original park brake cables also. http://www.tsmmfg.com/ Also I think George sells the correct Disc factory combination valve, or maybe another member ? I went with Inline Tube for the new brake line, Great original look and fit. You can order the hole 7 pice kit. Or just the pices you want. I would replace them all.
