can someone with a NHRA handbook tell me what is specified regarding the driveshaft loop? Materials Specifications? Distance from U-joint? I plan to build one like the ones that bolt to the trans mount, but want to be sure it meets NHRA specs. Casey Marks mentioned that the ones that are being sold need modified for a quality fit, so I thought, "why not build the whole thing?" TIA
Adam The placement is within 6" of the transmission yoke. On mine we built the X-member out of 1 1/2 tubing and integrated the loop into it,I've got pictures if you'd like some ideas. reply with your E-mail and I send some.
trans mount loop Adam: I put one of the trans mount loops in my Ramrod, but had to do extensive modifying for it to even work and I think it threw my driveline angle off a little. I ended up having to remove all the material on the top of the loop from about 8 o'clock to 4 o'clock so it didn't rub on the driveshaft. The extra thickness of the plate under the trans mount moves the driveshaft up the thickness of the material and there's not that much clearance to start with. It also changed the trans to driveshaft angle. It still functions to hold up the shaft (we spit one out at the Pure Stock races the first year we were there, no fun). I think the balance tube (H pipe) in the exhaust would do just as well, but the loop is now required. Tempted to remove it, though.
Gary, my e-mail is a_rocket_88@hotmail.com I'd like to see what you've got. Dave thanks for the hints. Maybe I'll build this one to mount under the crossmemeber. Casey mentioned pinching his loop into an oval to better fit the tunnel. Gee, maybe I should market the "improved version." :TU:
I just installed mine a few weeks ago. I used the standard universal loop that bolts to the floor pan. I have a 3 1/2" aluminum shaft and 1350 u-joints. I barely had enough room to squeeze the loop over the shaft without rubbing on top. With my set-up there's only about 3/8" between the top of the shaft and the floor pan. I bent the the two long bars on each side to push the loop higher up in the tunnel. BTW, NHRA does specify a full LOOP. I broke a shaft once and it banged up the floor board a little. They also specify 1/4" thick and 2" wide. Just my .02. have fun.
Thanks, Jeff. Any extra info helps. I want to make DAMN sure I get this right the first time. I do enough jobs over as it is (and it drives me crazy :stmad: when I have to).
Adam, I installed one of the Indian Adventures loops and the only problem I've had is that it contacts the floorboard and would rattle under acceleration. I put a 1/8" piece of rubber floormat between and the problem is gone. Kinda funky though, so I'll be looking at improving that. I considered bending the loop extension to clear the floor but that would have put the driveshaft off center in the loop. I'm sure it also changed the pinion angle but I put in Hotchkis adjustable uppers at the same time so got that where it belongs. I sent someone an outline and the dimensions of the IA loop via fax last year but don't know if I still have a copy of that. I could measure and send you that stuff if it might help. Digital picture, too, if you'd like. Seems like some kind of offset right off the back of the yoke might be the ticket to get it off the floor and keep the shaft centered.
Gary and everyone else thanks for the help :beer I got 'er done this weekend. With less than $5 worth of steel strap and a little welding. It is similar to the "Native-American" :gt: Adventures but bolts on the bottom of the cross-member with a spacer. Sure wish I didn't have to drive so far for these little projects :af:
Buick racer Ron Kincaid has designed a wonderful driveshaft loop that ACTUALLY FITS. Available @ Year One. I believe the part number is DSL24. Michael Tweedy XSPerformance @ iwon.com
