Do any of you know any good guides to drag suspension. More specifically being able to launch on the street, so not ideal drag strip settings. So far all I found was high spring rate LF. I am looking for how to adjust a four link, wheather to swith it to something else, do airbag help, asmetric tri bar. Stuff like that. Can be as technical as you want, I might not be able to read it, but can find a Phy Prof who can. Also stuff like who has best control arms, front,back, best DOT tires, sring rates, shock choice. Looking at 10 inch rears, so not crazy drag slicks or anything.
Be curious to see what people post. I'm at the same spot. Car should be back on the road this month fter 13 years. I used to run slicks all the time, and had good 60'. But I'd like to be able to run good on street tires as well. Hoping to make the track March 9th. Hooking up all the torque though may be a chore. I was thinking remove the front swaybar, 90/10 shocks, air bags out back and maybe an HRparts rearsway bar set up. We'll see what those in the know say :TU:
I would send a post to a guy named Kriegs who is a member here. Best chassis guy I know, he will be doing the same thing you guys are asking about on the 71 you see pictured in my avatar photo. dave
Aside from normal bolt-ons, lower the front of the lower control arm in the rear. You have to drill a hole but easy to do and it works. "No-Hop" bars suck for the street since they change the geometry and takes away from the car lift on he front end. M/T drag radials are the best thing going as far as I'm concerned for street duty and stick. Get REAL 90/10 shocks, they cost more than the cheep ones. The difference is better shocks actually have the stiff compression to hold the front end up. Cheepies are just sloppy shocks.
Do a search on this board. We've been down this road before. I don't know about the "high rate left front spring". That's going to kill the weight transfer. I use Wolfe Racecraft stuff and stock springs in the rear and Del-a-lum busings on stock a-arms with Moroso springs up front. All control arms are in their stock locations. Spring rates play a big part. Also, an anti-roll bar in the rear is mandatory in my book. Just some thoughts. We all have our pet set-ups. I can tell you one constant though - test and tune. Don't be afraid to make changes "just to see what happens". You might learn something. Make educated guesses and record the results. Keep records of what works and why. There is an explanation for everything. Remember - if the facts don't support your theory, throw out your theory and get a new one! Have fun.
Yeah, thanks for reminding me of the rear sway bar. Your supposed to leave the front one off. The reasoning behind the LF spring is to plant the right rear tire I think and supposedly provide better traction for RR tire. The point of that being that if both rear tires have equal downforce they grip better instead of one gripping and one slipping. Also anyone who knows correct me, as this is just what I have heard. All this might be as useful as adding Nos stickers to the rear window.
I've heard of some old school stock and super stock racers that set up using the taller LF spring. But I've always been skeptical of that. As your car launches and transfers weight, any type of preload at the front becomes less and less effective on the rear. In fact, if your really cooking and the front tires are off the ground, the LF spring is doing nothing! I've bought and read the Dave Morgan Door Slammer chassis book, and the Jerry Bickel chassis book, and can't remember any mention of asymmetrical preload or spring rates on the front.
i plan to go with 325 50 15s mt street radials...maybe some nitto 444? ad for actual suspension, i;m just going to replace my rear airshocks with a better brand, going to get tas no-hop bars, not sure on springs...might get a front and rear swar bay and edelbrock ias shocks for the front should be a good street/strip combo i hope
My car has STOCK ORIGNAL SPRINGS that I bought the car with. All I have is Lakewood shocks,Hotchkins rear control arms,(stock pinion angel) Wolf upper rear end bushings, & a anti roll bar. I am on a 28x9 M/T slick with 13lbs of air. The car 60 foots 1.44 -1.46 Before the anti-rollbar, I used to run a Hotchkis rear sway bar and a right rear air bag with 20 lbs in it. 60ft.1.50-1.51:3gears: These are the bushings I am talking about. You could also buy Edelbrocks upper control arms. You get the built-in bushings & adj. control arm all in one. The right P/N is 5249. I also run polyurthane bushings the rear & the frame brace that ties the upper & lower control arms together. If you start to make big power & going fast with air bags & mis-match springs you could have your hands full when you go to STOP the car !!! it can pull hard!!!! You have a fully extended front suspension and the you get on the brakes HARD!!! The diffrent spring rates could take you for a ride... When I was running just a right rear air bag it didnt effect the stopping of my car.I wouldnt mess with mis-match springs & the anti-roll bar isnt very street friendy.
Vic, That looks like my car, minus the two rear doors. :Brow: I am looking into doing something very simailar to what you have. Shoot me an e-mail so I can bend your ear on some power and drivetrain questions. I am new to this board and I hope I can get my 65 four door to launch like that. I want to trade out my 300 for a big block and need to match a tranny, suspension and diff. to handle some :3gears: .
Stubbe, I can't wait to do the BB swap. ray: Vic was cool enought to send me a pm. with his phone #. I appreciate the help of this board already. I have had my four door for about 2 years now and I enjoy it and it is about an 8 on a 1-10 scale. Straight, no rust and 98% original but we only drive it on weekends and not so hot days, here in Orlando. I want to do some mods but try to keep the original look and not chop it all to hell. I think it will be so much more fun for the wife and I to drive it a little harder and have some fun.:3gears:
