I can see you really have not a clue to what your buying... You really need to save your money and buy NEW from a reputable seller. That unit you LINKED TO is a truck unit and DOES NOT belong in any performance car. Please save your money and do it once... Your jumping into an area that you will regret when you think your getting a deal. I have all the parts you need... BUT just can not give the parts away... In business you know... MAYBE someone here will offer you some parts... But used is used and since you do not know about what your buy you probably will not know a good one from a bad one when you receive it for the seller. https://www.ebay.com/itm/GMC-Chevy-...027773?hash=item2ca94e153d:g:5SIAAOSwmmxW5CDw
This gov-lock was installed into a street/strip application,and this happened at the track,which also resulted in damage to the car,after it smacked the wall.
Yep, That is that Gov bomb as picture in the ebay ad.... They are great unit for what they were designed for. A-B driving and some snow, Ice, little bit of camping offroad towing etc. Other than that all out performance they are NOT to be used. Including burn outs, drag racing, extreme offroading....etc. Jim J D
I just fought a similar battle with my Sportwagon project - cheap or good? It is a wagon and I don't want to spend a ton knowing what it is worth when I am done. I tried a posi out of a parts car that turned out to need a rebuild (and someone gouged out around the pinion seal with an unidentified implement). Luckily I already had that part so it was just my time that I lost. It still is not fun taking the rearend out a second time. I personally still think I am still in the 1980s where you pick up a posi for 150 bucks and run it. I forget that these parts aren't 12 years old like they were then - they are 46 years old. So I am acquiring parts to do it right - including buying a parts car that has the rearend housing you already have. Save your money and have someone put it together that knows how, you will be happier and the part will live a lot longer. Just my 2 cents.
Went with an Eaton Posi and Richmond gear kit with bearings, however it does not include axle bearings apparently. Having some trouble with what bearings I need for non-C clip axles, bore diameter, inner diameter, etc. Any advice appreciated...!
For the 71-2 8.5 10 bolt rear in the Skylark/GS, the axle bearings are A9 or SET9. The seals are 712146. Make sure the seals measure .490” thick, there are some inconsistencies out there and thinner seals will give you too much endplay. http://jdrace.com/diff_id/10b85.htm
Larry Please tell people to use the Timkin SET9 and 712146 Timkin seals... I have not had a chance to change the web site... Nephew is busy with LIFE...lol. Jim
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIo8j-6rXG3wIVgwOGCh1TngbYEAQYBCABEgK8Q_D_BwE https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIkfGvrLbG3wIVxFqGCh0faw5iEAQYASABEgKDiPD_BwE
lol. SET9 is TIMKIN ONLY part number and everyone else is A9. They are essentially suppose to be the same axle bearing...BUT you will not fnd a A9 Timkin bearing... they do not exsist... it is called a SET9 Just to clear it up. Jim J D Race
humm koyo has this bearing... never knew that... what does it look like...tapered of square barrel type?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axle-Beari...2-bolt-Ford-8-8-5707-R1563-KOYO-/191016142199 Looks different than the set9 though...
That is a c-clip axle bearing and seal...That is not a9 sorry... try again 5707 is the Chevy bread and butter axle bearing it is pressed into the housing tube end. Jim
