D&S Performance Buick 455/462 V8

Mike, tomorrow I am ordering 4-cans of this stuff from Jeg's tomorrow. :beer

http://www.jegs.com/p/Duplicolor/Duplicolor-High-Heat-Paint/763072/10002/-1

 

Get your hands on an oil additive called ZDDPlus too, not sure if Jeg's carries it or not. Essential for cam break-in and for every oil change to keep our old-tech flat tappet camshafts happy.

Devon

P.S. Even though I'm a pain in your backside, if you have any questions about the break-in process just give a shout to me or any of the other members. We all want to see you tearing up the asphalt soon.

 

... LOLLL ... Devon, Devon, Devon; YOU are NOT a pain in my backside ...
I LOG ON SOMETIMES JUST TO SEE WHAT YOU ARE REPLYING TO.:beer

Also, a Mustang-guy told me last night that he uses the black paint they paint outdoor grills with... from Home Depot.:shock:

Thanks for the cam-break-in info offer ... and all.:grin:

 

"2-MORE DAYS TILL STAGE-1 REGAL TRANSFORMATION!!!"

:3gears::3gears::3gears::3gears::3gears::3gears::3gears:
​

 

... I'm taking the Regal via flatbed to the SHOP today at 5-pm! :beer

At 4:00pm today, I am also taking the GN rear to KM Driveline to have the TA rear cover installed, the Energy Suspension control arm bushings, gear oil, and the complete rear inspected. I pick it up tomorrow.

The Buick455/TH400/GM 8.5" posi-rear drive-train goes to the SHOP on Friday of this week. The TA flex-plate arrives no later than Monday.

SO-FAR-SO-GOOD!!!:grin:

 

oh believe me the motor isnt goin in with the headers attached, actually they will need to be put in the car first and then the motor dropped between them, be prepared to grind the ears off of the upper control arms and possible a little bit on the drivers side frame down by the proportioning valve. i had my motor out 15-20 times when i was putting it in the first time. almost called it quits a few times. glad i didnt though.good luck.its alot of fun in the end.

 

Thanks very, very much for the heads-up. :beer

 

... 1st pics of my Regal out of the garage since the crank-broke. It had 3-flat tires from prior Olds-307 burnouts and sitting for 1-1/2 years.:laugh:

I also took the GN rear to KM Driveline to have the rear inspected, the TA rear girdle installed, and make sure the rear is balanced. It will be ready for pick it up tomorrow.

The SHOP and I begin tomorrow. :beer

 

... FINALLY; my Regal is at the SHOP!!! The TA Performance flex-plate comes no later than Monday ... I take the D&S 455 motor and tranny to the SHOP on Tuesday ... along with the GN rear. :bglasses:

 

... and a final small clip ... until the Oldsmobile crap comes out.:3gears:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMk-3_vKGKk

 

... KM Driveline called me this morning;

THE POSI UNIT AND GEARS ARE PITTED!!!

A brand new Auburn posi unit, new 3:42 ring & pinion, new bearings, and adjustment/balance with new posi-oil cost me $605 even! I am getting back my pitted posi unit just to see.

Hey ... at least I found out BEFORE it went in the Regal.:beer

Monday I pick it up.
SO-FAR-SO-GOOD.:laugh:

 

... last pics of Regal until the motor, tranny, and rear is OUT. :TU:

 

... couldn't help it (OCD, remember) ... a few more pics.

The Olds 307/Th200/7.5" limited-slip 3.08:1 rear are all unbolted and ready to be pulled ... MONDAY. Why Monday (I almost cried myself); The SHOP owner insisted that we pull the Olds drive-train the same day the Buick 455/tranny/GN rear are present. Additionally, the Buick 455 flex-plate arrives via UPS on Monday. In pic#3 it shows how close the Olds-307 is to the upper control arm ... imagine the Buick 455; I'm a lil worried about HEADER fit now. The last 2-pics show the 7.5" limited-slip 308-geared rear. The TH200 tranny/converter & the rear and drive-shaft goes to Tyrone ... the guy that built my '70 TH400. He told me that he used a 1969 series pump in my tranny as a favor. lol In closing, we are going to "box" my factory upper (rear) control arms ... AFTER I SOAK, CLEAN, SAND, AND (rust-guard) ... THEN I PAINT THEM.

Next/updated photos on Monday.:laugh:

 

Is he going to give you time to clean/paint the engine bay before you stick that shinny new motor in there? Seems a shame to stick a new motor in a dirty engine bay.

 

"YES SIR!!!":beer

I wanted to start sanding TODAY ... but gotta' wait till Monday. My GAME is to lie to the SHOP owner regarding the flex-plate's ACTUAL DELIVERY TIME ... that way ... I have 3-hours to play-with :grin: IN THE ENGINE BAY.

 

... Please; the rear brake modification using @ 4-pads and a S10-truck non-power brake wheel cylinder on my '87 Regal's GN rear???? ou:

 

oh, the headers are going to touch. i didnt look to see which ones you were useing but i have the t/a's with the 2 inch primarys and like i stated before it was either ding the header or grind the control arm, i chose to grind.

 

... the same headers. Are yours the long-style? Do have pics you can post ... please???ou: (That's really my engine in my profile pic).

 

yes mine are the long style, i dont have any of how the headers look in the car, and i just pulled the motor because i spun a bearing. i will at least take pics of what i had to do to the control arms to make it fit. its not alot but it was needed.just so you know, the frame pads dont line up with any of the existing holes in the k member so you will be making new holes also. hardest part of the swap in my opinion.

 

Thanks, Dan.

Poston stated that their frame pads lined-right-up ... I had to drill one new hole on each side of the chassis. I had a feeling the TA chassis pads were going to have the same issue. I had to bolt it down through the oblong hole in the K-member with a SWIVEL ratchet. I took me 3-day to figure that out in 1998 ... now I can do it in my sleep. I plan on cutting down the the control arms ... with them off the car (changing the bushings & bolts to new) ... and sanding/painting the c-arms afterward.

Thanks alot, Dan.:beer