Crappy Cam

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by johns63riv, Dec 9, 2002.

  1. johns63riv

    johns63riv Member

    CRAPPY CAM!!!

    I had to remove the lifters this weekend as nothing was working to revive them. a couple of lifters were so badly worn it took an hour just to remove them. I inspected the cam lobes and found that two of the lobes are almost an 1/8th inch shorter than the rest. I know that I must replace the cam and the lifters, and I would like some input as to the best way to proceed. A major concern is the water pump and timing cover area as there is a lot of rust in this area.:Do No:

    The engine in question is a 425...

    Thanks,
    John
     
  2. Mark Ascher

    Mark Ascher 65GS.com

    John,

    In my opinion, the proper way to proceed is to pull that thing out of there and tear it down. With flat lobes, I would want to know what else is worn out (you didn't state general engine condition or mileage) or what the metal from the missing lobes did to any internals. To get the cam out with the engine in car, you need to remove everything fom the front of the engine, plus the radiator, and maybe the grill too.

    Mark
     
  3. johns63riv

    johns63riv Member

    the engine has 148k and the overall condition of everything else is quite good. there appears to be no abnormal wear outside of the two lifters and the corresponding lobes on the cam. I do plan on lifting the engine enough to get to the oil panand inspect the bearings. I am trying to get this girl on her feet enough to make the drive from Los Angeles to Inver Grove Heights MN in a couple of months...:(
     
  4. Buford

    Buford Old guy member

    One thing I learned...if the water pump is ok, don't remove it, as the little 1/4" bolts usually snap off because they are seized in the aluminum timing cover. The big balancer retaining bolt is super tight...200 plus ft. lbs. I used an old lifter (with short grooves cut in the side, leading edge), welded (mig) to a rod as a reamer to cut the varnish buildup in the lifter bores. Use a drill to power it, and a little solvent...IT WORKS! I would install a new timing chain, as well as the late model (Buick 455) front seal while you're in there. It's a good idea to use anti-seize on any bolts contacting the aluminum timing cover to help stop corrosion. Don't forget the new camshft lube and break-in procedure! Otherwise, it's bolts and nuts. Hope this helps! Frank :beer
     
  5. Mark Ascher

    Mark Ascher 65GS.com

    My thought is, get that water pump off now, before you drive that thing 2000 miles. I set out to Bonneville for Speed Week in 91, and I wasn't 5 hours from home before the water pump bearing started to let go. Trying to find a nailhead pump in the middle of nowwhere was not easy. At least you can fiix the small bolts bolts while you have it in a driveway. I changed out mine out in a campground - semi PITA.

    Otherwise, I would take Franks advice - sounds good to me. Inver Grove Heights, you'll be right in my backyard man.

    Mark
     
  6. Justin

    Justin Active Member

    NAPA still has the new waterpumps for the 401/425. And yes you will break some of the small bolts. I used the stainless hardened bolts and copper antiseize goop. Its a pain but a new pump should last 10 years.
     

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