http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?226127-Anyone-gone-Distributorless&highlight=crank+trigger See this thread for some ideas, starting with post # 8
Facebook broke all my picture links, but I'll go back and fix them with photobucket links. **I just finished repairing the picture links in the thread Larry linked too** This is what I did. I got the 36-1 trigger wheel off a '91 Ford Escort engine (just takes some prying to slide it off the balancer). Then had the local agriculture machine shop smooth out the back of the crank pulley. Just taking enough off of it to make a flat surface, no more than needed. Then opened up the ID of the Escort wheel to firmly, but not interference, fit the pulley. I then drilled four holes through the wheel and pulley and installed roll pins. Tens of thousands of miles later they are all still there and I've had no issues with it. I figured if the roll pins started disappearing or working their way out I'd replace them with sheet metal screws from inside the pulley hub, but I haven't had to do that. Machined flat. Slid into place. Example of how it looks against a stock balancer. With the sensor I am using (Cherry Hall) I do not believe the balancer would interfere with the signal, but I have not actually tried it. This is with the Romac SFI balancer. I do not have it pinned at this point, so the missing tooth is far too close to TDC for my liking in the picture. One of the four roll pins. Nothing fancy. The TA timing cover only gives one bolt for the crank sensor (kinda odd, two would of been nice for rigidity), but I put a tab on there to place against the mechanical fuel pump. I'm considering doing away with the mechanical pump, and if I do I'll have to reconsider this design. And it's been like this since 2011 or 2012.
