I have a couple of questions on my ignition. My (original?) 1967 Buick Special ignition has three positions. 1. Off (12 o clock position) 2. power to some devices, like radio etc. 3. cranking the engine. - Is this normal or should there be more positions? I seem to recall my dad could turn his 1973 Chevy also from Off to the left. Why do I not have this? - When I put my key into second position should all dummy lights come on (Gen, Temp, Oil)? I assume yes but this is currently not happening. And then fade away when I crank (pos. 3)? This is a first set of questions to narrow down the electrical issue I have. Thanks Patrick
On my 1969 only the oil and gen light are on at the first position, during cranking the temp light lights. What's your issue, the suspense is killing me?
My ‘68’s switch has ‘left’ for accessory (only the radio on mine), but it is a little difficult to turn, enough so that it almost feels like it isn’t supposed to go that way. Patrick
If I recall correctly, every GM car I have owned from ‘a 64 to late ‘80s had an ‘acc’ spot that was left or counter clockwise from ‘off’, whether it was a dash mount (‘68 and prior) or column mount. The ‘69 column lock change didn’t affect ‘acc’. To answer your other question, ‘on’ should turn on several lights (gen and maybe oil and temp) along with the blower and radio if on. All that goes dark and quiet when turned to ‘crank’. Patrick
yeah turn the key backwards for the radio. i always found it odd that the wipers worked in that position but the power windows were in-op. what sense does that make?
The issue is that I am killing battery after battery in a slow battle..... What I found out so far is that the batteries do net get charged, as they should. The cars starts and runs fine for a while and then starts sputtering for a coupls of miles and then dies altogether. When cranking after it dies I hear a very odd noise, not the typical "battery is to weak for the starter clonking noise" but a very hectic vibrating noise and definitely no starter movement. After putting in a new/charged battery the car starts and runs fine again. So it appears I am running purely on the battery until it is completely drained. Will this ruin batteries? Obviously the Generator is one of my first suspects, but I have no dummy light warning. Hence my questions on when it should come on. I see it glowing in the "acc-position", so the bulb seems to work but no warning when engine is idling ??? Next thing I did for testing: Engine idling, no electricity consumers at all and I have -2Amps (really minus!!) when measuring the positive cable that goes to the batttery. My understanding of a 80Amps Generator (bought two years ago, hecho en Mexcio, internally regulated) would be to see maybe up to 40 Amps going to the battery. And 80amps when reving higher probably at 2000rpm? So 2 Amps are being used by the ignition in order to keep the car running. Any thoughts on that? Patrick
ok, I "should" have a left of Off position? I was hesitant to apply more force, maybe I'll give it a try once the other issues are solved. Thanks Patrick
Your car was built with an external voltage regulator mounted on the firewall. An internally regulated alternator is a common upgrade, but yours may have been done wrong; I suspect your problem is in the conversion. You need to figure out what’s been done to see if it’s a component failure or bad work. And yes, draining a battery repeatedly does shorten its life. Your ignition switch should be ‘acc’ to the left, ‘run’ and ‘start’ respectively to the right. (I think your switch should go left but don’t break it based upon my advice. Get an owner’s manual and shop manual for it). Patrick
On my 67 there is a left "accessory" position. The first position to the right all 3 dash lights come on (Gen, Temp, Oil). Then they go off when the engine is started.
I did install the internally regulated myself after the original died on me. With a good description (likely from this board it is not rocket sience). After that I rode >10,000miles so it might still be the root cause but it is not my first guess ;-) well... while writing this..... which of the cables would have to fail in order to have no charging and no dummy light? As soon as I can dig it out (moved houses recently) I'll have a look at my 67 manual. I seem to remember that book confirmed what you are saying. I wont touch until I have sorted out more relevant things. Any other ideas what needs to go wrong so that the Generator doesn't seem to charge the battery and at the same time does not trigger the Gen. dummy light? Patrick
Thanks Anthony for your confirmation. Actually what I thought. So then my current illumination on the first position to the right is not as it is supposed to be.
