Bill Hirsch is what I used. Real engine enamel ( straight enamel ) in Qt. Can . Painted engine dissembled. Black oxide bolts arnt painted and all gaskets edges are showing. Also added hardener to paint the oil pan. But not the block . But I'm sure the rest of the guys ways are good too. I just have a problem with spray cans. If the paint is thin enough to come out of that tiny hole can't be durable.
Well, the brake booster you just buy and install a new one, about $150. The hinges and the hood latch you send to a plating service, ask around here and many people can give recommendations. Good luck with the detailing of your engine bay.
That dupli color is to poppy red. The more people do engines that color the more people think it is right. The Krylon has been around probably since these engines were new. It has never changed.
I hate those China brake boosters as well. They stand right out as fake to me. Pay to have your original rebuilt. I had guy that rebuilds mine tell me he was offered pallets of those and they are dirt cheap.
Go to the Search function and type in engine paint and you will find several threads, one as recent as February this year. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?posts/2655370/
Go to Search Function and type in engine paint and you will find several threads one as recent as February this year. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?posts/2655370/ In early May I used the DupliColor as mentioned in the thread and it looks great. I painted my water pump but apparently it was left natural aluminum by the factory. My exhaust manifolds were coated by a coating specialist here in Texas and I have been using him for over 20 years. I used POR15 on my engine compartment, including front suspension parts. It dries with a satin finish close to the original paint. Hope it helps,
Just a tip on painting a water pump. Make sure it is super clean and paint it with a self etching primer first or the paint will flake of in short time. It may flake off anyway. Smooth aluminum does not hold paint well.