Hey guys I'm wondering if there is by chance anyone that fixes/repairs these old original clocks that our cars came with? I have 3 clocks (63 Skylark) that I have purchased and not a single one works. Any info tips, leads etc would be much appreciated. Keith
I redo 70-72 for guys on the board so for others I like these guys https://www.clocksandgauges.com/ Pricey but top notch
I fixed one that was rusted tight using Kroil and slowly working the action. (1964 style) Once it was freed up, I used 2500 to clean the points (again using Kroil) and had it working for a few years (then put an tac in the space). Most of the time, it seems the points get carbon build up so they no longer make contact or they stick closed, and the adjustment shaft gets rusted. Might be worth a shot before shipping one off and paying a lot. If it does not work, is still should be repairable and if not repairable, the quartz kit will get it going.
You've got 3, take one apart. Basically it's a 2-minute wind-up clock that's rewound by a solenoid. Most common problems are congealed lube and dirty points. Depending on how it was stored, corrosion could be the issue...then you may want to go quartz...
I'm pretty sure all Buicks came from the factory with a BAC (busted ass clock). Never seen one that actually worked. Tried fixing a few. No dice. Kind of of like the horns...pulled dozens from the salvage yard and threw away 99% because they didn't worked.
I can always get the clockwork to run, it's the lousy points that are almost always the issue. I fixed the one in my Electra and it worked like a trooper for 3 weeks and is now hit and miss. So that means the points are probably pitting and full of carbon again. I haven't located a new source for the points, having full-matching surface points would probably help the longevity in those things.
I did the same in my 79 Corvette with the same results. Gonna go quartz or stick a little LED clock on the lens.
...point-filing is a lost art. Anyone still have a point file in toolbox? From days before ignition accessory position, had to leave key on to listen to radio. If you forgot to bump points open, you could kill battery and/or burn points...ahhh, the good ol' days...
Bill, the voltage used in the points is just enough to make the points repel from each other and that action coupled with the counterweight on a ratchet wheel will snap the lever back so spring pressure keeps the clockwork going, it's not to allow a 20,000 volt shot through. But I hadn't thought of a condenser, that would probably start a fire. I suppose if the coil was starting to go bad (and after 50 years that's probably a certainty) it wouldn't shoot enough voltage and it would only repel 1/2 way or less. That's what mine is doing, it's only running about a minute. The spark is yellow as opposed to blue, so that tells me the charge going across is probably not enough, and that could be from a bad coil or misaligned points that don't get full contact. So this next winter I'll probably pull it out, check the coil, and carefully file and align the points again. I have to admit, I was pressed for time on the Electra and got sloppy. Normally I hook it up to a battery charger for a couple of hours and watch the action. If the coil is no good, I don't know what I can substitute to make it work; I think I tried that on one with no real success. For anyone thinking about doing this job themselves, the key thing for the clock movement is to keep it clean, and not to over oil it. What most people will do is soak it in WD-40 and then slather it up with 3 and 1 oil on every wheel and pivot. This actually causes more drag, and the clock will likely not run. In order to get it to work, I've seen guys shorten the spring on the lever to get it to pull harder, which then loads up the clockwork. It'll tick, but it won't be accurate and it speed up or slow down depending on temperature. The other thing over-oiling does is actually trap dirt, so the clock will fail prematurely if you're lucky enough to get it to run in the first place. For a cheap "no-jewel" clockwork, they're pretty much bullet-proof, but they are susceptible to dirt and fouling which will stop even the most bullet-proof mechanism. The "easy home method" to clean the movement is with lighter fluid, (the Zippo type). Naptha is better for cleaning, but much more dangerous to use. Zippo fluid is essentially a light kerosene, and has some lubricating properties whereas naptha does not. Disassemble the clockwork if you think you can get it back together again, but if you're not sure, don't try to take the clockwork apart. The just take the hands and face off, (carefully pull the hands and the second hand off, carefully bend the tabs holding the face on) take the coil and point rod off, and then dip the whole works in a bath of Zippo fluid. Let sit for a couple of minutes, more if really grungy. Take it out, and allow to air dry. Don't use compressed air, you'll ruin the hairspring. Then once the movement is completely dry, take a toothpick and damp the end of it in sewing machine oil (or real clock oil) and lightly touch the pivots. Do not pool oil in the pivots, just a light dab to put a slight film over the pivot, nothing more. Be very careful of the balance wheel; it's sitting on a gimbal, and it will break with the slightest fiddling, so be very careful. The hairspring controlling the back and forth movement is very fragile, don't touch it and don't drop oil in it. With the balance wheel on a gimbal, carefully oil the pivot points, nothing more. Do not put oil on the gears, they don't need it, this is not a transmission. You'll know the clockwork will probably be OK if the balance oscillates with a twist of the wrist. Then move the lever down to the stop, and the movement should take off. Put the electrical back on, hook up to a battery charger, with red to positive and black to the clock frame. It should run for 2 minutes on a full charge shot. If there is nothing wrong with the balance, it should be a pretty uniform "tick-tick", if one tick is long and the other short, that implies the balance is off-kilter, probably hairspring issues, kinked or bent spring, requires either careful bending or replacement. Nine times out of ten, if the clockwork doesn't work, it's usually a balance related problem. If the balance is fine, then look for anything binding. If the hands are too close together and in contact, that will stop the clock. It requires a good deal of patience and thinking through the mechanism to troubleshoot a bad clockwork, it's not something for the fainthearted or easily discouraged. Hope this helps...and good luck!
It sounds like a Clockwork Orange LOL... Dont you find a battery charger causes more arcing being not a true sine wave shot of voltage. Wouldnt a true DC battery be better? Miniature stuff is fascinating! ws
...nice writeup...can't overemphasize "not to over oil it." Oil creates drag and many common oils are too viscous. I piddle with antique wall clocks and have found that a toothpick can sometimes hold too much oil...I use a pin or sewing needle to control drop size...
Agreed, I fix watches and use a proper pin oiler, for the average home mechanic and a car clock a damped toothpick is enough; if there's a drop on it, it's too much. I took a long time to wrap my mind around that concept, we're all taught to lube up every moving part and this goes against that philosophy. So speaking of old clocks, I've got this old Chauncey Jerome Steeple clock from 1856, (it still sort of runs) I haven't had the guts to try and strip it yet, (it's very dirty and looks like it's never been apart) most of the clocks I've done have been German mantle clocks which are pretty simple. Have you ever done one? If so, any pointers? I also rebuild Verge-Fusee pocket watches, so one wouldn't think this thing would be very tough to do...
...being a ham-handed gearhead with too many interests, I've kept my clock interest subdued. I've yet to attempt any major repair like re-bushing, keeping to clean/lube/adjust as I build confidence. I browse clock forums and part supplier pages for relevant info. Surprisingly, I've found parts on eBay. When I find "time" I continue bringing a Gilbert Coca Cola store clock back to its original state, and adding calendar function to a beat-up family Sessions store clock. As for pointers, sounds like you're already at or beyond where I am. I'm a graduate of the "Sears Parts Diagram" school of repair, where an exploded view tells me most everything I need to know. You just need to understand clock's movement and spring-powered wear. I don't work start-to-finish, so I use pics, drawings, and cut-and-paste to supplement my old-age memory...
I started fooling around with watches once the Buick engines got to be too heavy to swing around. I did play with clocks, I find working with chime mechanisms and the idea of having to re-bush those things a bit daunting. It's easier to press in new jewels on pivots than to ream out and re-bush a pivot. It's easy to make a hole bigger, not so to make it smaller again. I think I'm going to stick with watches, they don't make as much noise as a chiming clock can; my wife has threatened to destroy any or all of the chiming clocks that come in here. I had no interest in watches or clocks until about 5 years ago. I basically got screwed on the first pocket watch I ever bought (it was an 1864 English Lever fusee from Scotland with a busted chain and a buggered fusee) so I swore I'd get it running no matter what it took. It took a year of studying and accumulating books and parts. I got it running again.I worked (fought) with progressively older verge-fusees from the late 1700s to the mid 1850s before I discovered there were better and easier watches to play with, - ones that actually stayed working and had interchangeable parts, and American made quality. My oldest real runner dates back to 1768. The problem with all of those English made things is that they were essentially hand-made, no two are alike. So when parts go bad, you have to make them pretty much from scratch. I have a jeweler's lathe, but using that is way beyond my skill level, one day I'll get to manufacturing bits. Now I just play with American made pocket watches (still the best in the world) and I'm just getting into doing Swiss wristwatches. My next project is a Rolex Unicorn "trench watch" from 1915; it needs a new balance staff installed. Three turned up in the mail on Friday, so now it's a case of working up the gumption to take out the staking kit and start knocking miniature parts about. The new staff is about 5mm, so pretty tiny. Just cleaned up and tuned up a 1943 Hamilton 992b pocket watch, and re-cased an 1892 Seth Thomas 15 jewel movement into a nice sterling silver case. Both are now banging away happily on my bench. So it's all part of my education, I'm eventually going to hang my shingle out as a watch repairer. I could conceivably have enough work lined up for 3 years. The local vintage watch club has been watching my progress with increasing interest and encouragement over the past year. But I'm at least a year away from "going pro" in confidence and skill. I fix more than I wreck now; every time I strip something down I get better at it and see more things. The troubleshooting skills are coming along, I'm starting to accurately diagnose issues and fix them. Now it's down to getting good tools and making sure my old 1930's vintage L&R clock cleaning machine doesn't burn down. It's a fun hobby, I'm so glad I got into it just as my eyesight and dexterity started to fail due to old age.
...impressive...closest I've gotten to a watch is parents' German 400-day anniversary, tedious escapement in order to run that long...every once in a while, I entertain watch idea, but I lie down and it goes away, so many interests, so little time...
