Im running it. I installed all the pistons, and it turns over like velvet. My machinist said it will be off a bit, but nothing to worry about.
Did you by chance figure out how clearance you have between the rod and cam. Metal parts do expand when warm and moving........I've heard the top end of rod at high rpm can stretch .020 or more depending on rod. Not sure what the minute rod to cam clearness should be
No I haven't checked, I tried looking at the #1 when I gained clearance, I wanted to see "how much" room I had, but DAMN, its tuff to near impossible to see
You need one of those little round mirrors on a stick they sell at the auto parts stores for that, will make life so much easier.
Mark, To measure your cam to rod clearance, a nice fat roll of solder works well... just align it along the length of the rod and rotate the motor thru the contact zone.. it will compress the solder at the point of minimum clearance.. You might have to pop the piston on the same journal out, to get good access.. then measure the crushed area on the solder with a vernier caliper. Most of us like to see a min of .050 clearance. JW
Don't know about the cam to rods, but Mike at TA thought .020 from crank throw to roller cam lobe was sufficient.
Way too close. .060-.080 minimum. That's a time bomb. Once a little slop develops in the timing chain you'll be sweeping up parts.
It’s a good idea to degree he can 2 degrees tetarded, ensure rod cleArance and then 2 degrees advanced from your current setting so that if some timing slack develops or you re degree the cam you are still safe. And yes if you need to take more off the rods then re balance forsure.
Im doing more checking for sure before I put the pan on. I don't like the idea of taking more off the rods, but now is the time to do it if need be