Changing over from Points to HEI

This is regarding my 65 Sportwagon. Putting a Buick 350 this weekend. I'm using the original wiring harness. I want to make this as simple as possible.


Do I have to go with an internal voltage regulator if I go to HEI and what other changes do I need to do?

I did look up with switching over the regulator wiring and what wires get put togther.

Also does the help section at the auto parts store have the correct connectors for the distributor and the alternator?

Also are there going to be any extra wires from the alternator or is it a simple procedure?


Thanks.

 

If its a big cap GM HEI, then all it needs is 12v, the connector is marked on the distributor cap as is the tach wire.

However have you thought to keep your original distributor, and convert it to electronic? Like Pertronix or Crane Xri?
Ive had a Crane Xri conversion in my current car, 455, and my last car, 350 and have been very happy. Smoother running.
This would require no modification of the wiring harness.

My current 455 had a big cap HEI in it when I got it, and I wanted a stock looking distributor. Autozone sells a rebuilt distributor for about $35!
The Crane Xri kit was $70 and I installed myself.

 

I did a HEI conversion on my '74 chevy C20 pickup with the 454. That engine was fun.

If you still have the stock points system, you'll need to remove the resistor wire to the coil, and install a new wire from the fuse block 12V ignition circuit to power the HEI system. It'll have a plastic snap connector on the side of the distributor cap for the 12V wire connection. You should also disconnect the resistor wire from the bulkhead connector on the firewall.

After you change out the wire, you should just be able to drop in your new HEI distributor, set the timing, and go.

 

The 350 I bought didn't have a distributor in it when I purchased it. I figured HEI would be a little more reliable and I don't have to mess with points.

---------- Post added at 03:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:32 PM ----------

So if I disconnect the resistor on the firewall and run a new wire from the fuse box then I can use the external voltage regulator on the fire wall?

So I don't use the orginal red wire in the harness for the power wire to HEI?


If I disconnect the firewall resistor it won't mess with the voltage regulator?

 

Well if you go with a rebuilt stock style 1970'ish distributor, you can add the electronic kit which replaces the points. It was very easy to install.

If you compare...

350 distributor is $49 at Autozone

Cardone Reman/Distributor
For your 1970 Buick Gran Sport 5.7L 4BL OHV HP 8cyl
Price: $49.99
Part Number: 30-1813

The Crane XRi kit is $69 on Amazon
Crane Cams 750-1710 XR-i Ignition System for Chevrolet
by Crane Cams
Price: $69.87 Eligible for free shipping with Amazon Prime.

Distributor cap and coil cover - $19
Ignition Coil - $27
Plug wires - $30

Total $195 and no wiring mods



Or, if you decide on a Big cap HEI, its $122 at autozone

Cardone Reman/Distributor
For your 1975 Buick Lesabre 5.7L 4BL OHV 8cyl
Price: $122.99
+Core: $5.00
Part Number: 30-1896

Distributor cap and coil cover - $30
Ignition Coil - $23
Plug wires - $40


Total $216 with simple 12v wiring mod
any 12v source that powered with key in run and start position
I would not remove the resistance wire, someone may want to put it back one of these days

 

My Chevy C20 did not have a ballast resistor, it had a: "resistor wire." Same as my 67. The resistance is built into the wire, itself, in order to knock the 12V down to 9V to keep the points from burning. It's a specifically colored/braided wire in the harness.

HEI won't operate on 9V, it needs the full 12V. This is why you need to run a separate wire from the 12V circuit directly to the HEI ignition connector. The voltage regulator has nothing to do with any of this.

If you don't disconnect that resistor wire from the firewall, it can heat up and burn your wiring harness. It has a resistance of a few ohms, and the 12V from the charging system will make that wire start loading it like a 40-50W heating element.

I am speaking from experience: I left my resistor wire connected to the firewall on my '67, and when I started the engine with my new Pertronix Ignitor III system in place, I saw some smoke from the bell housing of my transmission. I thought it was some oil burning off the exhaust, but it was actually my wiring harness burning. You can keep the resistor wire in the harness if ever you want to switch back to points: but for HEI, just disconnect it from the bulkhead and cap it on both ends.

 

x2

 

Hi Brian. I have the connector for the HEI cap if you want it. Tach and Power wire together in One clip. Let me know and I'll get it out to you. I put an HEI on my 350 also.

PONCH

 

Some people say a mechanical voltage regulator alternator will
eventually blow HEI modules. Haven't done that experiment
myself, even my 62 got converted to a late 70s internal regulator
alternator.

Bruce Roe

 

Just another day of things not going right.........like usual.


I don't know what's going on here! The 300 CI engine had an issue after I took out the distributor and wouldn't run. That motivated me to put the 350 in in the car that I bought earlier this year.

As suggested I got rid of the resistance wire to the coil and to the starter since I switched over to HEI.\\

Motor now has brand new..........cap, rotor,coil,starter

Did the top dead center deal and put spark plug wire one right there. Tried starting it tonight but nothing............turns over and turns over but doesn't even try to fire. I'll check that one more time tomorrow and check the rest of the plugs wires again for the firing order. .
The only thing that isn't new is the module in the distributor. That may be changed tomorrow.

I went to try a volt meter that was brand new in the package that my father bought me about 8 years ago. I put a brand new Duracell 9v battery in after opening the brand new package and it doesn't work. Of course it doesn't say made in the USA. I just wanted to check to make sure it was reading 12 volts.


I might as well of not changed the engine at this point. I still have the same problem just now a 350.

I know it's something I did............no doubt. It's just irritating that I can't figure it out.

 

Hi Brian. Frustrating iisn't it. Did the connector I sent you work? Pull it off the Dist, strip a piece of wire, shove it into the 12V side put it on a light bulb, hold it on the side, ground it and if it lights you're good. When I did mine I removed both harnesses from the fusebox and unbolted it. Push the resistance wire through, push down on the tab and pull it out. Push the 12V wire through the hole and put a connector on it that'll connect on the other half of the fuse box. Bolt it back up and see if it works. I just taped up the end of the resistor wire and left it. I didn't have any special fuse box connector, just made one from a box of connectors I have. If your good with a set of needle nose pliers you can make one. That's what I did. I did the same thing on the Dist end. But it has a tab so it was easy. Sounds like you aint gitten 12V to the Dist. But to be honest, I wish I would have left my 300 in it. I have a 340 I'd like to put back in it. My ported heads and exhaust manifolds will fit and so will my 355 air cleaner. I also have a 425 and now have the adaptor motor mounts. But with my bad mental and physical condition that'll never happen. But I can always hope things will get better. I can always dream. Good Luck Man.

PONCH

 

Larry.............the wife won't help me turning the car over to figure out if it had spark. If she did she would probably find it funny if it zapped me and would keep going.





After taking the distributor back out and cleaning the contacts for the module and moving the wires 180 degrees..........It runs!!!!!!!!

I thought I had top dead center the original way. I swear it was on "0" when the valve was on the power stroke. Had the plug out and put a pencil in the hole and watched it move and lined it up with zero. I must be doing sometging wrong but I'm not messing with it any further. I do have to move some plug wires around since some are being stretched.

Now I have to finish putting the belts on etc.....................


Hey Ponch.........I did make it work but Accel must have a different size shape of cap for the plug. One side was rounded on the Accel one but I forced it in. Probably never come back out in one piece. But thanks for the plug I'll get some $$$ out to you for the postage.


I hope I can get it to the exhaust shop this week.

Also I have to get a new timing light my Penske from CIRCA 1969-1970 appears not to work anymore. I guess it's like expectancy isn't 40+ years.

 

It's running but not running good. Time to have it towed to a mechanic.

 

Could you post a link or part number for Autozone's rebuilt distributor? The only one I see on their website is a Cardone 30-1894 for $122.