Changing 1972 Skylark 350 Oil Gasket

Discussion in 'Wet behind the ears??' started by jcfarnham, Nov 1, 2009.

  1. jcfarnham

    jcfarnham Active Member

    I need to change my oil pan gasket. I've seen some threads/posts that suggest removing the two engine mount bolts and jacking the engine up to get clearance enough to remove the oil pan. I would like clarification - because i've done silly things that cost lots of time/money.

    - First, when they say place the jack under the harmonic balancer, exactly where does it need to be placed? I am actually resting the jack head up under the harmonic balancer wheel?
    - Second, one post mentioned being careful because strain could crack the ally tranny block - any advice on how to avoid that? How high do I have to raise the engine - 1-2" looks about right. If anyone can make that mistake, I can.:rolleyes:
    - Third. Do I need to remove the starter motor or are there any other components that might foul when the engine is being lifted?


    Thanks

    Jon
     
  2. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Starter needs to be removed.

    Wire harness block that runs along the borrom of the block needs to be unbolted and moves out of the way.

    If you have a single exhaust, it will probably have to be dropped off the manifolds to get clearance.

    Remove the fan and/or fan shroud.

    Remove the two engine mount bolts.

    Place a block of wood on top of your jack, and place it directly under the harmonic balancer.

    All you need is a couple inches so you can slide the pan backwards and clear the crank.

    It's a pain in the butt, but only takes a few hours.
     
  3. jcfarnham

    jcfarnham Active Member

    Awesome! Thanks
     
  4. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Be careful when you jack the engine up that you don't rip a power steering line in half. Don't ask me how I know!:Dou:
     
  5. Couch

    Couch '67 GS400 Guy

    We did this on my sons GS350 car, it went really well with no major issues! We raised it enough so that it was just touching the firewall tunnel (tranny), and nothing broke or complicated things. Mike
     
  6. 71skylark3504v

    71skylark3504v Goin' Fast In Luxury!

    I have done this many times on my 71 and I'm going to comment on your post. With all due respect.:beers2:


    Starter needs to be removed.
    I don't think so.

    Wire harness block that runs along the borrom of the block needs to be unbolted and moves out of the way.
    No, Stop, Don't!

    If you have a single exhaust, it will probably have to be dropped off the manifolds to get clearance.
    Maybe, I always had duals.Disconnect the exhaust from headers/manifolds!

    Remove the fan and/or fan shroud.
    You can, but I never had to.

    Remove the two engine mount bolts.

    Place a block of wood on top of your jack, and place it directly under the harmonic balancer.
    DO NOT use the balancer!!! I ruined one this way, and I had TONS of "fun" trying to find another one locally. The problem is you can make outer ring slip off. After that, you have to have someone professionally fix the balancer, or get another one. Use the crank pulley.

    All you need is a couple inches so you can slide the pan backwards and clear the crank.

    It's a pain in the butt, but only takes a few hours.

    It could be your rear main seal that's leaking. Once your pan is off it is easy to change that too.
     
  7. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I was going to say the same thing, do NOT raise the front of the engine by the balancer, use the crank pulley. If you use the balancer, the rubber ring can get smashed and ruin the balancer. Use a short piece of 2x4 under the crank pulley and GENTLY raise the jack. To remove the oil pan, I think with the starter out of the way, it would be easier to remove the pan and clean the block rail. Mark
     
  8. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Ok, I misspoke when I said balancer. When the crank pulley is installed on the car, that's about the only place he CAN use the jack.

    I'm pretty sure the starter has to come off to get to the pan bolts.

    I forgot, the transmission flywheel inspection cover has to come off, too.


    I told him to remove the fan or shroud because if you lift the engine up a couple inches he runs the risk of breaking the shroud or bending the fan.


    I might be mistaken about the wire harness rail, maybe a big block only thing...


    Just keep removing parts until you can get to all your bolts:laugh::Do No: That's how I learned. I've done several, now. It never gets any more fun.
     
  9. 71skylark3504v

    71skylark3504v Goin' Fast In Luxury!

    Every time I did this, when the fan prevents the engine from lifting further, that was when I had enough clearance to pull the pan.:laugh: Starter is not in the way of the pan bolts.:TU: Have plenty of brews, and it'll be fun.:beers2:
     
  10. jcfarnham

    jcfarnham Active Member

    My fan shroud is already off so that shouldn't be a problem. I'm not sure where to find the timing inspection cover, so advice there would be appreciated.

    I love this forum because you guys give such great advise. My last project on this car was the replacing the timing cover and dealing with bolts broken off in the block. It took me a couple months and several fingernails to fix that one.
     
  11. 71skylark3504v

    71skylark3504v Goin' Fast In Luxury!


    I think you are talking about the torque converter inspection cover. It is held to the transmission with 4 bolts.
     
  12. Carlisle72

    Carlisle72 . . .But, these go to eleven.

    Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I just wanted to thank everyone who posted here.. JUST followed this advice, and was able to get the job done. You guys rule. :D

    What I found (to corroborate with each of you), and for any other future readers:

    -Mine's a '72 with the 350 4 barrel
    -Flywheel inspection cover came off with ease
    -My fan shroud is missing, so that wasn't in the way
    -Starter did not have to be removed
    -My single exhaust had to come off at manifolds, that was the most difficult part for me. The bolts were stubborn..
    -After removing motor mount bolts , I used a couple pieces of wood to raise the motor slowly by pulley, as recommended
    -I jacked motor up about 2-2.5", and the pan practically fell out.

    Now, just a whole lot of cleaning..

    Cheers, all.

    -Jake
     
    Max Damage and Michael_G like this.

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