Car won't start, Key hard to turn, How do you get ign. lock out???

Okay
My 68 Riv won't start, the battery was tested and was good, but when I turn the key I recognized it was harder to turn then usual. Its harder to turn and when you turn it, you get nothing at all, dead silence. Is it the ignition lock?? I tried getting the ignition lock/switch out for 3 hours, I tried with a rod and kept looking for that pin in that small whole near the key. How do I get it out, or what else could it be?

Thanks

 

I had someone hit the starter with a hammer and give it a try but still nothing.

 

Speaking of Diagrams, do you know where I could find the manuals for my 68 Riv online at a good price? I have access to Chilton online, yet they dont have the early Rivieras.

 

Thanks, will take a look at them, What about those ones they sell on CD, same thing, or are the books better?

 

LOL, those are good reasons for the books. I like the books better as well. I plan on restoring it someday even though people laugh at me for wanting to do so.

 

They'll be laughing on the other cheek, once you gitter done Mike !
As Jason stated, a set of manuals (Shop/Chassis) is a very good investment, and they will have
a good portion of the info you will need for your resto, once you get there. :TU:

 

Frankly it sounds as though the ignition switch is broken and binding.

 

Thanks guys!

I think the switch is broken as well. I was going to buy one and replace both the switch and lock cylinder. But I can't get them out.:ball: I tried for 2 hours to get the lock cylinder out but no luck with a thin rod and paper clip, couldn't find the spring.

 

Can't remember exactly how Mike, but think it was with the key in the ignition lock cylinder, turned to the accessory position, and then insert the paper clip, and the lock cylinder popped out easily.
Then you turn the knotched threaded collar to remove the switch housing - there is also a phillips screw at the top of the dash bezel insert that holds the bezel and the switch into the dash. The connector on the wiring harness can then be removed from the switch. o No:
. . . it's been a while !

 

I don't know if this is true for big cars but can the shifter arms be binding up and causing this problem to the ignition cylinder and not being completely in park position? I had a bad bushing on the frame for the shifter arms/linkage causing the same problem with a hard ignition switch and non-start problem on my GS. A plastic $2 bushing from Mike Garrison fixed the problem. Just thought I throw that out there before you take that ignition cylinder out.
Lon

 

I am not sure, but I tried shifting in neutral and back into park and giving it a go but nothing.

Rivman, you are right with the instructions, but thats what I have been trying to do, but no luck with finding the spring or it popping out. that round switch housing, is it suppose to be towards the loose side, or still the tight side. for example it stops at a certain point when loosening it, then do you insert the rod, or does it have to be tight and then you instert the paper clip.

 

You have to go under the car and play with the linkage to see if it is loose. It should be pretty tight. Have someone move it through the gears while you watch to see if the linkage moves around. My problem was the arm that attached into the frame. There was suppose to be a nylon/plastic bushing in there for the arms free travel but it was completely gone giving the arm too much play.
Lon

 

Okay, I got the lock out, but how about the switch now? there are 2 clips, and a big metal piece infront, so how would I get that switch out?

 

Lon - the ignition switch for a '68 is in the dash, and is not affected by the gear selector 'cept for the starter neutral switch,
which is adjustable. Buick added the switch to the steering colume in '69. :TU:

 

This is from the shop manual Mike:

1. Remove ignition switch lock cylinder (in accessory position).
. . . completed, that's where your at!

2. Remove switch retaining nut.
. . . that's the big fancy collar with all the knotches in it, and it fastens the switch to the plastic dash insert.There is a special tool to undo the fancy nut, but you can use a flat thin screwdriver blade, and very lightly tap the collar ccw to loosen the nut. The plastic? switch bezel is fastened to the dash by one small philips screw in the very top (12-o-clock position) of the indent of the dash bezel.
Removing this plastic/metal bezel will give you a bit more room to extract the switch and connector !

3. Lower switch and unplug from connector by depressing retainer tabs.
. . . as I recall, it pulls up, off the top of the switch.

4. Install ignition switch by reversing the above steps. o No:
. . . as I recall there is also a fibreoptic lighting cable in there somewhere that lights the switch when the dash lights are on, so you know where to stick the key for night driving.

The next time it's a lot easier ! :beer :TU: