We installed the motor, clutch, pressure plate, bell housing and M20. Trans was a little hard to push in (had to lay on the ground and kick it in) and expected that was because of the new clutch plus I forgot to lube the spline just a bit...... I never checked the clutch fork before we dropped it in... while installing it we heard a random loud ping that sounded like it was in the tranny (sounded like something hitting aluminum). Got to the point of hooking up linkage last night and the clutch fork wont barely move and definitely not move far enough to get the adjusting rod attached. If I look in the bell housing and try to push the fork by hand I can see the bearing move back and forth about 1/16 of an inch so it doesn't look like its totally stuck.. Could the throw-out bearing be too far back? or should I try to pry the bearing/fork through the bottom... I am afraid of damaging the fork or bearing... Really don't want to remove the tranny again. Thanks for any ideas.
Yes, same motor (rebuilt and new TA pilot bushing). Same trans, same bellhousing...all original components reinstalled after the M20 and motor rebuilt.. (except new clutch, pressure plate and throw-out bearing)
I was putting the T-10 on the nailhead in my 'lark, and I have the GS bellhousing that is fully enclosed so you cannot see inside the back/pressure plate area or the release bearing when it's installed. Since I was also putting in a hydralic clutch, I removed the realeas bearing shaft and used the hole in the side for the hydralic line. Well, with the beginning of "oldtimers" and being distracted by having to switch between areas of the car to work on when waiting on a part that broke while working on one section, I "forgot" to connect the supply line, and had only run the bleed line out the hole. I did not want to have to pull the tranny all the way out, for several reasons, just to install a small line, got 4 each of grade 8 bolts about 6 inches long and removed and installed the bolts one at a time, then slid the tranny back about 4 inches and was able to get the line in and push the tranny back in place. From the time I raised the car, pulled the driveshaft, and put the drive shaft back in and dropped the car back on the floor was about 30 minutes. So, you might be able to do the same thing. Maybe get a few different length bolts. As long as you do not shift the clutch plate out of alignment (and I would think that would not be any problem if you don't loosen the pressure plate bolts), you should be able to see what is going on and fix it. Another thing I found was the pilot bushing on mine had the center pilot hole "reduced" in size when I drove it in, since I did not use a shaft type tool to press it, but the old flat side of a socket and made sure it went in square, but it deformed it just enough to make it too tight, so I got a bolt near the diameter and used 600 grit and oil to lap it in until it was right. So, if you can, check the pilot bushing center hole to be sure it's not too tight. And those tranny "slide/rail" bolts have a forever home in my toolbox.
Thanks. I am thinking to get the longer bolts and slide the tranny back first... man, don't know what could be happening...
I bet I know....You probably installed the bearing on the fork incorrectly. The lip of the bearing is probably wedged in between the fork and the clip. Its a common mistake so don't feel bad if you did it
Ok, Tranny came out much easier than it went in. I cut the head off 5 inch bolts to slide the trans back to keep it relatively straight. This is what I found... Please take a look at the pics and let me know if you see anything odd as far as the way it was installed as I think I had it installed correctly...? I sec the throw-out bearing lip looks bent. It still spins evenly and slides on the shaft the same.... I also noticed that when the clutch forks "clicked" in to where it seems like its on the proper position it is an inch or 2 to the left and not centered. It almost seems as if the problem was that when we installed the trans, the clutch fork was forced to the right to align in the center and when it is in this position it won't moved back and forth properly. How do I know if the fork is sitting in the correct spot (besides making sure it is centered? I basically slid the fork over the stud until it felt like it was "home" Still really stumped....
Bearing is too far into the fork. The pads of the fork should be right in the middle of the bearing like this- And it should be able to do this-
Does the triangle notch in the bearing have anyhring to do with it besides stopping it from spinning? Does that notch slide into the retainer on the fork in a certain position?
Right, you don't want the bearing spinning on the fork, so they make the inside diameter with a "peak" so it kinda gets caught on the fork. I really don't think it matters where the peak goes. The bearing pretty much stays there. Not that you cant knock it off with the input shaft if your clumsy. You would think it gets installed they way you had it but the bearing needs to swivel so when you depress the clutch the fork can move
That definitely is my issue... Will give it a shot in the morning and let you know how it goes... Thanks Jason... I feel like such an idiot always asking you guys for so much help...
