Can someone please explain to me the internal alternator conversion!!!!

how do i test #3?

 

Not a good set-up. You've disabled the remote voltage sensing designed-into the stock wire harness.

Just follow the diagram and notes in my first post. You're most of the way there already.

 

Voltmeter - to battery - or any good ground; voltmeter + to the metal terminal connected to the red wire of the internal regulator pigtail.

 

the red goes down into the harness and comes back up to the regulator from what i was told then as is now jumps to the blue wire and back to the alternator.

 

how can i get in there without disconnecting the system???

 

1. battery is about 12.5v

2. around 14v

3. a little less than 14v

 

if i were to emove the black wire from the back of the alt to the battery, would this potentially solve the problem. seems as though that is out of place.

 

seems that this wire to batt isnt in any diagrams either. maybe is houdl remove it and see what happens.

 

where on a 67 can i find this junction block?

 

ok it hink by removing the wire on the back of the alt to the battery may have solved my problem. keeping my fingers crossed. i guess its called a 3 wire conversion for a reason :/

 

The junction block is probably also the horn relay.

I would not expect that removing the wire from the alternator output to the battery cable connector is going to fix anything.

At 12.5 volts OCV, your battery is only about 3/4 charged. I'd be charging the battery and seeing if the problems go away.

 

what should it be at with everyhting turend off?

 

Not sure if this help, or work, but recently did the same on my car. Due to it being nearly impossible to find an external regulator alternator out here, that can handle dual electric fans, and maybe and amp for the stereo. Picked up a powermaster 100 amp alternator at the local parts store, got on the phone called Year one and ordered a $25, internal regulator conversion piece (not wanting to cut into my harness,"scared really"). Connected the blue and white wires to a new adaptor fiitting. and know hopeing and praying it all works when i finally turn the key.

 

No I am not, that is how it came factory. I have not changed a thing.
Its all original.

 

thapachuco

Id lose all that jumper stuff, probably your problem.
Though I have no idea why your told to do that.

Its suppose to be simple, the "1" wire alternator.
Why folks change.

The way I told you is how my car came form the factory, nothing has been changed or modded.

 

Ill take you some pics and find the chassie book tomorrow.

Its not suppose to be that hard.

though I bet somewhere in the jump config is your problem.

 

Ok I got some pics in the dark, probably helps to see.

First pic points out the red wire in the black plastic covering that goes straight from the battery to the back of the Alt.

2nd pic shows that same wire, and the red wire from the 2 wire plug going to it also.

Only those two wire hook to the back of the alt.

The other wire disapears into the harness.

Now you don't have to hook it up like that 100%, but the bigger wire on the back of the alt should go right to the battery. No jumper stuff.

 

so what happens to the ext. regulator connections? thats part of the conversion. and when you say the other wire dissappears into the harness, where does it go/connect to?

this is not factory for me. i had todo this because my regulator kept blowing out.

 

If you kept blowing them and you alt is running hot.
Id bet the problem is in the wiring your trying to daisy chain.

Leave the two wires for the plug hooked up as is, I bet they are fine.
but run the wire off the back of the alt straight to the battery.

Id bet you get no more heat problems.

I wouldn't daisy chain the power out of the back of the alt through all that, it should go right to the battery.

 

My apologies, I missed that you have an '80. No remote voltage sensing on them.

The earlier cars did have remote sensing; and there's no good reason to bypass it. There is a good reason to KEEP it, though--the factory used undersized wiring that had more-than-optimum resistance. Remote voltage sensing provided extra power to overcome the resistance.

The whole point of NOT running the alternator output directly to the battery is to shorten up the current path to the typical running-vehicle loads. Again, less resistance through the wire harness.