Buinicorn my 1964 wagon

Discussion in 'Drag'n Wagons' started by superbuickguy, May 21, 2017.

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  1. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    Not a rant - simply wondering if anyone else is dealing with this.


    I have a Miller Elite helmet I bought early 2014. It has worked as expected since new, but recently the dimming function seems to be possessed. My first thought was battery, and I replaced it, that helped but it still either doesn't dim or dims then doesn't come back to see-through. Replaced the battery again, replaced the protective lens, dusted (gently) the lens and sensors... no joy. Anyone else dealing with this? I've reached out to Miller but probably won't hear back for at least a couple days.... are sensors a wear item? I would hope that replacing $400 helmets every 5 years is not the answer.... of course, if it is.... what do you like? this helmet is starting to wear on the pivots so I won't be terribly upset to give it a full update (I like that it doesn't fog easily).
     
  2. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    FedUp got me again.... this time they added a 45 degree bent the windshield channel piece no pictures at least not yet but that slows me a bit

    and for the record, 10 out of 10.... that is the number of past, serial deliveries that have been screwed up by FedUp.... interestingly, there is zero for UPS, USPS, OnTrac, or Prime....

    and before you ask, I normally don't order from JEGs because it's a minimum of 7 days for a delivery - that said, price can make a difference and it did on something else so I ordered the windshield part while I was at it.... with predictable results.... totally my fault because normally I demand anyone but - but this time, sigh....
     
  3. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    To FedUp, this would be the weirdest thing.... but here it goes

    UPS called yesterday to arrange delivery of a windshield to my house at 5 pm. Guess what! they did AND IT WASN'T BROKEN and delivered by someone who speaks english. All the way from somewhere in Florida.... in 6 days (holiday included).... FedUp will never believe it... I've told them such things exist but they are certain it doesn't..... I didn't take pictures, though....
     
  4. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    time to reduce the boxes on the floor
    [​IMG]
    amazing how many holes are going to get covered up by this
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    some primer, some fitting and a bunch of tacks
    [​IMG]
    rustbegone
    [​IMG]
    window even fits (bonus)
    [​IMG]
    fine tuning aside - it fits
    [​IMG]
     
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  5. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    projects.

    my plan with this car is a fast, street sleeper. Sleepers come in many flavors, from "wow, can believe your Buick passed me on the inside of that corner while I'm driving my Audi" to ones that take someone else's lunch money (or lunch car). I haven't decided yet where the line is going to be, it needs to handle and stop - which I've done. However, do I put a 500 hp or 1100 hp motor in it? that I haven't yet decided the difference in cost is substantial however a DD will never support itself on lunch cars; but can make really good money in other situations....

    and here is the danger of project creep - if this is a lunch money car, believe it or not, it's mostly motor work that gets the nod - however, "why don't I just" then creeps in - at 1100 hp this is an 8s car. To run it at the track with the lights on - needs a cage and a bunch of other things... but all of those things are chump change when considering the motor - I figure 1100 hp costs 20k for just the motor (not the fuel system, turbo, trans, diff, etc) - 500 - I could cobble something together (not DD) for less then 7k all in....

    decisions - but the point - knowing your decision points can make or break a build... I could do foundation work (larger fuel system, stronger trans, axles, etc) as money and time allows - but if I'm flipping that's money I'm giving away...

    and for those who are going 'but but but' - the 50 Buick, already has a 20k motor.... it and my FJ40 are keepers, the wagon and my Corvette are pleasant distractions .... though I must admit that I'm tempted to go put some Aussies back on their boat with a GM V6
     
  6. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    Kevin Yates and I have been talking.... this is his suggestion after talking to me... yeah, a lot of money, but ignore that part since I'm not asking for contributions (but would gladly accept :) )

    Piston to Deck Height Knowledge of the 97-08 L26/32/36/67 Buick 3800 V6.

    Stock Configuration:
    Deck Height = 8.522" Factory Stock
    Comp Height = 1.194" Stock
    Rod C/C = 5.640" Stock
    1/2 Crank Stroke = 1.700" Stock Crank.
    (1.194" + 5.640" + 1.700" = 8.534")
    (8.534" -- 8.522" = + 0.012")
    Piston is protruding above the deck + .012"
    Minimum Head Gasket Required .051".
    Piston to Head Clearance = 0.039".

    Stock Crank, Rods with JE Pistons:
    Deck Height = 8.500" Squared
    Comp Height = 1.194" JE
    Rod C/C = 5.640" L67/32 or ZZP H-Beam.
    1/2 Crank Stroke = 1.700" Stock Crank.
    (1.194" + 5.640" + 1.700" = 8.534")
    (8.534" -- 8.500" = + 0.034")
    Piston is protruding above the deck + .034"
    Minimum Head Gasket Required .074"
    Piston to Head Clearance = 0.040"

    Stock Crank, Rod with Diamond Pistons.
    Deck Height = 8.500" Squared
    Comp Height = 1.205" Diamond
    Rod C/C = 5.640" L67/32 or ZZP H-Beam.
    1/2 Crank Stroke = 1.700" Stock Crank.
    (1.205" + 5.640" + 1.700" = 8.545"
    (8.545" -- 8.500" = + 0.045")
    Piston is protruding above the deck + .045"
    Minimum Head Gasket Required .085"
    Piston to Head Clearance = 0.040"

    KYRE Configuration # 1
    Deck Height = 8.500" CNC Squared.
    Piston Comp Height = 1.160" ROSS
    Rod C/C = 5.638" KYRE H-Beam.
    1/2 Crank Stroke = 1.700" Stock Crank.
    (1.160" + 5.638" + 1.700" = 8.498")
    (8.500" -- 8.498" = -- 0.002")
    Piston to Deck Height = -- 0.002"
    Minimum Head Gasket Required 0.040"
    Piston to Head Clearance = 0.042"

    KYRE Configuration # 2
    Deck Height = 8.500" CNC Squared.
    Comp Height = 1.200" ROSS
    Rod C/C = 5.600" KYRE H-Beam.
    1/2 Crank Stroke = 1.700" Stock Crank.
    (1.200" + 5.600" + 1.700" = 8.500")
    (8.500" -- 8.500" = -- 0.000")
    Piston to Deck Height 0.000"
    Minimum Head Gasket Required 0.040".
    Piston to Head Clearance = 0.040"

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    OR............ you could have the top of the pistons milled to get you to zero deck so you don't need the specialty gaskets?

    WOW, those have a short deck height! An extra inch would be perfect, would even be able to add a little more stroke and a longer rod with that inch!

    Have you considered using a sbb 300? You can put a stroked sbb 350 crank(or a billet crank?) and a set of nascar take out rods in it to make it 362 CID.

    Get a set of the TA Rover heads to top it off but the down side would be that you would have to make your own intake. By the looks of what you have done so far, making your own intake would be a breeze for you?

    The sbb v8 blocks are stronger than the BBB blocks and would handle more power than them before they would break plus they have 2 more cylinders than the v6 you're considering! I have read here that the TA Rover heads have the potential with porting to flow 300 intake port CFM and throw boost on top of that 362 cubes and look out!

    If you go distributor less you can even run the front cover with the crank driven oil pump from that later model v6 or do some cut and welding to combine 2 covers to make one that has the crank driven pump and the distributor hole.;)
     
  8. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    the gaskets are for the twin turbos, the pistons are custom and are built to spec. What amazes me about this build is the use of stock (massaged) heads.... usually stock doesn't have the flow

    Just like grandma, BBB benefit from a girdle.... their biggest issue is thin wall castings, it's why my turbo 455 is sleeved to 430 size... but with that said, they are not competitive where I'm going to play (hard to believe that 900 hp isn't enough, but it isn't)

    there's a myriad of reasons not to use a 300 which include: poor oiling and heads that cannot flow....

    I've considered building a Rover based 300 (300 crank in a Rover block) - but this isn't the build for it. The mains in Rover blocks are cross bolted - which gives more strength, perhaps with a flat plane crank it could be made to work.... but still, this is a drag racing vehicle in sheep's clothing. V6 Turbo is the choice. Not to mention the other issue which is bigger isn't necessarily better.
     
  9. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    The TA Rover heads are a direct bolt on to a sbb 300 block that can be ported to 300 CFM, that's not enough with boost?(225 intake CFM out of the box!) 300 CFM, 362 cubes and 25 PSI should get you competitive!:cool:

    You can even get a girdle for the sbb if you think you're going to want to push it further than the 1,021 that the cast iron headed sbb 350 made without a girdle.

    Look what the sbb 350 stroker(now a 370) did;

    http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/the-dyno-numbers-are-in.200499/

    That is around a 50% more HP increase with a measly 6PSI of boost! They later cranked it up to 750 HP I heard but we'll need to wait for Sean's book to come out to know for sure and the rest of the story about the car. With only 235 in. and 195 ex. CFM flow with factory iron heads!

    If a factory sbb 350 block can handle over 1,000 HP so can a sbb 300 block!:eek: I would go with a billet crank if you want that much though. There are oiling mods that can be done to the sbb 300, same as the sbb 350 and BBBs as well because they all share the same crappy oiling system until they're modified.

    Here is the sbb 350 over 1,000 HP build, still using factory cast iron heads;

    http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/1021-hp-from-buick-350-ran-8s-in-the-quarter.210988/

    Plus the sbb 300 is period correct for the car.:cool: You can say it has the stock factory and period correct engine in it that you just threw a couple of turbos on it!;)

    But if you have your heart set on the v6 I'll understand, just wanted you to have an engine option that no one would suspect you can make power with that you actually can!:)(plus that period correct, those cars came with those dare to be different, type of deal):cool:

    The Rover block build isn't what you're looking for with this car, block is too weak even with its cross bolted mains. Would be ok in something much lighter though that you didn't care if in it was competitive.
     
  10. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Oh yeah, you can even alter LS turbo headers to fit the TA Rover heads without to much fabrication, cut off LS flange, position pipes with a fire wrench to be welded to a fabricated TA Rover flange at the angle you want it to be at.

    You could even get one of those complete turbo kits they sell for LS engines to alter and use on the sbb 300 if you wanted too.

    Just because you don't hear of people making big power with sbb engines very often doesn't mean they're not capable.:cool:
     
  11. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    Sure, with enough money and time you can do pretty much anything... so you wouldn't do what I'm doing - I've got a suggestion for you.... let's find out which is faster at Drag Week 2020... see you there? :)

    and let's not forget, this car came with a 225 V6 so I'm well within the family.... at least it's not a stinking Ford Barra motor (said in full jest - the person likely to be my helper in 2020 has close ties to those people) they bring their 2nd string 6 cyl. here, and I'm getting tired of listening to them ;) go on and on... they'd whine if I put my TT 430 Buick motor in it.

     
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  12. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Sorry, not enough time or $$$ for me for that challenge right now, but maybe by 2022 I might have something together? It might be with my '64 Nailhead car though? Not sure I want to cage this one though? I do have a spare frame for my other '64 that may be the one to get a sbb 300 stroker? And not opposed to putting a cage in that one either, time will tell.

    I still need to swap the frame in my '65 Impala, this one is first and then there are my K-5 Blazers that I would like to get to one of these years as well.:rolleyes: And then there is my Coupe Deville is sitting there calling for attention!:mad: There's not enough time!

    Not to mention my '85 Georgey Boy 32' motorhome that I want to convert into a car hauler. And then there is my '67 Chevelle SS that needs a whole lot of lovin. And almost forgot about my '72 Skylark convertible that is already on the rotisserie waiting to be welded!:rolleyes:

    This year is construction though, hoping next year will be working on my junk pile to turn it back into cars!:eek::D

    And did not know or forgot this was a v6 car, didn't think they came that way thought they were sbb 300 or Nailhead only as a station wagon?

    Anyway, I was just pointing to another engine option as a suggestion to consider if not with this car, maybe the next one?:)
     
  13. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    nice thing about my builds, everyone can see what they wouldn't do on theirs ;)
     
  14. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    It would be fun to go run drag week with a bunch of Buick cronies :)

    my next 'car' (after I finish the 76 427 Corvette, do whatever I'm going to do with the engine in the FJ40, finish the 50 Buick Sedanet, and finish the 79 Fiat Spider (with the twin turbo Cadillac CTS motor)) will likely be a Kitfox airplane - and truthfully it will probably be 'next'
    76 427 Corvette with the 2010 Camaro SS rear suspension and 2013 Corvette front suspension
    [​IMG]

    FJ40
    [​IMG]

    the 50 Sedanet is my avatar

    there are other projects as well - such as moving from Sodom on the sound Washington to Spokane....
     
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  15. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    LOL!!:D:D:D

    Not true, I'm sure I'll come around?:)

    Never been much of a less than a v8 guy but know a lot of power can be made with even 2 less cylinders than the v6. Some of those turbo 4 banger guys are in the 8s with a full weight ricer car around 3,400 lbs with a cage and the other safety equipment.

    I considered doing something WAY different and put one of those turbo 4 bangers in one of my cars but couldn't talk myself into it.:eek: The engine bay just wouldn't look right with a tiny 4 banger in it with a turbo half the size of the engine!:rolleyes::D:D

    I watched that video and if 9s are all you are shooting for like the car in the video you shouldn't have a problem with the v6 build. I even read that people have made 2,000 plus HP with a TA Buick v6 banger block and heads with tons of boost according to the downloadable TA catalog. But its a v6, bleck yucky!:D:D The cool factor just isn't there for me I guess even though its WAY cool how they can run. I would always be thinking as I hit myself in the head "I could of had a V8" if I built a v6.:D:D(sorry, couldn't resist:D)

    I think the TA v6 block can handle that much power is because it doesn't make the block twisting torque like an engine with more cubes would with the same amount of boost is its secret to it not breaking.

    How much power can that factory block handle making before it wants to break in half?
     
  16. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    you can drive nails with a sledgehammer but your finger nails will appreciate something a bit more refined. 7.49 is the limit - that's where a funny car cage is required, I can do this with a V6, an US V6 - tuners are all "well, US can make V8s but they don't know anything about anything less...." oh really? I say grandpa has something to tell you..... stock block, stock heads and watching foreigners cry.... what's not to love about that? I have V8 noises, solid roller cam 427 and side pipes - the noise is heavenly, but beating them in their own game is pretty cool too.
     
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  17. JoeBlog

    JoeBlog Platinum Level Contributor

    78CA0638-A0C1-494C-87EC-A38AD1BCEC90.jpeg
    I do like me some FJ. And some Buick. So I got both. Glad to see another FJ owner here!
     
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  18. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    not much that came from Toyota left - but they were what got me into 4wheeling and I love them in all forms. What's funny, I built the current one as the 'one to rule them all' and it fully does - but it's made wheeling almost kind of boring - sure there's pucker but I like the challenge of getting to the destination and there isn't a place this one can't get (well, beside its drinking habit which limits its range).... funny because I've been looking at doing a restoration of an early (pre-65) one ...
     
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  19. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Ahh NOW I understand the intent, carry on.

    I get it now, it would be to easy to beat them with a v8 is what you're saying, so instead you want to dominate them with a USA V6.:cool:

    I'm on board now, kick them ricer's ass's 6 banger to 6 banger!:)
     

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