Jason . One thing no one so far has mentioned is that the wheel center might not be supporting the wheel itself and relying on the wheel studs to keep the wheel on . Saw this on Buicks back at the dealer in the early 70's . Especially on Estate Wagons . The wheel center hole is 1/4 inch larger than the hub . A wheel needs the hub for support . Now I know a lot of people are going to say , " I've had wheels only held on by the studs and nuts and I've NEVER had a problem . """ They were just lucky . I've seen it on cars and up to 10 wheel trucks.
I'm going to respectfully disagree. The hub does not carry any load. Whether a wheel is hub or lug centered (defined by whether it has flange or tapered seat nuts) the force of the nut clamping the wheel to wheel mounting surface (WMS) and the interaction of those two surfaces based on the design characteristics of the wheel carries 100% of the load. The hub is for centering only. If that were not the case and if the hub did carry any load. There would necissarily be some type of movement on that surface and wheels and/or hubs would be wear items just as you do see when the lugs are not sufficiently torqued. From a load standpoint, once you get inside the bolt circle, it's no man's land. This isn't just my opinion - I've designed wheels and this is proven out not only in computer modeling, but in practice and has been taught to me by several long time wheel engineers, one of whom currently owns a wheel testing facility.
This got me thinking.... The local tire store I go to make a "show" of using the torque wrench on the nuts and then again when you bring it back in 100 or so miles to have them re-checked to show they they are using it. Now I am thinking for all I know the nuts are impacted on, way over tight, and the torque wrench will "click" at whatever setting they set it at but the nuts may be on way tighter.
One of the mechanics at work says that all aluminum wheels need to be torqued. So she impacts them on and then sets a torque wrench to 100 and uses it on each stud. I asked her how she knew that they weren't torqued to 120 or 150. She said that they can't be because the torque wrench was set to 100!
I always put on that show for customers but for real. Only issue & so I always explain this to them is that after torquing them in the correct sequence (8 lug is a little different than 4, 5, or 6) I'm paranoid of missing one so I go around in a circle just to double check and I don't want them to think I'm doing it incorrectly. First mechanic's helper job I got when I was 19 the shop owner asked me one question - How do lug nuts get tightened and he wasn't referring to using a torque wrench. Head mechanic was a Chevy guy and I watched him as he used an impact gun on the head bolts on his own engine! He never did check them with a torque wrench, lol.
I can tell you there is no different spec between steel wheels and aluminum. My 3/4 ton chevy is 140 with either wheel. Big trucks are 450 plus with steels or alcoa rims. On another note speaking about Chrysler rims I'm surprised no one has mentioned their god awful lugnuts.. anyone who has turned a wrench must know the awful swollen lugnuts with the tin cover.. total POS design..
No difference - Based on stud diameter (bolt stretch). Look in the owner's manual on any car where both steel and aluminum wheels were available & the torque spec is the same.
I wonder what the stud dia. is? My 2000 & 2013 Camrys are 77 - I'd suspect 12mm. On PLT (Passenger/Light Truck) I do see variations from manufacturer to manufacturer even for the same stud diameter, variations for the same stud diameter based on wheel diameter, variations between lug and hub centric wheels for the same stud diameter, and contradicting my earlier post on rare occasion (Sprinter Vans come to mind) between steel and aluminum. On the big truck stuff it's pretty standard based on stud diameter. For anyone who has never torqued wheels on big truck, doing it by hand with a torque wrench is a good workout.
If it can be shown that a shop let the vehicle out with two broken studs, my guess would be that the vehicle owner should involve a lawyer.
I've never had a need for these. Looks like you're still supposed to use a torque wrench after using sticks? Is that correct?
You can - there are several brands, I just picked a pic. Some can be used on an impact and limits the torque. I've been to shops that used them and they do not check with a TW. From Husky specs: "Bars are designed for use with both cordless and pneumatic impact wrenches" From Steelman: "1/2 in. drive - both male and female ends are 1/2 in. drive for use with heavy-duty impact wrenches and sockets"
When I started wrenching at the Ford dealership back when I was 20, I was the designated tire guy as that's the low man on the totem pole. I didn't have torque sticks for the first few months then after about 200 sets of wheels/tires a guy figures out whatever he can to speed the process along. Still got the same set, and they still check out with the torque wrench after thousands and thousands of beatings with the old IR 434B I got with my MAC box at 19 years old.
