was tearing down my sons 1973 455 engine yesterday and broke almost all the small bolts in timing cover for water pump,next i heated up the exhaust bolts and broke 3 of those off in the head,2 are sticking out and one is broke off flush,any good ideas on how to get them out or do i just drill and retap them.thanks for the help. Ray
let me be alittle more clear i heated up the casting by head,not the bolt,pretty much red hot and they still broke.
if all else fails on the heads I've got a set of heads that came out of my 69 430. I have no use for them anymore. they have been powder-coated black and recently rebuilt....also never ran. as for a fix....the bolts that are still protruding from the casting, if you can try to drill them out slightly so there's a hole in them, put a nut on the stud and weld it all together. ive had great success with this. plus the heat from the weld kinda aids in the breaking loose aspect.you can do the same with the ones that are broken off flush....but it's a little trickier (TIG here is the preferred method). good luck either way.
Yeah, this is always a real pain when you try to get off original exhaust bolts. This is the reason I replace mine with stainless. If they still have some meat sticking out, I've had some luck with a pipe wrench (smaller one), after heating, soaking in penetrating oil, etc. I've had to take heads to a machine shop and have the bolts drilled out and re-tapped when they broke off flush with the head.
You say your tearing down the engine. I assume your going to rebuild it, so when you send the heads out to the machine shop, get them to do it. So much easier when the heads are off.
yep hes having someone rebuild it i just thought id give it a try,thanks for the offer on the heads,will see what happens with his,next is trying to figure out the receipe for the motor.hes looking for somewhere in the mid 12s he just wants to beat dad,Me.
If you are not good with broken fasteners, do not attempt it. The more “stuff” you break off in the broken bolts, the more exponential the cost to repair will go up.
X2 on the machine shop doing the work. MUCH more cost effective, and they have the correct equipment to do it!
Hey Gary if you don't mind me asking what method are you using to ship the engine to and from TSP and how much is it costing you?
Ahh good old road trip! Well if you find yourself passing by Wasaga Beach on your way down stop in for a beer
If you ship an engine look into "fastenal" they will ship large items from store to store for you. Also "Uship" is a good way to ship things, you basically put the job out for bid. I shipped a 350 and extra parts in total it was 600 pounds and it was only $22o
While I have purchased cars in the U.S. and brought them back to Canada, I've never brought an engine in. I have to research it a bit. It's only 2 days driving one way Montreal to Minnesota. I don't mind a bit of a road trip. Thanks for the info if I decide to bail on the trip.
Not sure exactly how it works but make sure you have some kind of documentation stating that it's going down for "repair work" that way when you go back to get it and are trying to bring it back over the border they wont hit you with duty charges as if it were a "purchase". I got hit with duty charges getting my sending unit shipped back to me after it went down for repairs because there was no documentation stating it was a repair item and not a new purchase. Lesson learned the hard way I guess
Are you talking about a fuel gauge sending unit? I had no trouble sourcing a new one for the Wildcat.
Yes. Nobody repops them for the 68-69 Rivs so you have to have them rebuilt. Even if you found a working original unit it's only a matter of time before it craps out and you're into sending it to Tri-Starr to have it rebuilt anyways.
If you send it USPS with a description as a “used auto part” you won’t pay any duty fees. Use Fedex and you will pay extra duty fees..