I'm in the process of wrapping up my disc conversion and have hit a snag with my brake lines. A little background, I have brand new Baer brakes up front and will be sticking with the factory rear drums (for now). I have a brand new master cylinder/booster/prop valve installed for the setup with a disc/drum combo valve. The problem comes from the new combo valve, as it is mounted on a bracket from the booster to the side of the master cylinder. As a result, none of my old lines will work with this new setup. I knew going in that I would have to run new lines for all of this to work and had planned on fabbing up my own. I don't really want to reuse any of the old lines regardless, as they have all seen better days. I have all of the proper tools to get the job done, but now that I'm here looking at it I'm starting to have second thoughts. Has anyone tackled this job without using the premade kits, or would I be better off biting the bullet and ordering a set? I'm not even sure which set to order since this is a retrofit with a non factory combo valve location. EDIT: These lines may fit, but I'm not sure: http://www.ss396.com/chevelle/C68DCKITSS.html I'm also wondering if I should even be attempting this without a lift, as it looks like a very daunting job. Has anybody paid a shop to install these before, and if so roughly how much did that run?
What year vehicle? When I did my 71 Skylark Custom, I was able to mount the prop valve in the same location as the original..under the booster, but mounted to the frame rail. I was able to tweak the original lines and they fit fine. Combo valve? I didn't use one. Maybe the original valve I removed, was a combo valve? Getting the lines attached to the new proportioning valve was the hardest part of the job. But if this fat ole man can do it, so can you.
I've only ever used genuine GM parts from donor cars when making drum to disc upgrades, so I can't really address your question, except to say that if you use all GM parts from a donor, they will all fit, no question.
Brian...What.did.you.use.to mount.the.Combo.Prop.Valve to.the.frame,where.the old.Dist.Block.was? Putting.front.discs.on.my.72. Thanks, Marty Sorry.for.the.periods... Ph.is.shot.
I wouldn't think it would be too crazy to have a shop do it.........I do full truck line replacements up here in ohio on say 2000ish chevy truck with copper nickel line for 500. I buy several rolls and just bend as needed to get it into the factory spots..........this is way more line than you will be running so I would imagine for 200-300 and that's being more than fair in my opinion
I used the copper nickel lines and some stainless gravel guard....super easy to bend to fit. I did hear they can turn green over time (copper) so I hit them with some flat clear coat to seal them a bit. I was so pleased I did the rear lines and the gas lines too. Buy the line on Amazon for half the cost of local parts store.
Brian just tweaked the drum lines a little. But he didn't say.what.he used.to.attach.the Combo.Valve.to.the.frame.
Just saw that this thread got resurrected - man how time flies. I did end up completing my 4 wheel disc conversion a few years back. I ended up installing a brand new set of lines from inline tube myself. I ordered a stock fitting set and only modified them by using some Eastwood brake tube bending pliers to sharpen the angles where the tubes loop around to connect to the master/prop valve. If I remember correctly, I think I used a set for a front disc car... The master was from Right Stuff Detailing. Its the type that has the combo valve mounted on a bracket just to the side of the master. I'm now using this setup with 4 wheel disc brakes (Baer kit) and it stops great.
