Boring 215 Build

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by M@, Jun 18, 2018.

  1. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Yes I would have the deck milled forsure
     
  2. M@

    M@ Member

    03DEAC8A-87D0-4618-9A8E-F9441844A1F2.jpeg I opened up the suction side of the oil system to 5/8. That doubles the area from the original 0.43” diameter. I’ve got to say I don’t recommend it. Everything turned out ok, but I’m concerned about how thin it must be. I’ll be doing some kind of pressure test to look for leaks or porosity. 1/2” would be 30% more area. If I wasn’t fearless I would have stopped there.

    I’m a bit worried about sealing the pump. There’s only 0.1” of an inch of gasket surface.

    Next I’ll be cleaning some of the casting waste in the lifter area.

    Should I worry about following any more of the bbb oil mods?

    At the bottom of the bores on one side there’s some core shift. It’s visible in the photo, but it’s hard to make out. I’ll get better pics. My shop doesn’t do sonic testing. I’m thinking about buying one of the cheap ones. Waste?


    Should I pull the freeze plugs and the plugs in the oil system?

    Thanks,
    Matt
     

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    300sbb_overkill likes this.
  3. Jim Blackwood

    Jim Blackwood Well-Known Member

    The cleaner you can get it the better, that applies to the water jackets and especially the oil passages.

    Just make sure to use sealant on both sides of the cover gasket around the suction passage.

    All the oil pump mods should be done, all the bearing clearancing work should be done. I have twice the recommended oil pressure with 10w30 oil and the stock oil pump. (Suction passage drilled to 9/16")

    Jim
     
  4. M@

    M@ Member

    Ugh. These plugs are ... beefy. Any tips?

    I’m worried about the oil plugs particularly.
     

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  5. M@

    M@ Member

    Here’s one.
     

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  6. M@

    M@ Member

    Got all 8. Using a slide hammer and some home made attachments for the hammer. Screws just didn’t cut it.
     

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  7. Jim Blackwood

    Jim Blackwood Well-Known Member

  8. woody1640

    woody1640 Well-Known Member

    I noticed on my engine that my rebuilder used a little gasket shellac on each freeze plug when he installed the new ones.


    Keith
     
  9. M@

    M@ Member

    I got the oil plugs out. Is there any reason I can’t tap these for an npt plug? I would feel better about the seal.

    I drilled out the supply passages from the pump to both oil galleys. 1/2”.

    I also cleaned up some of the casting in the lifter valley.

    Next step is to measure the piston to deck height so I can figure out how much I can remove to clean up the deck.

    Thanks for the advice,
    Matt
     

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  10. M@

    M@ Member

    Measured the following today:

    Head: 35cc
    Deck: 0.060”
    Piston dish: 14cc

    So it seems the motor was running 8:1 compression

    It’s good to know I have room to clean the deck up.

    Any advice for pistons? D and D have several dish sizes listed. Summit has some silvolite for 0.060” oversized. Not finding them anywhere else.

    Federal is the only undersized main I can find. Interestingly I can get them for $100 less at advanced vs Oreilly’s https://www.fmmotorparts.com/fmstor...s=1963&make=Buick&models=Skylark#.W3WqHtJKiUk
     

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    Last edited: Aug 16, 2018
  11. M@

    M@ Member

    PREPUBLISHED EDIT:
    I wrote the below and talked to Mark at DnD and now I think I should be looking for a new block. So... I guess that ends this thread, unless I decide to go against good advice.


    Below:

    So I'm reading that hydraulic lifters will pump at 6.5K and that the rover pistons will come apart at 6K.

    What's a safe limit with these other cast pistons like the https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-1718-060/overview/make/buick or

    My current plan is to deck off any material above the top of the pistons. Assuming that's 0.06" like the old pistons, that gets me to 9.23:1. Next I'll mill 0.04" off the heads. That gets me to something like 10:1. If the new pistons have will have a smaller dish like 6cc then I wouldn't need to mill the heads. In that case though I would probably take 0.04" off the deck and 0.02" off the heads to get a little cleaner surface for the head gasket.

    That sounds like enough to warrant new push rods. Thoughts?
     
  12. Jim Blackwood

    Jim Blackwood Well-Known Member

    If you are considering a different block you might want to think about the 300.

    Jim
     
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  13. M@

    M@ Member

    Yes. I passed on a well priced 215 today with a 300 or *gasp* LS swap in mind.

    Basically, I was hoping to keep the car near original, for a car that had a small fire. I just passed on the original block and have always been leaning away the original trans, which everyone hates. So I’m at the point of “it’s not gonna be original, I should just open the can of worms all the way.” There’s irony that the can or worms is literally the unibody’s trans tunnel.

    Your 300/340 build is inspirational, but unfortunatly I’m leaning heavily toward an LS because it’s so cheap and upgradable.

    I’m really having a hard time with it so I think this is going to sit until I can transcend my paralysis.
    Matt
     
  14. woody1640

    woody1640 Well-Known Member

    I have a nice spare 215 block if you need. It is a 62 if I remember correctly.

    There is a really nice aftermarket "stamped" tranny tunnel available, (listed to fit like 58 or 59 fords) that 2 of us from the facebook group have installed in our cars to make the tranny tunnels bigger. My tunnel turned out great. I can fit any tranny I want to in it.


    Keith
     
  15. Jim Blackwood

    Jim Blackwood Well-Known Member

    Well, one of the nice things about the 300 is that you can paint the block silver (or ceramic coat it if you can get the liquid still) and very few people would ever be able to tell it wasn't the 215.

    Also if you use the 2004r tranny it will also bolt right up to the LS.

    Jim
     
  16. woody1640

    woody1640 Well-Known Member

    [QUOTE

    Also if you use the 2004r tranny it will also bolt right up to the LS.

    [/QUOTE]


    I have heard a couple of guys say that the 2004r tranny will fit the 61-63 Y body tunnels with just a little "messaging" in a couple of spots. I did see pics of 1 installed a couple years back in a Y body car and it looked good but a snug fit for sure.

    Their are adapter plates available for the 215 to bolt the 2004r up with.


    Keith
     
  17. M@

    M@ Member

    I had forgotten about that ford tunnel. My intention was to find a 200r4 if I did the LS or the 300.

    I’ve even thought about a 455

    For me the LS is boring, but if I go that route I can save time on the motor that I need for the other fab work.

    I think the 300 pimped out the way Jim has his would make the car more fun, but then I’m scrounging around for rare parts and old iron. Instead of working on the fab stuff.

    At the end of the day nothing worthwhile is easy, but I don’t really have confidence I have the motivation to complete a motor build and then a bunch of fab work without losing interest.

    The whole time I was working on the 215 in the back of my mind I was on a tight rope. I feel like I would be in the same boat with the 300.

    Don’t worry though. I’m a mental surfer riding the waves. I’ll be checking for both on Craigslist. First good deal on either and I’ll be stepping back into the fray.

    Matt
     
  18. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Goodluck Matt, it would be helpful to yourself if in people knew where you are from to possibly offer up some help to you with a 300 or an "LS".

    Update your profile and we'll know.
     
  19. Jim Blackwood

    Jim Blackwood Well-Known Member

    With the LS you will almost certainly have to do custom work to do the swap. Exhaust at the very least. With the 300 it should be no different than the 215 aside from the 2004r transmission which is a very worthwhile switch. The two engines are nearly indistinguishable except for a 5/8" taller deck and the only thing that does is raise up the exhaust a little. I know of several MGB/300 conversions including a '69 with the stock hood. Unless someone told you you wouldn't know it wasn't a 215. But the performance you will get out of that engine tranny combo will make a believer out of you.

    Jim
     
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  20. M@

    M@ Member

    Thanks for the heads up on my profile. I fixed that. Springfield MO.

    The fire requires some significant fab to get anything back on the road. I need a new brake master new steering pump or power delete. New exhaust is happening. I’m going electric fuel pump.

    My plan was to ease into those changes a bit at a time after the motor build happened...

    I debated turbo 3.8 v6 for a bit too. I can actually find those I’m just not into the sound and I would rather run a carb. I did my time tuning with my 91 tbi. Didn’t like it. It worked, but I like the fun of carbs.

    Side note Jim clued me into the IS 350 which I might try to pick up and would derail this project. I love my 99LS400. Doubt the build quality of the iS holds up to the LS but damn it sounds like fun. So, you may be seeing my tendency to have too many irons in the fire.
     

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