Boosted Buicks Here!

Discussion in 'High Tech for Old Iron' started by sailbrd, Sep 24, 2010.

  1. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut Staff Member

    There are lots of great reviews around for the shockwave setup, here is one:

    http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0603phr_chevrolet_camaro_air_ride_shockwave_install/index.html

    PM this fellow, he seems to know what he is doing with the air bags...

    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=213961
     
  2. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

    Have the main unit off for some upgades and oil change.

    Storage tip:


    One thing I found out the hard way is to not let the bottles of replacement oil to sit on it's side while on the shelf.


    The bottles I have/had (three in a sealed bag) were laying on their side and one of the bottles the top became loose and it leaked into the bag.
     
  3. Nitro71455

    Nitro71455 Procharged 455 boost baby

    It's good to see there's so many people running blow through now.... It was a pretty lonely road 6 0r 7 years ago.....

    Very impressive numbers being posted.
     
  4. offbrand Racing

    offbrand Racing Platinum Level Contributor

    Hi Guys

    How are most of the boosted Buick's mounting there motors between the rails? I really want to use stock mounting points but also don't want carnage out of the gate. Thoughts/idea?

    Thanks,
     
  5. Bobb Makley

    Bobb Makley Well-Known Member

    I have 1/4 inch plates that run off each head I use all 3 bolts on the head then solid mounted at the block useing all 4 holes then a thin mid-plate.
     
  6. offbrand Racing

    offbrand Racing Platinum Level Contributor

    Bobb,

    Thanks...ugh...I want to use the stock mounting locations.......with my SC set up I don't have a way to use the drivers side head to bolt a plate too....

    Do you have a pic you would share?

    Regards,
     
  7. jay3000

    jay3000 Well-Known Member

    I bolted the two halves of the motor mount together with two grade 8 bolts on each side and locking nuts with the rubber sandwiched between. I then slightly modified the frame pad so the the mount would sit down flat. At idle is smooth as silk, because the rubber is still there. I have a cable on the drivers side as a backup from the PS pump bracket to the steering gearbox.. I'm sure you could be more creative with a welder. I gotta learn how to weld:spank:

    Making 1000HP though, I think I might want something more solid...
     
  8. Bobb Makley

    Bobb Makley Well-Known Member

    jim I went looking for a picture that would show you some thing but not really ever taken any that would show mounting of the engine to be honest. I found this one that shows the bottom of the drivers side. that plate is 1/4 inch and it is part of the total thickness needed to alighn the blower the other side is 1/2 and is used to mount alt and vacuum pump. the motor mounts are custom made by us for the car I did not move the engine from its stock location just used all the holes in the block to spread the load some. Don't know how much or if any value but there there why not use them. the mid plate is thin steel and mounts on the side of the frame rails. we built mounts once that tide the head and the motor mounts together and used the motor plate mounting location as the main mounting location but we did not use them on my car for some reason I don't remember why.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. macbuick

    macbuick David

    Hello,
    I have bought a ATI Procharger P-1SC to fit on my Buick 350ci engine (from XS Performance).
    I d like to know which camshaft and converter could suit the Procharger?

    Compression? 8.5:1
    Current Horsepower? stock +- 220 HP
    Desired Horsepower? with 500 i'm happy, with 600 grind on my face.. ;-)
    Redline (or shift point)? don't know yet +-5500
    Elevation : seal level
    Cam? ?? i found this,:TA c113?? ( .488" - 228'/ .493"-247' / 113 lobe) does it suits ?
    Intake Manifold? TA Performance
    Exhaust? TA Performance headers (ceramic coated) with Flowmaster 2.5" exhaust and Super 40 mufflers
    Cylinder Heads? stock but ported (perhaps bigger exhaust valve ) 3 angle valve seat job
    Carburetor? Quick Fuel 650CFM
    Fuel Octane? 98 or 95 but i don't know if it's the same value as you have in USA.... (some pump in Germany sell 102 )
    Converter ????


    - stock crank,
    - stock or better rods (still looking)
    - heavy duty pushrod
    - dual valve springs
    - poston roller rockers
    - hi-rev lifters
    - ARP head studs
    - Intercooler

    Thanks a lot for your help
    David
     
  10. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

    To answer your question with one phrase.

    Depends one what you are going to use the car for.


    Race only.

    Drive on weekends.

    Daily driver.

    ------------------------------------------------------------

    With a P-1 series, I don't think it is a race only.

    350 driver you should not go over 112 LSA and static compression of 9 to one.

    Converter is hard to come up with without knowing a few more things: the vacume the engine might produce at idle, the rear end ratio, and constant vehical speed it might produce.

    With a P-1 series 25% gain, I would think would be the best I would think it would produce in HP.
     
  11. macbuick

    macbuick David


    It will be a week end driver with little roadrace /track use.
     
  12. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Forget an off the shelf cam. Need to get a custom grind and it is not that much more money (if any.)

    PM me for that info.
     
  13. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

  14. jay3000

    jay3000 Well-Known Member

    For 350 rods, you have to have them custom made if you want anything other than stock..
     
  15. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

    Even after the new electric fuel pump all I can get is about seven pounds on the gauge before I get what sounds like a backfire in the intake.

    Been running these springs for three years now.

    Must be time for new valve springs.



    N/A was fine, middle of last year was fine, now no boost over seven pounds without the "backfire".
     
  16. Turbo455

    Turbo455 James

    It sounds like you have too big of a plug gap. Mine does the same thing at about 6 psi if my gap is two big.
     
  17. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut Staff Member

    To start with there is no reason you should be under 300 hp NA, and with a few psi 500 hp should be a cake walk. At that HP level I would not even take the bottom end of the engine appart unless it needed work. If possible use a 73-80 engine with the stronger connecting rods that they come with. Historically the Buick 350 rods from 73-80 have held to about 550 hp without an issue IF the rpms are kept under 6200.

    I went with forged Hershe rods for my turbo engine, they were $1200 however that is a lot less than an rod taking out the whole engine. Same with the Diamond pistons, worth every penny in my books.

    There are options for strong rods. Eagle makes a rod that only requires minimal machine work to work with a Buick 350 however custom pistons are required. This is really not a big deal though since forged pistons will have to be custom made anyways unless you fid the old TRW. PM me if you want the details on the eagle rods.

    Spend some cash having the heads ported well, and yes use the oversized valves if you want. Keep in mind some of the 75 and later heads have a larger exhaust valve stock so you can use stock late ex. valves.

    I would talk to Bobb from Finishline about your cam selection, he could help get you a custom ground version like his. They made a stroker 350 that was 420 hp NA however without the added stroke they would have still been about 390 hp with low compression.

    So there is no reason you could not make 300-350 hp with a stock bottom end and some head porting then have some real fun with boost:beers2:

    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=200499&highlight=procharger+350
     
    Julian likes this.
  18. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

    How much of a change did you make?

    I need to get a new set of plugs anyway.
     
  19. jay3000

    jay3000 Well-Known Member

    Spark is too weak or the gap is too big.. I'm running original stock 1972 vintage valve springs.. With who knows how many miles on them. I had the same problem when I was using a stock ignition and closed the gap to .025.. It was still marginal at best..I've upgraded the ignition, but I really don't want to take the plugs back if it's working. I was using aluminum dryer vent stuff for cold air and it kept turning it into a slinky... Boom!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  20. Turbo455

    Turbo455 James

    I went from .050 down to .025. Like jay says spark is to weak and is getting blown out.
     

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