Boosted Buicks Here!

Discussion in 'High Tech for Old Iron' started by sailbrd, Sep 24, 2010.

  1. Bobb Makley

    Bobb Makley Well-Known Member

    Ok Im back with the third installment. this one was built by my son with a little supervision from me.

    370 cu. sbb with 8.3 to 1 compression
    stock crank stroked
    yate's Honda rod journal 6.400 long rods
    wiscoe 3.8 turbo 30 over pistons
    custom hid. blower cam comp components built flm exclusive design
    new front cover
    9 key way timing chain
    stock heads with 1.900 1.6 exhaust valves with 11/32 stems ported by my son when he was 16
    Burton machine rocker conversion for use of Chevy rockers
    ta dual plane intake would have preferred a single plan.
    p1cs reverse rotation charger
    quick fuel blow thru on pump gas
    small air to air intercooler

    on the dyno it made 423 hp N/A we then added the charger with 3lbs of boost it jumped 550 something. I don't have the dyno sheets in front of me so I'm gong off memory and it was 14 engines ago. we than changed the pulley and bumped the boost to 6lbs and it jumped up to 630 hp. we were very happy for a street sbb for my kid and he did it himself.
  2. jay3000

    jay3000 Well-Known Member

    And for the most boring and docile of the boosted Buicks, and one that anyone can do, here is my build.. This is a build that can be done for not a huge amount of money and will provide hours of fun.. This is a driving around car that ANYONE can get in and drive anywhere. There is absolutely nothing special to do or know. It drives around like your mothers Skylark drove you to school back in the day, or your Grandmothers Skylark drove to church. It makes between 450 and 500 HP and at least as much torque as a 3 cylinder ford fiesta.

    Burton Machine twin turbo kit. .50 AR turbos (8psi springs)
    Burton Machine roller rocker conversion kit 1.6 RRs
    Home ported heads stock valve size
    650 Mighty Demon Blow Through
    72 Rebuilt 355 with stock bottom end
    26* timing locked
    Custom Crower cam - high lift- little overlap 114 * lobe seperation
    Aeromotive a-1000 w/ Mallory 4 port comp. regulator 1/2 feed and return
    3.73s with Yukon Dura grip and 2800 stall
    Hardened up Turbo 350 with red this and unbreakable that (lifetime warranty against breakage)
    Snow Alky injection 10 GPH
    325/50 drag radials
    Very quiet and smoooooth idle..

    With the exception of the tires, there are no outward signs that this car is
    able to get out of it's own way.

    Attached Files:

    Skippy597 and Julian like this.
  3. jay3000

    jay3000 Well-Known Member

    I get... "Is it running"
  4. Jim Blackwood

    Jim Blackwood Well-Known Member

    How 'bout a little old 340? Eaton M112 blower, air/liquid intercooler, EDIS ignition, Megasquirt EFI, Venolia pistons, Scat rods. Ok if that didn't start out far enough off the beaten path, next it gets weird. '64 aluminum 300 heads, moderate custom ground cam, 7" rods, 10.6 CR.

    Why? No particular reason, just trying something different. It'll have more power than my last build, reach a higher redline, should get better mileage and hold up better too. That's a win in my book.

    The last build? Even smaller. 215 with an M90 Eaton, experimental heat-pipe intercooler, same basic ign and efi setup, but I used the Olds version of the engine and a stock cam with 8:1 compression and 16+ psi of boost. I figured it was good for 300hp and in a 2400 lb car that was just about right. I mean that's like 450 in a 3600 lb car and for a daily driver that's good power. But the boost nibbled away at the edge of one of the stock cast pistons until the blowby eventually lit off and blew out the lifter valley cover and by then I was ready for an iron block. (better clamping of the head gasket) Besides, nobody else has ever put a 340 in an MGB, let alone a blown 340.

    There is just something about a blower motor that hooks you. Maybe it's the really wide power band, or maybe it's the just insane power increase that just goes like a rocket. Maybe it's knowing that power would just keep building until the whole thing turns to shrapnel. Or, maybe it's just the controllability. Whatever it is, there's no looking back. Biggest problem is that it takes time to build it and that means not driving it. So the plan is to be rolling next spring. Then I plan to go out and blow the doors off that 455 GT we built.

    Julian likes this.
  5. Justa350

    Justa350 I'm BACK!

    Wow really? Did you turn up the boost?
  6. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Steve, do you have a boost guage? My D-1 only does 5psi with a 4 inch pulley.
  7. Staged 1

    Staged 1 Buick 455 under pressure

    Yeah, I got a gauge. Like I said, I really have not pushed it too much. I have only stepped on it hard one time. When I got it, it had way too much timing and an aggressive curve at that. I have since redone all that. I just had a rocker shaft break and lost oil pressure. I shut it off before any damage occurred:beer .

    I really have no idea where the boost peaks. I only guessed at the 10 psi by
    reading posts from the guy who built it. I am trying to take baby steps since I don't know for sure what is in this thing. I have done a lot of work to it so far, but have a long way to go.
    I will be staying at the University plaza(Holiday inn) in Bowling Green if anyone wants to stop by. Here are a couple pics of the car as it sits now:laugh:

    Attached Files:

  8. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Nice clean setup. I think I may be the only one using a Procharger and has power steering. :grin: Sorry I am not going to be at bowling Green. Car looks really nice.
  9. offbrand Racing

    offbrand Racing Platinum Level Contributor


    Here are the spec's of my YSi blow 466. At 16.8 psi we made 1017 at 6300RPM. Looking to change blower pulley to bring boost down to 10 to 12 psi for the street and to help w/ the learning curve.

    76 455 Block- Cryo tempered, girdled, tall filled water jackets- 4.360 bore
    Crank- 76 455 Stocker, .020/.020
    Pistons- TSP/Diamond custom blower piston
    Rods- TA Sportsman Forged
    Compression Ratio- 8.0-1
    Cubic inch- 466
    Heads- Early TA STG 2 SE, 320/250 cfm at .500
    Oiling- all block mods, TA timing cover w/ HV pump, bypass line, SRE oil pan- 100+ psi oil pressure at rpm
    Cam- Custom TSP/TA solid blower grind- Idles @ 800 rpm with 12" Vacuum
    Valvetrain TA 1.65 Rollers- TA solid lifters, TA hardened pushrods
    Intake- TA SP-1 intake- ported
    Billet Timing chain
    SFI Romac balancer
    SFI JW flexplate
    Carb- CSU 850 cfm blow thru double pumper Holley
    Supercharger- Vortec V7 YSI blower, cog belt drive- putting out 16.8 psi boost at 6300 rpm
    Meth Injection- AIS injection system- dual nozzel, injecting before and after Supercharger
    Julian likes this.
  10. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

    Am I the only one that went to a manual valve body automatic?
  11. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Only a fool would ignore those tires. Of course its easy to find fools! :laugh:
  12. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Not here. I have a 200-4r. Will be rebuilding and changing converter next spring.
  13. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

    let me ask this then.

    What has everyone else done for the shifting of the transmission?
  14. Staged 1

    Staged 1 Buick 455 under pressure

    I am running a turbo 350. Will be installing a 2004R soon:grin:
  15. jay3000

    jay3000 Well-Known Member

    I just put my hardened up T-350 in D.
  16. alan

    alan High-tech Dinosaur

    I was shifting manually when the switch-pitch trans was installed. I may leave this one in Drive to see how it does.
  17. alan

    alan High-tech Dinosaur

  18. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

  19. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Shift light on the tach and push the lever when it goes on :laugh:

    I shift manually when racing the car. Even though it is a CZ code 200-4r it still only shifts at 5200 and not real consistant. Eventually will be back to 6000 rpm shifts. Will still have a drive mode in it when we rebuild. Thinking about an Extreme Automatics valve body with the rebuild to fix the downshift problems with the tranny (stock will shift down too far for big block car.)
  20. Turbo455

    Turbo455 James

    I am running a Th400 3000 stall switch pitch. I have a timer that is set at 1.8 seconds. This switches from high stall(3000) to low(600) stall at 1.8 sec after I release the foot brake. I have set my governor up to shift at 5000 rpm. With the big slicks it shifts at a bout 4900. Setting up the governor is easy to do and makes the transmission do what it is supposed to do. pull the four bolts on the passenger side of the trans and then slide out the governor then replace two springs then go test and repeat until you find the combo that gets the shift points you want. If you end up with a different shift point on the 1-2 and the 2-3 then change out the the two weights. Don't program governor unless you are sure the kickdown is activated or you will get inconsistent shift points. On the th350 it is the cable that is connected to the carb. On the th400 it is activated with a 12 volt wire on the driver side of the trans. On my bracket cars I use a toggle to lock the kickdown on. In the Skymaro I have a full throttle switch on the gas peddle. The function of the kickdown is to ignore engine vacuum and only look at rpm's.

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