Just an FYI foe everyone. Mallory has just intorduce their new "FireStorm" box. Does everything a Gen 7 EFI does except fuel. First it starts with a 150mj output, runs 10 different igntion systems, boost retard, fan control, Wideband O2, Nitrous control, infintely adjustable individual cyl and total spark control, no preset curves, and a host of other stuff. It was just introduced at SEMA and I've been doing further beta testing on this for over 2 months, neat piece.
That firestorm box is a hell of a unit for the price. I was just talking to the Mallory guys at the Turkey Rod run. They said it comes out in March.
I'm messing with my primary emulsions now. Being greedy about fuel curve control. With all my mods, it looks like my main jets are going to end up around a 58-60. It is so weird how little fuel it uses off boost. The modded emulsions and full annular swap support a LOT of flow from some small orifices! The weather is getting pretty cold though, so I'm not going to tune much more until Spring when it is warm again.
Just a quick thank you to all of you guys!!! I am a "fly on the wall" with a 1972 Skylark with a 350 that I plan to twin-turbo this year. I have learned sooooo much and I realize also that I have sooooo much to learn. Keep the info coming!!! Thanks for all your contributions to the Buick community!!! :3gears: :beer
Don't know how much you really learn. Boosted Buicks are just science fair projects and we keep track of each other to see who and how someone else blew up their stuff :laugh: So make sure to add your stuff here so we can have more entertainment.:3gears:
Mine's not a science fair project, it is a mad scientist's lab creation! Maybe this year (see my avatar phrase) I'll make it to the fair!
Took mine a couple of weeks ago to a 1/8 mile track and got a 7.14 ET. I know that there is a six second pass in it. I just took it off the trailer and run it. BTW- It is Procharged BBB 464ci.
i had a set of full length headers and they hung a little low, i kept rubbing the concrete when i would drive the car into the garage from the driveway(driveway is sloped)and i just got tired of rubbing. I like the keep it simple stupid way but i wanted to try the rear mount and try a front mount. i think the rear mount worked very nice and for people without the room i would say go for it. I was going to make another set of headers so the exhaust wouldnt rub so i figured i would mount the turbo up front. thier is def some pro's to having it up front. you dont have to run all your intake tubing under the car, no oil return pump or lines, that was nice to get rid of under the car. the cons, more heat under the hood to me is the biggest. i am using techline coating and a turbo blanket so i am hoping not to much heat. i am worried about a fiberglass hood just because of warping it. i think i might run a steel hood and cutout for the carb hat like they used to due for the blower cars. Paul 66larkgs turbo 401 Paul 66larkgs
I was wondering what people are also using for gauges for monitoring their boosted systems. What brand and model number would be nice. Mark just finished up my turbo kit and I am working on gathering the other parts. I assume most are using wideband O2, what about boost, fuel pressure, exhaust temp gauges? Any others? Were are the mounting points for each too?
For the 02 I am using this kit, it is simple and cost effective. I will just have a bung in each collector about 12" down from the turbo and I will swap the 02 sensor from one side to the other to see how each bank is doing. You can also buy a spare sensor and leave it in then you just have to swap the wire from one to the other: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/....html?osCsid=7b8b57816141e023b28ff228e23310ad To go with this I will use the add on cord to supply the RPM to the LM-1 wideband that way I can see on the computer what the rpm was when I was at a certain air fuel ratio. Otherwise if you are trying to review the air/fuel ratio info at a later date you can not tell what rpm you were at and then it is hard to know what to do to correct the issue. For the exhaust temp, I am adding a bung in each collector and one in each downpipe then I can swap it where ever I want to trouble shoot or confirm that each cylinder is happy. http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/aem...hopping&utm_medium=Nextag&utm_campaign=Nextag I am also going to add a Throttle position sensor so I can see what my throttle position was at the time as well, this will really help the tuning of the carb. I am using a megasquirt computer to data log everything from coolant temp, intake temp, exhaust temp, manifold pressure, vacuum, fuel pressure, etc however a lot of this is extra info that I do not really need... I just want it.
OK so let me throw my novice hat into the ring and ask this silly question....if one was at a juncture where NA or blow thru carb would be considered is there one that "could" do both? Or at least work NA until the turbo could be completed? Inquiring minds and all that... Scott
I am going with a regular Holley 750 CFM carb and having Mark do the blow through mods to it. The Holley style mechanical secondary carbs are fine when NA and not too hard to convert to blow through. Or you can order the CSU or Quickfuel blow through carbs. Both these companies will custom build you a carb for not much more than regular price. Avoid the Barry grant blow through carbs as they have a bad rep. In general they say to go a bit small on the CFM for blow through application since a carb can flow double it's rated CFM when under 15 PSI of boost. This is why you may see a 1500 HP boosted Big block with a 750-850 CFM carb.
Yep, just buy a Quickfuel, or BG blowthrough carb and tune it for naturally aspirated. Remember that most of what supports additional fuel for boost is the increase in fuel pressure supplied by a boost referenced fuel system. No boost= no pressure increase, and the carb will function normally.
With QuickFuel BAN carbs you will find the power valve restriction to be a bit fat. So wide open throttle could be rich. In general you will just have to tune as everyone says. Expect to jet the mains down quite a bit. As said before you should go to a smaller carb. I went from a custom ported 950 Bigs to a 650 Quickfuel. In NA mode that is pretty small but does not cause any problems.
I'd try and richen it up a bit more at WOT. I always shoot for 11.2 to 11.5 just play on the safe side. 11.8 IMO is right on the fence of being lean under boost.
