Block/Block Preparation for Procharger

Discussion in 'High Tech for Old Iron' started by dr, Dec 16, 2016.

  1. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    I'm curious and intrigued by Pochargers.
    I have next to no knowledge of prochargers but building a street able 10 sec motor that I can drive on pump gas is amazing and
    I understand money and a lot off it is a requirement, that aside what does one have to do?
    Block Filled 1/2?
    Girdle?
    Special crank needed?
    Compression 8-9-1?
    What rods are recommended?
    I work on glacial time scale. I would take me a few years to scrape the cash together, but hey what the hell.
    I read all threads with the "procharger" and found this one: : Can a BBB survive a procharger? What will it take? http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...harger-What-will-it-take&highlight=procharger
     
  2. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    First off, a solid NA setup can go 10's and be street driven daily if one wishes. But for the wow factor and ease of making power Procharger is a good way to go. Here is my take on what you need to get it done and or the way I would go about it.

    1.72-76 block with Halo girdle and the new Molnar rods.
    2. Wiesco,Diamond,JE piston IE a good piston
    2a. Stock crank
    3.Compression 9.5 to 10.1 for 650/700hp you could even set it lower if you like 8.8 to 1 maybe
    4.Heads, do what budget will allow I would definitely do aluminum even if they are box stock
    5.cam either custom ground or something with a 112-115lsa and a decent amount of duration.
    6.Carb if you choose to use one have it prepped or buy straight from Horsepower innovations, CSU or C&S
    7.Carb Hat Extreme Velocity, Procharger Pro or CSU
    8.Fuel pump A1000 and 13202 reg with -10 feed and -8 or even -10 return
    9.Intercooler or Meth injection would be good insurance if on 93 pump gas, I would do an AIS or Razor meth setup myself. As it's easier, cleaner looking and obviously won't block airflow to the radiator
    10. Ignition just needs to be some sort of hot box with a locked distributor at around 28 or a boost sensing box is good too.
    11.BOV Jodar,Tial or Turbosmart is fine no need for the $450 Big red unless you just want it.
    12.the kit from "the supercharger store" or have Rob at Precision Billet make you a bracket and you source the head unit and pulleys.
    13. For the headunit and your goals ID go with a D1 they are easy to find used or even reman-ed.
    14. Good converter I went with UCC on my build
    15. All the obvious stuff fuel lines,gauges, headers etc et

    Make sure the fuel system is up to the challenge. A 425hp base engine will be needed to run 10's with a low boost level which makes life easier, one could get a pretty much stock engine in the 10's but would need a good bit of boost.
     
  3. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    My head is spinning!!!!!:grin:
    You can PM me the answer but assuming looking at your list you have 1-5 or 6 (I have a quick fuel carb.) what is the cost? I assumed $8,000.
     
  4. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

    The first thing to answer is how much boost are you wanting to run ?

    Expect to spend at least $6000.00 on it to get it up and running. More getting it fine tuned.

    Stock head gaskets go with no more than 8.8 to one compression and 5 PSI boost

    If going over 8.8 to one then use Comedic gaskets.

    Street driven car ? 1/2 fill is not recommended, but if you do that an oil cooler and an oil temperature gauge will be needed.

    If going over 7 PSI and/or 6000 RPMs then mods will need to be done to the block for it to live.

    Let me know if you need help with it. I don't have any parts on hand anymore as I gave everything to Bobb when I sold him the car.
     
  5. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    I'm going to start to look for parts at a snails pace. Things like rods and pistons. But some day get more serious.
     
  6. pmuller9

    pmuller9 Well-Known Member

    Pistons are last!
    The cylinder head chamber volume differs depending on which head is chosen for the project and that volume needs to be known in order to figure out how much volume is needed in the piston dish to get the correct compression ratio.

    Purchasing the rods now is OK

    The first thing is to find a block since they are getting harder to find as time goes on.
    If you happen to come across a 430 block for around $100, grab it.
    The 430 block can be bored to 4.250" and still have thicker cylinder walls that the 455 block providing the is very little core shift.

    Here are the links to the Vortec Supercharger BBB Jim Weise put together.
    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?213591-1000-HP-Supercharged-BBB
    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?221832-Supercharged-motor-update
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2016
    Harlockssx likes this.
  7. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Paul!! Its good to see you back posting again, I was getting worried that something happened to you and I was thinking of sending you a PM to make sure you're OK. Welcome back!








    Derek
     
  8. pmuller9

    pmuller9 Well-Known Member

    Thanks Derek
    I've just been watching and didn't have anything that I wanted to add.
    Paul
     
  9. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    I saw on another related thread someone posted the 430 option (may have been you) Good idea. Agree pistons last.
     
  10. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut Staff Member

    I also like the 430 block idea and use a fill girdle you will need it.
     
  11. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    Sean do you mean partial fill the block plus a girdle?
     
  12. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Looks like he hit the "I" instead of the "U", I believe he meant to write "full" girdle, which would be a good idea to use for a boosted app.





    Derek
     
  13. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Girdle not needed for anything under 700hp and 6500rpm, especially with boost it loads the block much different.

    A halo is easy enough to do and certainly would be great insurance as would main studs and a half fill. Coupled with nice rods and I wouldn't loose a moment's sleep with 700hp
     
    Chef likes this.
  14. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    I do not know what a halo is.
    My understanding is 1/2 filled is fine on street when coupled with Aluminum heads.
     
  15. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Halo goes on top of the main caps only it ties all of them together, whereas a full girdle does that and the panrails , but requires cutting a good bit of the caps away
     
  16. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    Thinking about this procharger stuff again: How much boost do you run before things get weird? Assume sub 700HP and RPM's around 6,000.
     
  17. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    The boost # isn't what gets you it's the HP and rpm, what are the engine particulars now ? Or is there an engine in the equation yet?
     
  18. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    No engine yet or sort of kind of.
    I plan to run my current combo this summer. Street/Stripe car should be in the 11's. The local track (30 miles one way) is opening again after being down for years. I plan to over the winter 2017-18 to get a procharger and use my existing block. Provided I make enough money on side jobs. (welding)
    I get these crazy thoughts, I'm a restless soul.
     
  19. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Nothing wrong with that that's what keeps our hobby alive, if you build off the engine that will be in service, just make sure you know the true compression so you can know where your at whe n the blower finds its way on there, that will dictate alot of parameters
     
  20. pmuller9

    pmuller9 Well-Known Member

    What is your current combo?
    What would be your power goal with a procharger?

    Paul
     

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