I'm thinking after what you guys have said, maybe setting 74 will help and not be too much total over 2900rpm Cheers
So you are running at 20* of timing. No wonder it is running hot. I'd want double that with E85. I run my engine at around 44* of timing. (34* total + 10* vacuum advance) on the highway. You need to put a timing light on the engine and verify the timing. The way you have it set up now, does the 9* come in all at once at 3800, or does it ramp in earlier. 3800 is too late IMO. You want it in earlier. From that chart you posted, it looks like 2900 is the earliest.
It may not want 34*, or it may want more. Trap speed at the track, or a chassis dyno will tell you. There is no vacuum advance on your distributor to give it more advance at light load highway cruising. That's too bad because the engine certainly will want more. It would be interesting to give it a total up around 40* and just cruise like that (don't hammer it). See how it feels and if it runs cooler.
On the dyno it didnt gain any over 30' total. I know the engine behaves different on the street so I will try giving it more and earlier. Thanks for the advice Cheers
The only way to know what advance is going to work best...is to experiment. Assuming you have no detonation now, I'd increase the amount of advance in stages so that you work up to #60--20 degrees @3200 rpm. This gives you 40 degrees of total advance, and somewhat quicker than what you have now. Listen for ping or any other sign of detonation under all the various kinds of operation (light throttle, heavy throttle, steady-speed, engine hot, engine cold, etc.) Look also for flecks on the spark plugs. Also keep an eye on engine temperature. The point being to both speed-up the advance, and to add more. When you get to detonation, slow the curve, or reduce the amount of advance. If you add more advance, and the engine doesn't increase in power/responsiveness, you've got just a little too much--or too fast. If they offer some sort of MAP sensor/vacuum advance substitute as an option, grab it. Dial in the heavy-throttle advance with the existing curve, then play with the vacuum advance substitute under light throttle. [EDIT]So the dyno tells you there's no gain after 30 degrees? Not what I expected. Even so, you can play around, maybe bring it in faster. See what happens, but WATCH FOR DETONATION.[/EDIT]
A1 converter stalling at 5400. It's a light car at 3000lb and it's a great tight converter. The car will idle away on the converter, but smash the throttle, and it will flash to 5000rpm plus Cheers
if it's mostly race i wouldn't worry about your timing curve below 3800 with that converter. when it's go time the engine isn't ever operating at that rpm. part throttle response will be better, but that converter must be really loose at below 3500. unless it's a lock up. qq also 2.75s were probably too high. I'm sure the motor is still lumping about at 2200 rpm and running inefficient. your millage probably would have been better with 3.23 or 3.42s. I'd wager it would run cooler with more rpm. to be clear, its awesome you drove it!
Joe, I could never get it to run cool with the 3.25:1 gears I had in it before. Engine oil would get too hot. It is really quite smooth at low (2000-2500rpm) with no jerking or complaining. Just been battling temp Cheers
Spoke to my engine guy when I picked up more oil and carb gaskets. He said just lock it at 30' and see how it goes Cheers
