I have a separate thread about increasing the area under the curve: http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/increasing-area-under-the-curve-torque.340024/ In that thread I start down the path of boosting however I realized there isn't (that I've found recently) a simple recipe thread for those looking for a 455 to push 500HP /___Torque. The TR guys are detailed with recipes, this site not so much... Where might I find such a recipe? I know years ago Jim Weise posted up a pump gas late model 455 pushing 500HP for a big car. I would like the information to do something similar as an alternative to boost. Frankly, Im just not sure what direction to go yet, Boost or NA. I do assume the obvious, heads and intake would need to be touched for the NA route. Here is where I am at: 1970 455 - refreshed in 2000/2001 currently setup. street/road/cruise car. Stock bore Stock stroke ( I seem to recall rod bearings being .010 over because of a spin forcing the rebuild.) Stock intake Stock heads Stock coil Stock dist Stock QJet Stock (new like stock) hydraulic lifters TA Stg1 Cam (210* IN / 276* EX / 113* lobe separation) Stock Exhaust Manf TA 2 1/2" exhaust with dynoflow mufflers not that it matter much but I did complete a serpentine setup. The rest of the drive train Trans: 4L80e Rear g/r 3.42:1 Lets assume I buy: TA_STAGE_1SE-A (http://www.taperformance.com/products.asp?cat=420) with like stock Stg1 diameter valve stems etc What intake could I use? - The Riviera has less under-hood head space so an SP1 intake may not work idk. Carb: leave it the stock 750 CFM QJet properly tuned Exhaust Manf - stock. Put in a hotter coil for Spark. Is the above ludicrous? Where would the biggest power limiter be? What would be the guess on the power output with this setup? If you do have a 500hp recipe please share. Im left to wander in my thoughts on the most cost practical way to get more power out of this machine. At times a $700 5.3 LS w/ boost seems more...<shakes head>...what am I thinking!? Would prefer to keep as Buick as possible. Share your recipe pls...
are you sure you can't use the sp1 with the correct drop base? 500hp from our motors isnt hard today. if running the aluminum heads you can run compression ration ratio closer to 11:1. biggest thing is to get the correct cam thst will run you power brakes. you might thing of stepping up to a roller cam setup to make this work out http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/interesting-street-motor-comparison.341334/#post-2885872 these both had ported heads, but in non ported form I'm sure they would be well over 500. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/new-482-shortblock.334144/page-2#post-2886830 here is one for sale ready to go
You'll want to be careful pushing stock rods over 500hp. You'll find money spent on heads and intake will get you the biggest gains.
With our level 2 porting in the SE STG 1 heads, I have built this combo many times.. It will take shorty headers to reach that 500 number. Dual plane manifold recommended for a big car, your not looking to push the torque peak up. I have two cams that have done it: Hyd roller in the 215/225 range at .050, you won't know it has a cam in it.. smooth idle. Flat tappet in the 225/235 range at .050, just barely can hear that one. Q-jet, 10.3-1 compression, nothing too tricky here, it's all about the heads. JW
You need good heads, simple as that. Nothing else is as important. Without that, you will not get to 500 HP without destroying the driveability (big cam)
With ARP bolts rods are good for a lot more....my low 10sec 3700lb GS has stock forged rods making probably 650hp....and 600+ passes since I've seen them....
Agree, stock rods are very capable. I myself won't use them anymore in the future due simply because Molnar and Eagle both have plug and at rods with the buick offset. But if stock rods have a limit it's not 500hp more like 650/700 with moderate rpm
Rod choice comes down to budget restrictions these days.. If you don't mind spending a bit more, build a 470/482 with good rods, going to be easier to make your power goals, and only cost you about $500-600 more than a 464 with stock rods. The extra cost is offset by less expensive rod bearings, and you have a huge selection of bearings available now in undersizes all the way to .050. I think there is several hundred dollars worth of value in extra cubes and bulletproof aftermarket rods. What used to require spending thousands of dollars on custom parts, is these days just a few c notes extra, and ordering the right parts. The stuff is available. Nice to have choices. JW
Just finished an engine for Greg Davidian like your asking about, TA Stage 1 SE heads, level 1 porting. Edelbrock performer. 750 QJ. TA 4.315 bore JE pistons 10.10:1 compression spec'ed out be me, not a shelf part. TA1633 forged replacement rods, TA Stage 1 hyd cam like yours, TA replacement stock rockers. Greg wanted NO valve train noise, almost smooth idle, this cam has very little lope. Stock exhaust manifolds. Modeled HP output is just over 500hp. Cylinder heads are important. Greg is on facebook somewhere
i have 10.15 to 1 compression b4b intake TA stage 1 se heads (out of the box) ta shorty headers 800 carb scotty brown 212 cam installed straight up recurved dist all in @2300 34 degrees all in stock rockers 2500 stall converter in a 70 wildcat best 13.008@103.90 estimated at 500 crank hp scott
not to hijack this thread but ...... what is the recipe for a 482 i just bought some ported stage 2 heads and am going to build something scott
http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/482-rods-now-available.324448/ http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/new-470-482-piston-options.324745/ Offset grind the rod pin to 2.1 which gives you a 4.05 stroke. Use a custom Diamond or Autotec piston at 4.350 bore, and you have a 482. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/interesting-street-motor-comparison.341334/ http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/some-dyno-numbers.338480/
mmmk, Firing up this thread again because I just landed a clean '73 block std bore very little core shift, good 71 heads, std crank, standard intake. Now what to do, and still considering a turbo option. Life gets easier now that I have a block, heads and intake to mock up. This guy that I purchased from is a machinist, runs an engine dyno, and runs a stock '71 GS, has a dyno in house and was simply selling some of his Buick stuff. He claims > 500HP/500TQ see clip below. I don't know why he put the advertised HP in the title. The description has the numbers he claimed. Depending on how fast he goes this season he said he'll be selling all his Buick stuff including his '71 GS 455 and return to the bowtie. "1971 Buick 315 HP 455 NHRA stocker, G/SA F/SA. 10.69 compression, hyd .398/.466/108, 2.009 intake valve, 1.625 Exhaust, factory cast iron 403 intake, factory Q-Jet. 531 HP 592 TQ."
I sent an email asking more specifics on the engine combo. I did see the specific block and heads he used because he's doing a rebuild. It looked like he is using standard valves- he even stated it multiple times. He also claimed that the head cambers on '71 heads are the best all-round. (I have no empirical data to argue with a man that owns a machine shop and clearly was passionate about telling me this) His heads were right in front of me with the heads I bought and he had all nice new shiny valve to install - the size looked identical in size to mine and there was plenty of material between in & ex - I didn't whip out a micrometer so sure maybe they are bigger. I did not pay attention as to whether he ported the heads and intake. The cam he is running was on a balancing machine, he claims that most Buick cams are roughly 7g out of balance. I wasn't very organized in my questioning since I was trying to get the parts and avoid rush hour traffic. But, his info is in the Vid. and work (maybe owns) the Vortecpro shop in Colorado Springs.
Small valves can still do the job - my car is a high 12 second car with small valve virgin heads..not even bowl work...
You'll not attain 500 hp with stock iron heads that at best flow 219 Intake cfm @ .650" lift , nor with that Cam. To get those hp numbers without dealing with a unstreetable Cam and inturn a narrow power band that starts way up at 4000 rpm you need reworked heads that flow 260 to 270 cfm@38" at .600" lift and then run a Cam that gives .540" lift at the valve. Also top that all off with 9.4 compression and your there with a bit of power to spare!
