Battery tests good, goes dead in 24hrs, only .5mA parasitic draw?

You must know this guy...

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/7jo_x7ecIFg?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

dad !!!!

 

Hitchhikers guide to the Galaxy?

 

Pass code to the pool at the Holiday Inn...


Any one ever see the difference between a 1972 USA and Canadian Shop manual. I found a Can. job but don't wanna blow money on something that wont work for me. The description says its in a bit more plain language and better illustrations. Bill in TR

 

indubitably :Smarty:

 

Can anyone recommend a good brand of voltage regulator? I'm running a 1970 Buick Skylark 350. I'm having the same issue with my battery dying when I leave it connected. I'm thinking it's the regulator or alternator.

 

Go to an Auto Parts store such as NAPA, they'll have one.

 

I was in the same situation even after having my alternator rebuilt.
I bought a quick disconnect switch best thing I ever did.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...ocraft_6280536-p?searchTerm=battey+disconnect

 

When doing an amp draw test with a meter that only has a single digit after the decimal point when set on amps or ma. that number is multiplied by 100 so a .5 amp or .5 ma draw is 500 ma. or 1/2 amp. An amp meter like a fluke 88 will give you 4 digits after the decimal point or up to 1000ma = 1 amp. A 500 ma draw will drain a battery in 24 hours if the reserve capacity of the battery is low. Reserve capacity is the length of time a battery will stay above 10v with the engine running and minimal load, to drive the vehicle down the road when the alternator is not charging., :TU: Jim C

 

Well SHAZAMM.... Got the old KLEIN cutters warmed up and did some cuttin'. I changed out the OEM externally regulated alternator with an internal job. Bypassed the firewall regulator altogether, and merely had to use a "keyed hot" wire to the new unit plus the big red wire to the battery (starter post). Ill be dippity dogged if the new unit doesn't put out 14.2+ at idle and no sign of a ground when I check the connections with the Fluke. Straightened out a bunch of bogus wiring under the hood and have now moved on to the dash bezel job and shifter cable replacement. Seems the PO used a chevelle cable system from the console and ALL associated stuff was wrong for the Buick... the shifter BARELY worked... ws

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqWD-qYgnhU

 

Somewhere around the beginning of this thread, I interjected the drain caused by the quartz clock was leading me to believe it drew 1amp. In conclusion it was found that the alternator had an internal ground which has since been corrected. The clock in my hands shows a .005 amp requirement; and itll run backwards too! ws

 

Glad to hear you found such an elusive "needle in the haystack" issue. I am most interested in the previous comment about Optima batteries being junk. Mine drains done in a couple of weeks which it really should not.

BTW, your calculus equations are correct for 3 phase alternating current. I believe the alternator is single phase AC rectified through a full wave diode bridge to DC. Take away a couple of integrals.:Smarty: .